My quest for 30 MPG - Ford Explorer Gas Mileage Tips

[Carguy3J]

I have a plexiglass rear window on my 88. Sunlight will discolor it after a while, so don't use this.

What if you use the privacy tint, like factory (which I would anyway, for looks)? Wouldn't this minimize this? Are you using plain old Home-Depot plexiglass sheets, or the stuff meant for race cars and stuff? ( I don't think that stuff is actually "plexi-glass", but some kind of polycarbonate blah-blah) How much lighter is the stuff you're using vs. the stock glass it replaced?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Plexiglass/polycarbonate is much lighter. I have it as a double layer so it's like a double pane window. It never fogs up, but the added weight of 2 sheets is similar to the stock glass.

 

[relayer4950]

good mileage and almost stock

I agree with Al, driving habits are the best way to increased mileage.

I have a near stock Explorer Sport with the 4.0 OHV and 5 speed manual transmission, only mods so far have been to a smaller tire P225/70R15, run tire pressure at 35 psi and dropped the ride height by 1.5 inches. I'm getting consistant 22 to 24 mpg, that's including most of the time in town. Smooth application of throttle and looking as far down the road as possible for traffic is key.

I read with interest the modifications Al made to his beastie, I see I have better mileage in my future with some rather minor modifications! Great article and much appreciated!
Bill

 

[ShadyGrady]

Hey...What is up folks!? I am a know it all by nature...I do not know anything...nothing more then anyone else. I want to share, and learn. I talk funny and I am real friendly. I am married to a woman we got a kid...FYI...whoever and what ever you the reader may be...cool by me...just PLEASE don't hate!!! God Bless us all...and mostly YOU!!! Let's get to it!! CAR stuff that is!! LOL


I have done a few new mods since my last post...I hope I am not repeating. I can do that sometimes.
I got the optional bigger tire for the OEM application...235/75R15 on, and I run them @ 40 PSI...they can be run as high as 50 PSI so I think I am still safe on this one. Yeah I am sacrificing tire wear for I am hoping to lesson the rolling resistance, which should contribute to better MPG, air box mod(Ford 40.com), and the AGE Dry Charge air filter, I removed the factory cooling fan for the dual electric w/ thermo relay controller wired up to work with the A/C(Beware of poor workmanship with the relay unit...get a better relay like the one from Bosh), I am up to a 180 degree T-Stat, Bosh Platinum + 2 spark plugs, and finally I also did the injector upgrade to the 4jet (18PSI orange cap type from Lucky7Injector.com...ebay store for $99 bucks...yes mine did go bad, and a cleaning did not bring them back, go thing work is only 2 miles away!)
I am getting a whopping 20 to 24 city depending on how I drive it...I can not get less so far...I do drive it as smooth as I can though...driving style IS THE BEST GAS SAVER YOU CAN GET!!( I don't drag race it...it prob fall apart...still removing bubble gum from it...LOL)I live on an Air Force Base...and If i do not get it off the base for a tank...It still gets 17 MPG (Driving conditions are SLOW...SLOW...and SUPER SLOW...we drive 30, 15 and 5 mph...mostly the 5 and 15...the old buggy gets pretty carbonized after a few months of this...the new(to me)Injectors do help keep this problem less than the OEM injectors...I also still do not use a muffler...after install these injectors...this buggy is quiet...I mean it has that sound that is right on par with Flow Master 70...which is much quieter than a Flow Master 40. I hate to admit it, but It is so much more silent than before, it ain't fair to folks with mufflers...I got a home built cat back thanks to a lil rust and mother nature...I do run a pipe kit out to the OEM Exhaust exit location...just no muffler...and yes I was a hard head and drove it around loud as H.E. double-hockey-sticks with what was left over after my original muffler fell off...just not for long. It gets 480 miles to a tank on the highway(the pucker factor won't let me go further till I ride with a full 10GAL gas can...then I can run her dry for the most accurate reading...but I just keep an EYE and take notes...and see how much it takes to fill it...get the difference for a est of gallons used...and figure MPG that way...it works, and seems a bit safer to me.

