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Need help - Engine Error Codes

OKay I am confused here
Earlier you asked:
Where are the O rings that they are talking about and it was not answered

O rings are between the two halves of the plastic intakes, upper and lower I believe if its a 2000 Ranger Right?

Then you said your EGR sensor DPFE was in a puddle? Meaning melted plastic?
Did you replace it with the unit from Napa?


Then you finally cleaned the MAS and cleared the codes, but they are back.
I suggest you get a code reader, they are cheap, like $29+ and it will save you from running back and forth

If it is still the same two codes and those are the only codes you get then it points to something in the intake since both exhaust banks are effected at once.
It is possibe you killed two 02 sensor at the same time but not likely, check the wiring to them, or they both failed at the same time

and you said water may have possibly gotten into something = you where weeling in deep water/mud?


Make sure the wiring to your EGR sensor and hoses all look good check connections (since you worked in there recently and had an issue.
Check the wiring plugs leading to the 02 sensors, no wires melted, etc. 4x4ing can break the factory sensor clips and the wires can get loose and close to exhaust.

I would clean the MAS again
How did you clean the MAS, did you remove the sensor from the mas body?
Check the IAC, hoses on the throttle body and upper intake for vacuum leaks.

Then consider replacing those O rings, its really not a huge job IMO even with a learning curve.
Just unbolt everything attached to the upper intake, remove hoses wires, etc, remove upper, pull out rings, install new ones.

The O rings are covered on this site. The code reader will confirm codes and allow you to clear both soft and hard codes from the computer memory.
 



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What you may be overlooking is that "earlier" was about one year ago. His "fix" at that time was to reset his computer. Much like his "fix" after his most recent code.

I'm surprised he just doesn't ask how to unplug his CEL bulb.
 






Then you said your EGR sensor DPFE was in a puddle? Meaning melted plastic?
Did you replace it with the unit from Napa?

and you said water may have possibly gotten into something = you where weeling in deep water/mud?

How did you clean the MAS, did you remove the sensor from the mas body?

410, let me explain things a little better. The first sets of posts were about 10 months ago, shortly after I have gone on the Lost Hwy 97 trip with SVO. The EGR sensor DPFE was another forum member (Explodersport), not me. I do not have any melted plastic that I am aware of.

When I cleaned it (I thought a dirty MAF sensor may be a contributor to my problem), I did not remove the sensor from the body. I will do that next. I am using CRC MAF cleaner and will spray it directly on the heated wires.

I am trying to decide on which reader / scanner to get, so that is in work. Yes, the truck is a 2000 Ranger with the plastic upper, so I am treating it at this point as a vacuum leak and that the intake O-rings may be a contributor.

I hope this helps make things a little more clear. :)
 






I'm surprised he just doesn't ask how to unplug his CEL bulb.

I am offended by this comment. I am trying to correct the problem. The reason that I disconnected the battery this time was that I had read that it needed to be done after cleaning the MAF. I did not do it for the sole purpose of trying to clear the CEL. I am not some schmuck who does not understand how his/her vehicle works and just wants the stupid light to go off.:fire: I genuinely want to find and correct the problem.
 






I am trying to decide on which reader / scanner to get, so that is in work. Yes, the truck is a 2000 Ranger with the plastic upper, so I am treating it at this point as a vacuum leak and that the intake O-rings may be a contributor.
Kaiser, you're on the right track. First verify that the codes are the same as earlier. If so, I'd bet that leaking O-rings are the culprit. This is a very, very common problem on these Explorers with the phenolic intake manifolds. I have a theory that the plastic manifolds warp because of heat/cool cycles over time, and that causes the leaks. New O-rings and proper bolt torquing solves the problem.

I read somewhere that Ford has redesigned the O-rings, to provide a better intake seal.

Also, before tearing into it, examine the air tube closely to make sure it isn't cracked or loose. any leak in the tube downstream of the MAF will give the same lean condition and codes......
 






