Need Help - Engine 4.0 SOHC | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Need Help - Engine 4.0 SOHC

Orleans

Active Member
Joined
October 5, 2010
Messages
92
Reaction score
0
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Ford Explore Limited
2005 Ford Explorer Limitet 4.0 SOHC - 60.000 miles

My truck has the following problems:

Before:
Light check engine is on a few months ago.
Smell of gasoline in the exhaust (weak)

Now
Engine vibration at idle
Strong smell of gasoline in the exhaust
Engine too weak
Very difficult to work and start
Smell of gasoline in the air filter and intake manifold
I have very little knowledge about the SOHC engine. What might be happening?

I appreciate any help
Thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Here it is difficult to get a scanner, but I'll try.

New symptoms

Engine oil with gas smell
The engine cranks for 2 seconds and locked (seized).
If try to restart immediately the engine does not crank. So can new cranks after a few hours and again cranks for 2 seconds and locked (seized).
Very strange.
Fuel injector locked open flooding the cylinder?
What should I test?
 












The mechanic said the battery was turned off and all codes are cleared. Is this true? When you disconnect the battery all codes are deleted?
 






they'll come back if that's the case, I think it needs to be unplugged for awhile
 






vehicle is in Brazil

Since you are located in Brazil there probably is only limited knowledge and support for your Explorer. I agree that there is a possibility that excess fuel is entering the cylinders. If too much fuel is in the chamber the starter won't crank due to high pressure in the combustion chamber. Under those conditions it is even possible to bend valves.

I suggest that you remove at least one spark plug and see if it is wet with fuel. If it is then I advise against cranking the starter until you determine where the fuel is coming from. Check another plug on the other bank for the same condition.

There is a fuel pressure/temperature sensor on the fuel rail.
FuelPressureSensor.jpg

You might try removing the vacuum hose connected to the sensor to see if it is full of fuel. If it is then the sensor should be replaced.
 






Since you are located in Brazil there probably is only limited knowledge and support for your Explorer. I agree that there is a possibility that excess fuel is entering the cylinders. If too much fuel is in the chamber the starter won't crank due to high pressure in the combustion chamber. Under those conditions it is even possible to bend valves.

I suggest that you remove at least one spark plug and see if it is wet with fuel. If it is then I advise against cranking the starter until you determine where the fuel is coming from. Check another plug on the other bank for the same condition.

There is a fuel pressure/temperature sensor on the fuel rail.
View attachment 88829
You might try removing the vacuum hose connected to the sensor to see if it is full of fuel. If it is then the sensor should be replaced.

Ford sold the Explorer V6 SOHC in Brazil only in 2005. We have no assistance here.
I will do this test immediately. To reach this pressure sensor I have to remove the intake manifold?
 






removing intake manifold

I'm not familiar with the exact configuration of the 2005 engine. There is a fuel rail for each bank and the fuel pressure/temperature sensor will be connected to one of the fuel rails. From the photo below I suspect it is under the larger section of the intake manifold.
2005ExEngine.jpg

You should be able to access the vacuum hose to the sensor without removing the intake manifold.
 






Sorry for the delay. I had to buy a tool kit.
The pressure sensor is below the intake manifold.

Look at this video.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4dej_Vtlo6Q

I removed the vacuum hose and is a strong smell of gasoline.
Before begin the problem my wife said the car was too weak, with a strong smell of gasoline and the engine was a serious noise, like beats.
The engine does not crank. This locked up. Only 1/4 turn clockwise and counterclockwise manually with a key in the screw of the crankshaft.
I removed all the spark plugs and one of them was wet with gasoline.
I did another test. A small plastic tube into the hole of the candles, turned the crankshaft manually and found that all the pistons move.

This noise in the bottom of the car can be a damaged chain? This noise appeared a few months ago. After an exchange of engine oil and transmission, noise improved 90%. Only appeared when starting the engine.

http://www.4shared.com/video/LISa-7t...orer_Vdeo.html
 






crankshaft rotation?

With the spark plugs removed there should be no compression. If the crankshaft still will not rotate it is not due to fuel in the combustion chamber. Do not use excessive force trying to rotate the crankshaft. That might cause additional damage.

You could remove the valve covers and check for broken valve springs or stuck open valves. With the valve covers removed you can also check for broken camshaft timing chain cassette guides (front and rear). That is the most likely failure on the SOHC V6. It might be easier to remove the lower oil pan and check for broken cassette pieces in the pan.

Another possibility is a bent connecting rod but that rarely happens with normal driving.

I saw the first video but couldn't view the second one.
 






Noise

I'll send the second video from another site.
I'm having trouble with this link.
Thank you
 












when taken?

Was that video taken before or after the engine quit running and you removed the intake manifold?

Where was the microphone located? I can't tell if it was below the oil pan or above the valve cover.

I can't identify the sound. To me it doesn't sound like the typical broken cassette. I often describe a broken cassette sound similar to marbles rattling around inside the engine block. That sound is created by the loose timing chain striking other metal objects. It is usually louder immediately after cold engine start before the oil has fully lubricated the chain and what the chain is striking.
 






This noise was before the engine stops working.
The microphone was between the engine and the transmission torque converter.
Before changing the engine oil and replace the transmission fluid, the noise was constant Stronger when starting the engine and then reduced, but it was there.
After I changed the oil, the noise only appeared to start the engine. 2 seconds after he disappeared.
I should have just changed the engine oil to test. Only after I should have changed the transmission fluid. Swapping the two at the same time I do not know which improved the noise.

I will remove the valves cover.
You know the price of a complete kit with all the chains and other parts needed for this job? I prefer OEM.
Thank you
 












Update

I removed the intake manifold. The pressure sensor has no smell of gasoline in its output to the hose ..
See the image.

uEkhMQR.jpg


jsIMV1p.jpg


The first lower intake manifold hole is flooded with gasoline.
All valves appear to be open.
The chains are secure.
Retreat the cover to see the conditions of the front chain?
Post more detailed images of a specific location?
I appreciate any help.

oe1gP9J.jpg


63DltSy.jpg


9VXHbDq.jpg
 






stuck open injector?

If fuel was leaking into the intake manifold I suspect it would be fairly uniformly distributed to all of the cylinders. The most likely cause of only one input port full of fuel is a stuck open injector. Another possibility is the valves for that cylinder are not opening and prevent the fuel from entering the combustion chamber.

I suggest removing the spark plug for that cylinder and then manually rotating the crankshaft to determine if the valves open. If they do the fuel should drain into the combustion chamber. If that happens, do not rotate the crankshaft with the spark plug installed since the non-compressible fuel in the chamber could bend the valves.
 






I took all the spark plugs. The engine still locked. I tried to manually turn the crankshaft and not crank.
The crankshaft rotates very little and with difficulty. 1/4 turn with the wrench.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Update

The engine is locked because one connecting rod is damaged. Consequence of excess gas in the cylinder. It will be Replaced.
I scored some points before removing the cylinder head.
The engine is in the correct timing? It is possible to check for these images?

uHhTAkD.jpg


97yLfaE.jpg


CoveCAI.jpg


QDQxMlM.jpg


nzrxamT.jpg
 






Back
Top