My First Explorer, 2000 EB

[gmanpaint]

Why not just get a 2" kit? If you want another 1/8", just add a 1/2" fender washer.

 

[traveler]

There is no 2" kit that I'm aware of. You're right I could have ordered 2" blocks. I may do that anyway and sell the 3" blocks. Either way I'd still have to order the correct length bolts.

 

[traveler]

Starting on the body lift. Got the front bumper and grill guard off, working under the hood looking for things that need to be loosened/removed. I am confident I can do it, but sure wish there was someone here with me who has done it before! I'm only going 2 3/16" so shouldn't need as much work as a full 3". Have realized already that my previous mods may make it more difficult. Off the top of my head the transmission cooler may need to be moved, the rear bumper has the 7-pin plug mounted in it (not below it, not to it... In it). Also have realized I HATE messing with the radiator LoL. Gotta figure out a way to cut the fan shroud without removing it. Also hate screwing with the interior. Whenever a plastic piece is moved it never goes back as securely as it was. But hey... It's just an old truck, right?
May not have been the best time to do this. Sandi is already testy due to quaranteen(so?), and now I've commandeered the carport! I'll keep you posted on that. Hehe

 

[traveler]

Well... Problem 1) broke the head off of the driver's side front body to frame bolt. Hoping that I can get it out some other way.

 

[traveler]

Well, I finally got the driver's side spacers in. The front body bolt (driver's side) was giving me fits. I used a borrowed sawsall on it, went through 3 batteries and it still wouldn't budge. But couldn't see what was holding it. The nut was off the top, the body should have come up. Went to harbor freight, bought a cheap sawsall and a 12 ton bottle Jack and began slowly raising the driver's side. Eventually the body separated from the frame and I was able to pull what was left of the front bushing out. (The sawsall is still in the unopened box) I replaced it with a bushing from an F-150 (or maybe an Expedition) after some mild modification to make the bushing fit in the hole in the frame. Plus side, the new bushing didn't need to be drilled. So now... On the other side.

 

[traveler]

Ok, all the spacers are in, new bolts in place and tightened. Now on the the fun task of putting everything back together, finding things that just don't quite reach anymore or things that reach but need a little more slack, ya know the PIA stuff. Then I can move the truck to the backyard and begin the bumper bracket fabrication.
But first a PSA. If you're doing this lift indoors, or under a cover (carport), and you have a spare tire on the roof, make sure you can get it out the door after you're done. Don't ask how I know... Now, is it best to deflate the tires and back out, or remove the spare.

 

[traveler]

Quick opinion poll... Based on the pic, will the spare fit under the beam to the right? Hmmmm....

 

[CDW6212R]

How close is it, you might gain 1/2" to an inch by letting air out of the tires. But it'll be most of the air, so expect a long refill if you have a basic small air pump.

 

[traveler]

I backed out real slow. Cleared by fractions of an inch. But it did clear. I drove it around the block to the alley to put it in the back yard and discovered I had just nicked a transmission line when I was trimming the fan shroud. Easy fix but reminded me of all those hospital shows my wife and I watch where the surgeon causes havoc when they Nick something. LoL
Other than the Nick, everything works. Just gotta get that bumpers on. And I might move the tranny cooler up and back while I have the room to work and I'm working on the lines anyway

 

[traveler]

Ok, while laying under the truck studying the trans leak I noticed that now, the radiator, trans cooler, and AC condenser are all pretty much flush with the bottom of the frame rails. Made me wonder if a simple steel plate running from one rail to the other might be a good idea... To prepare for that should I go ahead with it, I moved all the tranission lines up and out of the way.

And I believe that is all for today.

 

[gmanpaint]

At one time, before I installed the front skid plate, I temporarily used a tcase skid from rail to rail to protect the lines.

All that little stuff adds up. Lol

Might want to swap them wire nuts on your fan wires, with some weather packs too. They are a bit more exposed now.

 

[traveler]

LoL I knew you'd see those. Those are watertight underneath the wirenuts. Been through streams and thunderstorms with them. I thought of a tcase skid plate. I've got an extra, so I'm gonna try it tomorrow and see how it fits.

 

[traveler]

Well the front is done. I'm going to get the rear bumper put on and then maybe work on that skid plate I mentioned. Front was easier than I anticipated.

 

[traveler]

A discerning eye will notice that it isn't perfectly level. But I'll take it for now. I'm beat! Now just gotta clean up the mess and put away the tools... Always hate that part

 

[traveler]

Tomorrow's project...
Mount F-150 front tow hooks to the rear of my Explorer. Always bugged that Ford made a tow hooks for the left side of the explorer but not the right. Found these at a pick a part and discovered they'll bolt right to the frame once the body lift is done. The pick you see is just a test fit using a hole already in the frame. Sadly there is only one hole, and where there should be another hole is a big rivet. So I need to move the hook 1" (app) toward the rear and drill 2 holes on each side. After the past week that'll be a cake walk!

 

[gmanpaint]

That factory bolt hole is for the hitch.

Placing the hook to that location might bend the frame when pulled on.

Using a hitch as a tow point, is a safer option. Now that you have the body lift, you can modify a hitch bar, to fit snugly up right under the bumper.

I did that on the 94. Cut the tube off the side mounts, flipped the tube, and welded the side mounts back on.

The hitches are made to drop 3" to clear the bumper. Doing the flip, raises the tube by 6". Now it is attached to both frame rails, and is safer to pull on.

 

[traveler]

Got the bumpers attached, the tow hooks on (put lots of extra steel on either side of all mounting points) lookin good. Got in it to move it and the driver's seat broke. The back just gave way and I found myself leaning back gangsta style. So I have to ask, will Ranger seats fit? What are my options for replacements?

 

[traveler]

Found the problem with the seat. Broken seat back bolt. Having done some reading I believe this is a common problem, common enough to have a recall. So, I'm off to the salvage yard to swipe some seat bolts. Pretty sure Ford doesn't carry them for a 20 year old truck.

 

[gmanpaint]

Always something!!
Glad ya figured it out.

 

[traveler]

For those that have been wondering (heck even those that haven't) I got the seat fixed. Went to the pick a part, paid my 3 bucks to get in, pulled a couple bolts from a couple worn out seats, and walked out just as they closed. Seat is now fully functional.
Now just have some rewiring to do. For some reason my left fog light isn't working, and my trailer plug isn't working.... As has been stated, if it isn't one thing it's another...