ROE-
I will also replace the fuel filter (needs to be done anyway) in conjunction with my other trouble shooting, as not enough fuel would cause a lean condition also. Thanks for the lead on the air tube inspection, I will check that also.
 






I tried a trick that SVO told me about, using ether to find a vacuum leak. I sprayed all around the mating surface in between the upper and lower intakes, where the inlet air temp connects, where the vacuum accessories connect, etc. with no change in idle (I sprayed some directly at the air filter to "calibrate" my ear as to what to listen for). This leads me to believe that a vacuum leak is not the case. I disassembled and cleaned the MAF with the MAF cleaner and cotton swabs. Quite a bit of black crud came off, so hopefully that will help. I have purchased a scanner (wanted one anyway) and it will be here on Friday, so hopefully I will have more data to help me out.
 






Sorry to hijack your post, but I just recently got the Bank 1&2 too lean codes also. I'm just curious, however, does a vacuum leak have any effect on idle? The only driveability issue ive had with my car is that when I start it cold (its worse after sitting a few days, but this has been happening a few times even when warm now), It will turn just fine, and start, and idle very high for a second or 2, then sometimes just dies. Does this sound like it could be a vacuum leak, or probably something more fuel related? Thanks.
 






Sorry to hijack your post, but I just recently got the Bank 1&2 too lean codes also. I'm just curious, however, does a vacuum leak have any effect on idle? The only driveability issue ive had with my car is that when I start it cold (its worse after sitting a few days, but this has been happening a few times even when warm now), It will turn just fine, and start, and idle very high for a second or 2, then sometimes just dies. Does this sound like it could be a vacuum leak, or probably something more fuel related? Thanks.
My vac. leak was affecting idle and in a way...having too much air introduced to the mix does affect the fuel one way or another....

I thought the truck was supposed to idle high at cold start just to get things warmed up but the whole dies afterward thing....that's not normal :)
 






More thoughts:
I replaced the fuel filter and also reran the codes (I got my scanner in and it is COOL!!) and showed the same P0171 and P0174. I have read several other threads on these same codes and many of them mentioned rough idle. I have not noticed a significant rough idle (maybe I have a slight idle issue and am just used to it?) or driveability issues. Although I tried the ether trick, maybe I still have a very slight vacuum leak (many posts mention vacuum leaks for the 4.0 SOHC, not as many for the 4.0 OHV that I have). I will tighten the upper intake manifold fasteners tomorrow and see if that helps. If not, I will replace the o-rings. I tried to find the thread describing the replacement of those o-rings but have not had any success. If someone knows where a good one is, can they post a link? I did find a post that lists possible causes for these codes:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=145587


Any more thoughts? Thanks for the help that has been posted so far.
 






O-Rings, Gaskets

More thoughts:
I replaced the fuel filter and also reran the codes (I got my scanner in and it is COOL!!) and showed the same P0171 and P0174. I have read several other threads on these same codes and many of them mentioned rough idle. I have not noticed a significant rough idle (maybe I have a slight idle issue and am just used to it?) or driveability issues. Although I tried the ether trick, maybe I still have a very slight vacuum leak (many posts mention vacuum leaks for the 4.0 SOHC, not as many for the 4.0 OHV that I have). I will tighten the upper intake manifold fasteners tomorrow and see if that helps. If not, I will replace the o-rings. I tried to find the thread describing the replacement of those o-rings but have not had any success. If someone knows where a good one is, can they post a link? I did find a post that lists possible causes for these codes:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=145587


Any more thoughts? Thanks for the help that has been posted so far.

tOOK me forever to find what I was looking for mentioning Upper Intake with gasket or with O-Rings..... Grab Yourself a Haynes or Chilton's manual and you're good to go....torque wrench ..... I found on mine that the picture with arrows pointing to vacuum lines to remove didn't point to two other lines I had to remove to get the intake off.....so when you have all the bolts undone and can pull your intake up.......pull just enough to feel and see all the lines you missed......if you have a digi-cam take pictures before and during so you know what things looked like and then you will be good to go.
 






