My First Explorer, 2000 EB | Page 18 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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My First Explorer, 2000 EB

As per the instructions above here's the info:
2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0
I'm from Parsons KS and you can contact me easily through a PM here.

Well, they aren't good pics. They were provided by the seller using a cell phone. But this is my 2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition. I am going to "visit" it today at the sellers house and pull the radiator. My next day off I get to install a new one (would do them both today, but had to order the radiator). Jon (Turdle) has already provided me with the link to the radiator replacement thread. (Thanks again Jon)

Mods will be slow due to funding and the need to finish putting an engine in my other vehicle (seen below). Probably just go with exhaust and slightly more aggresive tires when funds allow. Any suggestions for basic upgrades? LOL I'm a seasoned Veteran with Thunderbirds, but a newbie with Explorers.

Explorer01.jpg


Explorer02.jpg


Explorer03.jpg


Explorer04.jpg


Explorer05.jpg


Explorer06.jpg


Explorer07.jpg


My other vehicle can be seen here:

GT_Touched_SM.jpg
 


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traveler

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Got to thinking about it and decided that the fender flares needed to be "tied together" from a design/color standpoint. The way they were with the big running boards. So got some duplicolor paint, some sandpaper, some masking tape and....

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traveler

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We'll Little Eddie decided he didn't want to pull the camper all the way to Ouray. Last minute the brake controller failed and I had to take the Expedition. So now I'm working on that. I've got a Tekonsha Voyager, I'm assuming that the green light on it should only be on when the trailer is plugged in. It's on all the time now, ignition on or off. As the problem is the brakes being on all the time I'm guessing the two are related.
So having said all that... Did the 2000 Explorers with the towing package come with plug and play wiring like the newer models (for example my expedition) or am I going to have to wire a new one in?
 




gmanpaint

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More than likely wire it in.

Mine stays lit 24/7 on the unit. When the trailer gets plugged in, the letter C lights up for connected. Little different unit, but I'm thinking the led versions all do it. I could he wrong. See if you can find a YouTube video of yours.
 




traveler

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From what I've looked up, the green light is only supposed to come on when the trailer is plugged in. Mine is on all time, ignition on, ignition off, trailer on, trailer off. It went off when I snipped the blue brake light wire.
I'll take it in for a bench test tomorrow. If it fails I get another one, if it passes I need to find a bad connection in the wiring.
 




timtimtimajim

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I've got a Tekonsha Voyager, I'm assuming that the green light on it should only be on when the trailer is plugged in. It's on all the time now, ignition on or off.
You are correct! The LED lights up green when the trailer is connected and turns amber when the brakes are applied.

So yah something isn’t working right
 




traveler

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Got the controller issue solved (I believe). It wasn't a controller issue at all, it was an installer error :censored:. When I removed the bumper (and the connector) I didn't wire it back correctly. In my defense, the original installer (at the RV dealer) used whatever color wire was handy (black and white) and the images I looked up online used a blue wire for the brake control and a white wire for ground. Today I ended up tracing wires under the hood, under the truck, and into the connector to figure out what wires were actually doing what. Once I did that, it was just a matter of hooking it up correctly.
The green light is working right, and the brakes aren't coming on when they shouldn't. I haven't road tested it yet, as the trailer can be a PIA to get in and out of the area next to the house. But we've got a trip coming up in a couple weeks. I can test it then.
 








traveler

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I did plug it in, checked the light, checked to see if the brakes were staying off (the issue was the brakes being on all the time). I suppose I can hook it up and pull it a few feet toward the curb without actually pulling it out of the yard.
 








traveler

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LoL yes, I remember quite well...
 




traveler

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Birthday present to myself!
 

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traveler

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In other news, looks like NAPA is going to rescue me from social services hell. I'm expecting an employment offer any minute now. 😁
 








traveler

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Late thanks on the Bday greetings! LoL

I tried out the previously posted lights and though they are bright, they have no focus, they appear to be even more spread than flood lights. Sooo moving on I got these monster 7" LED spot/driving lights. I think i finally found my sweet spot of retro KC highlights looks with modern LED tech.
Hmmmm I suppose I could use the previous set of lights on roof rack facing to the side for camping.... well until I decide they are up for sale.

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traveler

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Well, the lights are going to be moved because I just got a new bumper from RockRanger. :) I'll have it welded up and installed on Friday. The welder said he'd see what we could do about adding some tabs for the lights. More to come.....
 








traveler

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Well, I took the Explorer to BrakeMasters to get the AC working again. (Long drive to Moab with no AC and a wife who Loves AC. ;) ) Turns out the Schrader valves were leaking. They agreed to fix those and recharge it and only charge for the valves and labor on them (the Evacuation and recharge fall under warranty). However, nothing is reaching the temps it should due to the temp control blend door. According to them that's a 4 hour job. I get the truck back today, so I can get the new Bumper welded up and installed tomorrow. Then it has to go back to them to finish the job next week.
Has anyone installed a temp control blend door actuator before? How hard is it really? worth having a shop do it?
 




gmanpaint

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I need an A/C schrader valve replaced on the work rig too! $0.25 part is expensive to install!

There should be write ups here, on how to DIY the blend door, and I remember seeing a short cut, by removing the glove box, and cutting a hole to access the door assembly easily.
 


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CDW6212R

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The blend door actuator is an easy to replace part. But the blend door is a different animal. To do it right, the dash has to come out, to get at the internal blend door etc. The common fix is to buy the blend door kit, and carefully cut out a small section out of the bottom of the AC box. It's next to the firewall and the repair kit comes with instructions, bad instructions. The picture is correct, but where they tell you to cut is wrong. The cut needs to include the shaft of where the blend door sets, and a triangular shape big enough for it to come out, and to fish the new one in. Then the cut out piece has to be sealed back in, with AC ducting tape(AL) and/or with RTV etc. I've been putting that off, and now it's time with the temps in the upper 80's here. Maybe tomorrow, my plan is.
 




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