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My spark plug change - 4.6L V8 2007 Sport Trac

jadez03

Active Member
Joined
June 11, 2011
Messages
66
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City, State
Anchorage, AK
Year, Model & Trim Level
07 4WD 4.6L V8 Sport Trac
Greetings! I just bought a 2007 Sport Trac Build date 04/06 So Gen1 I guess, 102,000 miles and no idea really how the owner before treated it. After the sale I had the infamous misfire under load, original spark plugs, so I decided after reading all the horror stories on here, that it was worth a try. Might have helped dealers here wanted 600-800 minimum for the job. (No way!)

Below are the tools I gathered before attempting. We also had a garage with a compressor and basic tools. We followed the TSB/carb cleaner method of slight loosening and soaking, and working on the plugs in intervals while they soaked.

7BeKJET.jpg


While we were down in there I cleaned the MAF and cleaned up the intake components. As you can see, the engine was dirty as hell.

45Tmo48.jpg


This is the only action shot I got of the process, which was actually not that bad and just involved slightly moving the plugs, soaking, and moving on, over and over again.

mgpox2s.jpg


Before we completely removed the plugs we blew the hole out with air to avoid unnecessary intake in to the head.

If you look closely to the first pic, you'll see a case underneath the dielectric grease and anti-seize, the case there is the Lislie broken spark plug removal took that I ordered, but actually didn't even have to use!

The plugs were NASTY though!

aJvLELD.jpg


All in all though, it wasn't that bad. You just gotta take it slow and don't force them. I ran a single tank with chevron additive before the attempt, and we did it while the engine was slightly warm because of time constraints.

Oh yeah, installed an autostart at the same time. :smokinfro
 



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I used some penetrating spray oil, let soak and 1 pop on socket and all came out. installed new ones with anti-seize for next time! I tried the e3 plugs and actually felt a difference.
 






We thought about mixing the Carb cleaner with the PB but ended up not needing to. I originally bought only the PB but my mechanic friend advised me carb cleaner was the way to go. I feel a difference from the nasty plugs to the HT1's, I wonder what the e3's would feel like. I read that they're mostly for tuned engines.
 






Hi all, does anybody know or have a trick to get out a broken spark plug out? I'm kind of screwed right now cant really afford to take to shop.
 






Where was the break? Hex nut or porcelain? They make a tool that's $60 for removing them.
 






Glad mine is a mid year 08 model with the updated heads and plugs.
 






As a note and reference to those crafty people out there. A mixture of transmission fluid and acetone is the best penetrating fluid you can get. Mix it about 50/50 and it will penetrate frozen and rusted bolts. The trans fluid has a high amount of detergents in it and can really clean stuff up. The acetone helps to break stuff up and allows the weeping action in really tight places... :usa:
 






Thanx for the replies, I did manage to get it removed, I called my parts car and got the removal tool. Once removed and replaced he said to run sea foam in the TB till it stalled then dump rest in tank and go run the piss out of it hehe, it helped for sure.
 






WOOO, lots of dirtyness on them old plugs. That reminds me, I think I'm goign to fire this project up too.

Great tips in this thread, thanks.
 






thanks

Thanks for all the posts on this subject. I was nervous with all the different opinions of warm or cold; by hand or air wrench. Even after buying the plugs I still almost backed out and called ford as I was up there in miles 120K. The on phone estimate of between 500-700$ helped me regain my nerves. I went with a cold engine, soaked with PB lubricant a little even before doing the 1/4 turn on the plug. Soaked again after breaking the 1/4 turn. Then went back and forth when felt resistance which still never reached 35ftlbs using the torque wrench. when I got the plugs 1/2 way out I individually sucked out any remaining lubricant. I then vacuumed again after the plugs were out. The SportTrac V8 actually had rather easy access to the plugs. Used antiseize on install and will revisit in another 100K. truck runs great and the tapping noise went away.
 






I'm new to this forum, but not to a wench. My 57K mile 4.6l 08' early build spark plugs were changed using a 1/2" impact with the engine @ operating temp. I performed a Seafoam service, vacuum and gas tank first. This method worked great, 8 for 8. The Ford mechanic on Youtube was right on . . .
 






Success!!!!!!

Hey guys, This is my first post.
I used seafoam to do a top engine cleaning. Then run 2 tanks of premium 93oct, with a full can of seafoam in each tank. I did my plugs last night in about a hours and a half. No special tools, just a socket set and air hose. No penetrating fluid at all. I pulled up in my driveway after getting to operating temp, popped the hood and went to work. 8 for 8 baby, no problems at all. They were the two piece plugs too. I couldn't believe how easy they came out. I would highly recommend this method.
One detail I did do. I went one at a time removing and replacing, before moving to the next. I removed all plug boot screws and wires, but left the boots in to retain heat in the plug port. The plugs come out rusted and crusty, but intact.
My ST is 07 limited 4x4, 4.6L, 78k miles.
I was afraid to use the impact wrench. If you strip the plug thread you are gonna have a bigger problem than just stuck plugs.
GOOD LUCK to all who attempt this. I hope my story helps.
Note: 3 cans of seafoam = $21.00 (On sale at autozone 3 weeks ago), E3 sparkplugs = $56.00 shipped (on sale at autoanything), total = $77.00 (that's way cheaper than going to the dealership and having this done)
Also: The E3 plugs are legit, noticeable power gain out of the box. I'm going to Orlando next week, about 800 miles each way. I'll update my gas mileage gains after my real world test.
 






Greetings! I just bought a 2007 Sport Trac Build date 04/06 So Gen1 I guess, 102,000 miles and no idea really how the owner before treated it. After the sale I had the infamous misfire under load, original spark plugs, so I decided after reading all the horror stories on here, that it was worth a try. Might have helped dealers here wanted 600-800 minimum for the job. (No way!)

Below are the tools I gathered before attempting. We also had a garage with a compressor and basic tools. We followed the TSB/carb cleaner method of slight loosening and soaking, and working on the plugs in intervals while they soaked.

View attachment 404556

While we were down in there I cleaned the MAF and cleaned up the intake components. As you can see, the engine was dirty as hell.

View attachment 404557

This is the only action shot I got of the process, which was actually not that bad and just involved slightly moving the plugs, soaking, and moving on, over and over again.

View attachment 404558

Before we completely removed the plugs we blew the hole out with air to avoid unnecessary intake in to the head.

If you look closely to the first pic, you'll see a case underneath the dielectric grease and anti-seize, the case there is the Lislie broken spark plug removal took that I ordered, but actually didn't even have to use!

The plugs were NASTY though!

View attachment 404559

All in all though, it wasn't that bad. You just gotta take it slow and don't force them. I ran a single tank with chevron additive before the attempt, and we did it while the engine was slightly warm because of time constraints.

Oh yeah, installed an autostart at the same time. :smokinfro
What size spark plugs do use on a 4x4 v8 4.6L ford explorer
 






It depends on production year and VIN number.
 






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