Yet more thoughts:
I know my O2 sensors are working fine (didn't really suspect them anyway). They were showing voltage ranges from 0.050 volts to 0.850 volts. My long term fuel trim for bank 1 is 15.6% and bank 2 is 14.0% (short term trim at idle fluctuates right around zero). I checked my vacuum lines tonight (the ones that I could get to) and did not find anything. Based on poking around under the hood and in combination with pictures in the Haynes manual, I have regular gaskets in between the plastic upper and the aluminum lower intake manifolds. I think that the o-rings are only on the SOHC. Haynes is really lacking on any information on the upper intake (based on the Ranger manual). I will try tightening the upper intake manifold fasteners and see if that helps. If that doesn't do the trick, I will try replacing the the PCV valve and then the upper intake gaskets.
 






Yet more thoughts:
I know my O2 sensors are working fine (didn't really suspect them anyway). They were showing voltage ranges from 0.050 volts to 0.850 volts. My long term fuel trim for bank 1 is 15.6% and bank 2 is 14.0% (short term trim at idle fluctuates right around zero). I checked my vacuum lines tonight (the ones that I could get to) and did not find anything. Based on poking around under the hood and in combination with pictures in the Haynes manual, I have regular gaskets in between the plastic upper and the aluminum lower intake manifolds. I think that the o-rings are only on the SOHC. Haynes is really lacking on any information on the upper intake (based on the Ranger manual). I will try tightening the upper intake manifold fasteners and see if that helps. If that doesn't do the trick, I will try replacing the the PCV valve and then the upper intake gaskets.
that phrase the ones that I could get to.....that'sthe kicker. My pcv elbow....the one coming back around into the intake.....looked fine but when I had enough disconnected and could feel real good under it it was like swiss cheese.......also..you said you had alot of crud on your MAF..... do you have a way of testing it yet? Because it may just need replaced.....
 






Last night I tightened the intake bolts. The front and rear bolts were a little under the 17 ft-lbs, all others didn't move. I also replace the PVC valve. The new one definitely fit tighter into the valve cover. I zip tied the PCV hose on the valve and the intake. I cleaned the IAC as I wanted to check the gasket on it and thought it could use a cleaning anyway. I removed the intake tube and inspected it and did not find anything. Double checked the inlet air temp (also cleaned it as it had some gunk on it) and valve breather tube to make sure that they were seated properly. Tonight I will start through the Ford truck manual trouble shooting procedure (didn't get the Ford manual until yesterday).
 


















Updates

I checked the fuel pressure the other day and it was within spec. I disturbed one of the connectors to the fuel injector and it wasn't firing. I jiggled it back into place and it worked after that (I had to clear a misfire code as a result, though).

I check the ECM again today (at hot idle) and my Long Term Fuel trim was about 20% for both banks and my short term was -12% for both banks and my barometric pressure was reading 27.95 inHG but the actual for my location was about 30.00 inHG (as reported by Weather Underground.com at several local personal weather stations close to my house). Interesting observations as the Ford manual mentions a -12% fuel trim (it mentions long term, however) and a +/- 2 inHG difference as a MAF problem. I will try and run through the remainder of the Ford trouble shooting later this week. I followed through the trouble shooting and an intake leak in between the upper and lower intake manifolds is listed. Sounds like I have a project for myself this weekend.
 






O'Reilly has the gaskets (Fel-Pro, Part No: MS90732) for $21.99. Anyone know if any that are better? Anyone know if these are what Ford uses (I would guess that the answer is yes, but you never know)?
 






I may have missed it but I do not recall if you said your LTFT was neg or positive. 20% is at the outer reaches of adaptive capacity. Big clue here, depending on + or -.
 



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Glacier-

The LTFT was positive 20%. I also forgot to mention that while the CEL has not come back on after my latest reset, I do have the same codes (P0171 and P0174) as pending. Every time I have checked the LTFT it has been positive (usually in the 12% - 14% range).

Thanks for the help.
 






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