Next on the (realistic)list of MODS: 255 LPH Walbro fuel pump ($99.00 bucks), and a new Fuel regulator, Throttle body spacer, swap the OEM Air tube for a home made unit I am working on(it will have header wrap for heat issues), punch out the cats, put a bigger collector on the "Y" pipe, Engine oil cooler, and synthetic Tranny(5 speed) and Diff fluids.

I will post again soon as I get stuff done...sorry it takes me so long...
once here I was asked why the 160 degree t-stat...i answered that with heads were questionable, and the low temps help with power...leading to efficiency...it was TOO cold for my bone stock...one leg in the grave Exploder...the 180 is right on point...and my heads are no longer questionable...they are garbage with out a doubt...but I can keep it together till I get better heads.

If you are like me and you got a few rides, and work like a dog all the time, and got no time to fix his own stuff the right way till I take leave to do it.
Get to know two fine products: K&W Block seal / Head Gasket repair & Bars Head and Block Seal!! They do work...and do a good job. While I am NOT a spokesman for those products...I did get to need the help they provide.
I blew out both head gaskets, and I was looking to get a fast fix because I needed to have my own whip to TDY time came...about 3 weeks...so I dumped in so KW...followed the instructions(Yes I had to remove spark plugs to keep from hydro-locking the engine) it ran like dog poop...and it was fixed in minutes...i really mean it...about 5 mins and the water stopped flowing cold. I had a problem though...I followed the directions to the letter...not a good thing to do! sure I got a few days out of it...and then BOOM!! blew both head gaskets again!! (My engine is so clean that I got new respect for water and oil mixtures(LOL but true) I found a web site that said what to be...leave the stuff in for 500 miles...carry water with you for the periodic add that a water only cooling system will need...and treat it hard...get the temps up and really drive it ruff...reason? to get the active ingredient into the space deep as possible and get ti to build up nice. The active ingredient is :"SODIUM SILICATE". WOW YOU SAY, ADDING A SO WHAT IS THAT TO ME??? I said the same thing...ever hear of the $60 to 130 buck fix in a bottle called Blue Magic, or it's cousin Yellow Devil...and similar names?? Pure Sodium Silicate. Chrysler uses it in there cars but a antifreeze compatible version (do not go there...go this way first then do what you want...I warned you) getting back to it...this stuff is the same used as the kids science fair crystal grow kit stuff...it is used in foundry, and a whole host of high heat resistant stuff in the industrial fields...it id heat and pressure resistant, it seals up Block/head cracks with-out making them bigger(I am sure there is a horror story out there somewhere). Lots of testimonials using this stuff can be found if you look on the net...I was looking to see what the hype was over the pricey stuff...and found the cheap stuff is the ticket!! FO SHO!! LEAVE IT IN FOR 500 MILES and then flush and fill with your fav anti-freeze. I LIKE WATER WETTER TOO!!! I am 300 miles down the road, and I do know that this is a temp fix...but it IS supposed to last a long time...years as said by some...I'll let you know if my pucker factor lets me find out just how long for me!!


HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE

HAVE A SAFE AND HAPPY LABOR DAY WEEKEND!!!
DO NOT DRINK AND DRIVE, AND LOOK OUT FOR THE OTHER GUY TOO
COME BACK ALIVE!!

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

The last post gave me a headache from so much text in one post lol.

But don't by the TB spacer. It's a waste.

 

[aldive]

The last post gave me a headache from so much text in one post lol.

... and didn't really say a thing.

 

[Tabz]

Great Thread

I just joined the forum last night and LOVE it. I've all ready read the first 18-20 pages of this thread

I have a 97' V8 AWD Limited full stock, and am wondering what you would say is the best place to start my mod's. (intake, new muffler and pipes, el fan) this will show how little i know about cars, you talked about a "catback" is that a type of muffler or a brand? (sorry, I know but newbs are people too...)

