My turn to ask for help

[Glacier991]

You just have to think this site is the best anywhere. I now have a 2nd vote (more motivation) for the ICM... and while I might have written the interial switch off..... maybe I will pay some attention to it. My problem has hundreds of eyes on it now and hundreds of experiences. Priceless. Thank all.. VERY MUCH. This is great!

The FPR from Torrie is $50..... hmmmm... tempting


I should add this plug. Torrie runs www.FordPartsNetwork.com, a site sponsor. He sells original FORD/MOTORCRAFT parts, like the dealer, at a discount. Now we all know places like Autozone, Kragen, Checkers, Pep Boys etc can beat FORD prices, and yeah sometime (lots of times) Torrie's too. In some cases,no, in a lot of cases, OEM Factory parts are worth it over Autozone, etc. import parts, quality wise and performance wise. Sure I buy from Autozone etc (and applaud their website which is killer, btw!), but some parts, I will only buy OEM (some A4LD trannie parts for example)... for newbies it is a fair Q to ask if the part you might need is best to buy as OEM or aftermarket... in many cases the OEM is worth the extra price! Torrie is your guy for those parts. Good service, good guy, good prices for OEM parts. Trust me. I do business with him. Highly recommended. End plug.

 

[DocAnkh]

Glacier,I did'nt catch the year of the car but,maybe I can give an run down idea.I take it that it does rotate.Engine rotates and does'nt sound like its even trying to fire,ICM,fuel pump,Inertia switch(I.S.common problem in older escorts)in shut off pistion,water in fuel,bad fuse or relay.No juice to plugs,pack or fuel injectors.If it starts up and idles and stuts off when you put it in gear (R or D)chances are good for a bad fuel filter.If it sounds like it wants to start its probly gas related,i.e.filter,pump,kinked gas line,water in gas, etc...Good luckalso thanks for the photo of the solenoid......

 

[emtech708]

Help

I once had a buick that would do the same thing, replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, tune-up, fuses. ended up being the crankshaft sensor, a 20.00 part. I am not sure if this can help but I tried.

 

[410Fortune]

I still think your fuel pump is weak.
The FPR will fail if the diaphram is torn, this will not allow your 30 psi (steady pressure, it would be all over the map) if that happens.
(gas in vacuum line?)
If the engine has a vacuum leak then you can have fuel pressure issues (intermittant, jumps around).

Park car on hill with fuel tank downhill, 1/4 tank of gas, let it sit for a few. Check fuel pressure after a couple min to see if the pressure drops (leak down test). Will it start? Pump prime before start? weak start?

If the car has a TFI module, carry a spare and the thumb wrench to swap it out. These suckers will go out when they get hot and or fail all at once.

 

[jtf_explorer]

before you rebuild your car, next time it stalls take a BFH and beat the gas tank while someone else turns the engine over. Turning it over for about 15 seconds while beating the hell out of the gas tank. If it wouldn't start, but then starts after jaring the fuel pump, then replace the fuel pump to solve your complaint. This is the first diagnosis step at the garage I work at for no-starts like yours. Don't be gentle when hitting the tank it may take alot of jarring, of coarse unless it is metal and rusty

 

[Glacier991]

<smiling> I wish it happened often enough I could reliably do that... but instead, before I replace the pump I am carrying a fuel pressure gauge... so when (and eventually I assume it will... maybe even before Christmas) it won't start I can check for fuel pressure at the rail and eliminate or rule in the pump positively... without getting dirty <g>. Good tip though ! Thanks!

 

[gavin]

I had the same problem in my Bronco2. Would run fine, but then start sputtering and die. Try to restart, to no avail. At first, I could let it sit a couple minutes and would fire right up. Then a couple minutes turned into 15 min, then into an hour. Replaced the fuel filter, no help. Finally replaced the pump, and the problem was gone.

 

[Glacier991]

well gavin, I think you are right. Guess what? I had a delightful event happen to me today - my Sable had a "no-start" episode! Why delightful? Because I have been carrying my fuel guage with me. Hooked that baby up to the rail, and NO pressure. Went back in the car and turned on the ignition, heard the pump engage, jumped out ran up to see the gauge and it slowly came up to 25PSI. Car started, now 30 PSI.

This tells me that it's not simply a relay, otherwise I would have had better pressure, and frankly 30 PSI is low side normal anyway.... so, thankfully in case it had been worse - close to home, I have isolated the problem. New fuel pump coming up. I had always had that as my primary suspicion, but now it's nice to know for certain. I'm gonna replace the relay prophylactically, since it's only $12. I'll hang onto the old one
as a "hot spare"...

Thanks gavin, and everyone else, for your help, insights and sharing experiences. It truly does help to filter problems through the collective experience on this board.

THANK YOU EVERYONE!

"HOUSTON, Our problem is solved!"

 

[410Fortune]

BAM! Fuel pump = weak.

The Bronco II in 88 has TWO pumps, a boost pump and a high pressure pump. this makes diagnosis so much fun! It will run with a weak boost pump (in the tank) until you park or try to drive up a large hill.