My First Explorer, 2000 EB

[CDW6212R]

Be careful of where you get an engine, or work done to fix the leaks. Some new member here paid $4200 for what was supposed to be the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and one manifold. The dealer(actual dealer service) left some wire connection loose or off(O2 I think it was), with a CEL they got tired of working on it.

For an engine, first look around and see if you can find a good mileage 302 from a 1987-1992 Mark VII. Those are all HO 302's, so well cared for and never shifted above 4500 rpm. If you could find that, change the main seals, and swap your heads and camshaft into it. The cost to rebuild an engine has gotten crazy lately.

 

[traveler]

I'll be sure and be wary, thanks. If I ever do get around to a new engine I'll probably just purchase a rebuilt long block. I can probably get a reasonable deal through NAPA (Employee discount). I'd like to get a long block as one of the reasons for the new engine is the stupid broken bolts in the passenger side head. Though I hadn't thought of the Mark VII HO cars, good thinking.

More seriously though, LilEddie is in need of new gears. The 4.10s with 33" tires just aren't cutting it anymore. In low range on the trails it does ok, but on the roads in 2WD it just doesn't have enough guts (particularly with all that steel in the front and rear bumpers, plus a winch, plus spare parts and tools.) Trying to decide between 4.56 or 4.88 gears. I don't want to go too high as I still plan to drive it to out of state meets such as Ouray and Moab.

 

[Paul]

Probably more competent gear heads on this site, but having run 33’s with 4.10s for a dozen or so years and now running 33’s on 4.56 gears, I’d say 4.56 gears are optimum for 33” tires. Only caveat is that if you are even slightly considering bumping tire sizes to 35’s, then the 4.88s might be the best option.

My experience is limited to manual transmissions, so that gives me a bit more input to gear shifts.

Paul

 

[traveler]

Hanks for the input. It's appreciated.
I'd actually love 35s but just don't have the room for them.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'll be sure and be wary, thanks. If I ever do get around to a new engine I'll probably just purchase a rebuilt long block. I can probably get a reasonable deal through NAPA (Employee discount). I'd like to get a long block as one of the reasons for the new engine is the stupid broken bolts in the passenger side head. Though I hadn't thought of the Mark VII HO cars, good thinking.

More seriously though, LilEddie is in need of new gears. The 4.10s with 33" tires just aren't cutting it anymore. In low range on the trails it does ok, but on the roads in 2WD it just doesn't have enough guts (particularly with all that steel in the front and rear bumpers, plus a winch, plus spare parts and tools.) Trying to decide between 4.56 or 4.88 gears. I don't want to go too high as I still plan to drive it to out of state meets such as Ouray and Moab.

I have a 92 Mark VII project and the 91 that I'm replacing it with(hail damage). So the 92 has only 54k miles now, and from neglect it needs suspension and steering and cooling hose work. The prior owner wasn't driving it and it wondered constantly going home(inner TRE's toast). I've owned five of them now, this one I wasn't planning to need the engine after swapping a 347 into it.

But prices have gone nuts for all used parts, the HO engines would be $1k if you could find one through a forum like Corral etc. So a used Mark VII might turn up with some patience, old and wore out cosmetically etc, the price could be right, maybe. This one I will swap into my 227k mile project Explorer, using the rebuilt GT40P heads, and the camshaft.

That will be the basis to start my project, and with a 6R trans. BTW, the 6R six speed has a 4.17:1 1st gear, that could be fun for an off road truck, though the cost would be at least $4k to swap in, if you had a cheap rebuild labor source. The R&P gears have to be changed, plus the drive shafts, plus a trans controller, and cutting off a small piece of the block(where the starter overlaps on the SBF's).

 

[traveler]

Finally got the time (and courage) to paint the hood and install the hood scoop. Hope it all looks good when it's complete.

 

[donalds]

Ahhh can I have one ....
Looking good
Can't wait to see it all painted

 

[traveler]

Ahhh can I have one ....
Looking good
Can't wait to see it all painted

Actually you could have one. The beautiful blue one you see mounted was donated to me by a member here. I had one before that but its not as nice as this one. I still have the one that "isn't as nice". If you're interested in it I can send it to you. The front mounting tabs are broken off of it but I'm sure you could work your way around that.
I discovered in mounting this that Ford mounted them on the mustang in a recess in the hood. So the honeycomb "grill" goes down lower than the hood itself, into the recess. I had to cut the "grill" in half to make it fit. Then, since I was destroying it anyway, I drill out each little cell so it really is a grill. I plan to cut an opening below the scoop so that it can breath cool air under the hood. I have two choices, 1) Just cut one big square hole under the scoop, or 2) Drill several small 1" holes under the scoop. I'm kinda leaning toward the small holes. That should help keep some of the structural integrity of the hood.