I can't wait to see what I can get my truck up to (I get 19-20 hwy and 13-14 city out of it now)

 

[2000StreetRod]

Good to hear from you!

... and didn't really say a thing.

Glad to see that you're still with us Al! Do you attribute any economy gains to your ignition coil replacement?

 

[rileyrs]

why are people introducing themselves on al's mileage thread, there is a new member forum for that....

 

[mtuboi86]

Any suggestions for mufflers to increase fuel economy? I have a '94 Explorer, and don't think my muffler will last through this winter. It's completely rusted on the outside, but still functioning ('cept I tore the muffler-guard off last week when I went over a metal pole in my yard, but that's not a big deal)

My EGR valve is shot too, so I just have that blocked off. Could probably use new exhaust manifolds.

I'm a college student, so keep price in mind too

I'm also a big fan of this thread. Getting an average of 12mpg or less in the city in winter kills me, and usually only 16 highway. I tend to only drive my Explorer in winter, for the 4x4.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Glad to see that you're still with us Al! Do you attribute any economy gains to your ignition coil replacement?

Al has previously said that upon replacing the ignition coil replacement he saw no immediate gains, but with the Screamin Deamon' Coil Pack you can make the gap on teh spark plugs wider because of a stronger spark. With the same spark plug gap he saw no increase but a steadier idle, but I believe after he widened the gap he saw a minor improvement. Although I'm not sure which.

Any suggestions for mufflers to increase fuel economy?

I would suggest searching the site for what people have used. I know there are tons of posts concerning this. An aftermarket muffler, if installed correctly with the correct size pipe, will help the exhaust gas flow easier and putting less stress on the engine. Search on here, and then go on Youtube and search for videso of these exhausts on Explorers.

My EGR valve is shot too, so I just have that blocked off. Could probably use new exhaust manifolds.

Fix this. It's there for a reason. Google "EGR Valve" and look at even the first post that comes up and you'll see what it's used for.

 

[aldive]

My EGR valve is shot too, so I just have that blocked off. Could probably use new exhaust manifolds.
.

Fix/replce the EGR asap; its killing your gas mileage.

I have improbed gas mileage my modifying the flow ( actually doubling it ) through the EGR via a PCM tune.

Good luck ...

 

[rileyrs]

Any suggestions for mufflers to increase fuel economy? I have a '94 Explorer, and don't think my muffler will last through this winter. It's completely rusted on the outside, but still functioning ('cept I tore the muffler-guard off last week when I went over a metal pole in my yard, but that's not a big deal)

you just need a small piece of extension pipe, and reducer.

if your going for best flow then get a cherry bomb glasspack, but it will be pretty loud, a magnaflow will flow well too, but they are kinda pricey.

 

[mtuboi86]

Fix this. It's there for a reason. Google "EGR Valve" and look at even the first post that comes up and you'll see what it's used for.

The only reason I haven't replaced it is because it's so rusted, if I tried to remove it, I'd bust the exhaust manifold (most likely). Having a shop do it would cost well over $200 cuz of the labor. Parts alone are like $150, last I checked ... for a new EGR valve and new EGR tube (because that rusted through).

From previous research, it looks like the EGR valve only works at highway speeds. It WAS stuck open, so at idle in gear I could feel the engine chugging and nearly dieing. Once I blocked the EGR valve off, this stopped immediately.

I guess since we're on that topic, and tips for replacing the EGR valve? The old one definitely isn't repairable, as it's rusted through. I read somewhere that consistently heating, tapping, spraying with WD-40 (or similar), tapping more, heating again (repeat) is a way to free the connection at the exhaust manifold for the EGR tube.