 

[traveler]

Progress so far. I hate the primer stage. It's so redundant. Spray, sand, repeat. Anyway, the scoop is just place on the hood right now. I'm going to paint them separately, but simultaneously so the entire hood is painted. I also can't put the grate in until after the painting is done. I started to drill holes in the hood but after struggling to get 2 done I decided "screw it" and got out the Sawzall. There is a 16" by 10" hole under the scoop. No crazy thoughts on performance gains but it should help keep things cool under there. Then again, if a few stickers are worth 15hp.... hmmmmm.... hehehe

 

[traveler]

So last night I decided to start spraying. I had bought premixed aerosol paints from Amazon, the same company I used when I replaced the rear hatch. I did a quick test shot on a piece of sheet metal I had and it seemed to spray evenly. I started on the hood and found I was wrong. The can spit like an angry cat, terrible coverage, and each can shot about 3/4 of the hood before they were empty. I was very... angry. The hood looks almost striped now. On my regular run to the NAPA store we use for deliveries, I asked the paint guy if he could whip out a couple cans of aerosol paint in Ford Color Code FS. He had them done in a about 10 minutes while I watched. (Very interesting to see how it's done). I'll get home tonight about 6, so I'll have to give the thin layer of paint that's on it now a quick scuff and hope that these will be better, then clear coat. Sometime next fall or spring I hope to sand and spray the entire truck with a Single stage paint in a similar color, just to make it easier to repair scratches etc.

Edit: Ok, so I got home from work, changed clothes, and started on the hood. I wet-sanded the earlier bad paint with 2000grit, blew the water off, and wiped it dry. I did a couple test sprays with the NAPA paint and the difference is night and day. It went on smooth, even, and the color is perfect. I'm so relieved. I will only buy automotive paint from NAPA from now on. I'm in between coats right now, another coat of base then the scoop is bolted on and the clearcoat goes on. Then the true test, I have to figure out how to install a hood with only one body and two hands.

Pics to follow.

 

[gmanpaint]

Painting = So much fun.
Epoxy primer or a self etching primer, & a good 2k single stage topcoat, will work great for off road use.

Wait until you have help to install it tho. That windshield could pay the price.

 

[traveler]

LoL good point on the windshield. Hadn't even thought of that! I got it off by tying two ropes to the carport, and hanging the hood by those before I ever turned a wrench. Once the bolts were out I lifted the rear of the hood over the hinges and hanging it in front of the Explorer. Then I backed the Explorer away from it, placed some sawhorses under it, and untied the ropes lowering it slowly onto the sawhorses. But I'm not sure the reverse would work to put it back on.

 

[traveler]

Painting = So much fun.
Epoxy primer or a self etching primer, & a good 2k single stage topcoat, will work great for off road use.

I'll keep that in mind when the time comes. Appreciate the advice.

 

[traveler]

Got it done, just gotta find a time that my young strong stepson and nephew can come over to help put it on. Hopefully this weekend.

 

[Turdle]

That looks very good Sir. Be proud

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, well done.

 

[Turdle]

When doing install you might cover all edges with frog tape, just because the helpers won't care as much as I do, I mean you do.

 

[traveler]

Thanks for the compliments. I haven't even had a chance to see it in direct sunlight yet. Stepson said he may be able to help install it on Saturday.
I'm sure the helpers will be cautious, but the tape is a good idea. No matter how much ya care accidents do happen.

 

[traveler]

Well, I got it put on. Had to do it myself as my stepson took sick. Wasn't as difficult as I had imagined it to be. Looks good I think.

I'm thinking I'm gonna spend the rest of the day putting tie downs behind the front seats or just under the front of the back seats. That way I can secure cargo to the folded down backseat and keep the weight of the tools and spare parts closer to the center. Something Turdle said about a steep hill in Moab got me thinking it'd be a good idea.

 

[Turdle]

Well done. Looks like nothing happened which is good.