 

[rileyrs]

EGR Theory. EGR serves one purpose and one purpose only. That purpose is to reduce Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx). Undernormal combustion, Nitrogen(N2)Oxygen (O2) in the air and Hydrocarbons (HC) in the fuel combind into water(H2O) Carbon dioxide (CO2) and the Nitrogen remains unchanged. Under very hot combustion temperatures, the Nitrogen reacts with the other two byproducts and forms Nitrogen oxide (NO). After being released into the atmosphere, it picks up another Oxygen and becomes Nitrogen dioxide (NO2). In the presence of sunlight,
it combines with other compounds like Hydrocarbons and forms Smog. Since exhaust gas is inert (very stable) it doesn’t burn again. So by being introduced into the combustion chamber, it will lower combustion chamber temps enough so that
the Nitrogen doesn’t react with the other compounds and is passed unchanged out
the tailpipe thus not contributing to smog. Now, since exhaust gas doesn’t burn, it
doesn’t exactly help with combustion. At higher RPM’s, this really isn’t noticable,
but at idle, the reintroduction of exhaust gas will cause a very rough idle and can
cause stalling if to much is introduced into the combustion chamber.
If your egr is stuck open, plug it now, and get it fixed asap. It will cause your engine to run poorly
and loose power and economy. If its not engaging and is stuck closed, get to
it eventually, but dont sweat it... your car will run just as well without it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Duty cycle?

Fix/repalce the EGR asap; its killing your gas mileage.

I have improved gas mileage my modifying the flow ( actually doubling it ) through the EGR via a PCM tune.

Good luck ...

Did increasing the EGR result in a leaner mixture and improved economy? What is your typical A/F ratio when cruising? According to my Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management book 15.4:1 is the best for economy. Did increasing the duty cycle allow you to advance the ignition timing without detonation for more complete combustion?

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Aldive, just saw on the Discovery Channel that next Wednesday they're doing a myth on "Is a dirty car more fuel efficient then a dirty car?"

Also looked like they're studying the golf ball and why the dimples help it to, ALSO looked like they were dimpling a car lol.

Thought you might be interested, I'll be tuning in for sure.

 

[Fordexplorer140k]

Who does better tunes doug or james since they both cost the same amount of $$$$.

Also I made a custom MAF housing, well actually i just bought some water pipes that was 3" and drilled a big enough hole to slide my stock MAF sensor and hot glued it in there so no air can leak. I also bought the ford racing TB the one for the mustang you have, yeah well the bolt patterns dont line up but i did however port the hell out of my stock TB. During my tune with my flasher i un-plugged the stock TB thats on there and plugged it into the mustang TB. I Thought with the amount of air i am getting out of the stock TB thats on there now is equal to or greater than the air i would be getting with the 70mm one. Do you see anything wrong with that? tricking the computer i guess you would call it.

The other mod was this, I cut my cat and muffler off and replaced it with a 2" pipe and it sounds good "too me" and i noticed some HP gains and MPG gains. I did buy a cherry bomb muffler but it was too quite "for me" Do you see anything wrong that mod i just mentioned? would i get more power if i put the muffler on?

My check engine light keeps coming on after about.. i dont know 20-30 miles. Every time i read the codes on my flasher it says system running to lean. Even when i tuned the damn thing to run super rich. No matter how rich i tune it the trouble code always says too lean i dont understand.

Would a custom tune stop the too lean problem. I think i remember someone on hear telling me that i have to get a custom tune once i get a larger MAF

Thanks for taking the time to read and respond.

 

[gavin]

The other mod was this, I cut my cat and muffler off and replaced it with a 2" pipe and it sounds good "too me" and i noticed some HP gains and MPG gains. I did buy a cherry bomb muffler but it was too quite "for me" Do you see anything wrong that mod i just mentioned? would i get more power if i put the muffler on?

yes.
removing the catalytic converter is illegal.
Even if your state doesn't do IM tests, it's still against federal law to remove the cat.

not to mention that the lack of backpressure can kill the low-end power (or was it high-end?)

and a cherry bomb was too quiet? what, are you partially deaf? especially without a cat?

 

[Turdle]

One word

Dimples

Saw it on mythbusters.