New 5.0 Engine

[SupaSwope]

Didn't know to post here or modifed. This gets more traffic. Mods Switch if Necessary.

Long story short. Rear main seal leaks, and the torque converter slips so it needs to be replaced. To replace either the engine has to come out as we all know. Once the engine is out I can replace the torque converter that's easy enough. But then we come to the engine. Since I can't have my car out of commission for more then week here are my options.

Junkyard 5.0 Rebuild 2500+

or

New Reman of Ebay - $2200+

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262485632440?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



Or overhaul my current engine $1500+

But then I would be out a truck for a while.

Opinions and Advice wanted.

 

[koda2000]

As you can't be w/out your truck for more than a week, rebuilding the engine yourself seems out of the question. You can buy all the parts, but to do it properly the block and heads will need to go to the machine shop for cylinder boring, crank shaft refinishing, crank journal line-boring, a 3-angle valve job and new valve seals (maybe springs), head and block milling, cam bearing replacement and balancing the rotating assembly. Are you figuring all that into your $1500?

How many miles on your engine? Is your only complaint the leaky rear main seal? How bad is the leak? All 5.0's seem to leak from the rear main seal, so if the leaks not too bad you might as well live with it.

IMO, removing the transmission is a lot easier than removing the engine, as there's a lot less stuff to have to take apart/disconnect.

 

[SupaSwope]

Okay current engine. Runs pretty well honestly. It has 206,000 miles on it. 1999. Had 80,000 of those miles within 3 years by 2002, Shows it in the maintenance records in the manual. Main seal doesn't leak that bad but leaks enough for me to notice in Florida. The whole reason for the rebuild or reman is because next year I will be going across the country and back. 7000 miles with at least 5000 pound trailer behind me, Threw Tennessee mountains and Colorado mountains are the parts I am most concerned obviously. If the Seal leaks on flat ground when I stomp on the gas passing people then If I was going uphill with a 2.5 ton load I would imagine it would be a lot worse. It does not leak a lot it seems. I mean I can't even tell when I check my oil honestly. Its not much on the stick but it seems like its been going on for a while. were talking less then half a quart if that. But it does leak right on the exhaust...

For the 1500 for the rebuild of my own I had some machining in my mind but this would be my first rebuild honestly so I'm still learning. I had in mind for machining, old piston remove and installation of new. Bore and hone .10 under, Get the Journals .10 under and polished and new cam bearings installed. The rest I planed on doing myself. I have no idea what machining would cost. But my Brake down was 1000 machining and 500 parts and the + is for extra stuff like sensors, plugs,wires, etc.

I just want something that's gonna Pull threw the mountains reliably and not brake down or oveheat going 7000 miles with 5000 pounds of weight behind it. It needs to be spot on. and not just good enough.

 

[koda2000]

I think you mean 10 over (not under) and there's no way to know how many thousandths over you'll end up with until the machining is done. .030 is pretty common. If you haven't even seen the condition of your pistons yet, how do you know you'll need to replace them?

Rebuilding an engine requires a decent bit of knowledge, special tools, a surgically clean area to work and experience. As you admittedly don't have any/much experience you're home rebuild could end up with a engine that is less reliable rather than more reliable. If this is the case, I'd recommend buying a rebuilt engine from a reliable source (someone like Jasper Engine and Transmission, or Powertrain). Speaking of transmissions, I think I'd be more concerned about your 206,000 mile transmission holding up to a 7,000 mile trip while pulling a 5,000 lb trailer through the mountains.

Also keep in mind that the kind of things that may leave you stranded that are engine related are things like the starter, alternator, radiator, belt, hoses, belt pulleys/tensioner, water pump, thermostat and the battery. You know the condition and maintenance history of your vehicle better than anyone else. I'm not trying to scare you out of you adventure, just playing devil's advocate.

 

[SupaSwope]

This is a long process here. I Started with the brakes. Master Cylinder, Booster Adjustment, Pads, Rotors, Front Bearings. I'm putting stuff together for the suspension rebuild. That will be both sway bars, links and bushings, leaf springs, shocks, controls arms, tie rods, cam bolts, etc. The engine and transmission are next.

To be honest I'm not a complete dummy when it comes to rebuilding engines. There's just gaps in my knowledge where I don't fully grasp everything yet. But I will get there. I get it. I'm inexperienced and there's a chance of me messing something up. But that's how we learn. And I am never gonna learn by just talking about it, reading repair manuals, and watching youtube videos. I gotta get my hands dirty eventually.

As far as drive belt systems and accessories go. 9/10 things have been replaced by me or previous owner. Water pump, houses, Theromstat (has 185 now not 195), power steering pump, both idler pullys, alternator, battery, I have a tensionor pully that haven't put on yet. Everything outside the engine has been replaces besides a few sensors and plugs and wires and coil packs but that would be done in the new build.

So basically from the information I am getting I will just get a Reman. I looked at jaspers reman and its 2800. One from ebay is 2200 Shipped. I have sent an email to jaspers for more information.

As far as the transmission goes its in good shape other then the slip into OD. And its only noticeable at 45mph going in OD. Not really any other speed is noticeable but its still there. So as far as I am concerned right now the tranny is fine other then the TC. But I have thought about replacing the whole thing too. There only about $1300 for what I sall.

Koda I appreciate you giving me some real advice on the reality of the process. I am a good parts hanger. I can replace stuff and bolt it back up to spec pretty dang easy. And ill admit that's the easy part of working on cars or trucks. But I gotta get my hands dirty with the engine and transmission and this is gonna be my first taste. Gotta learn eventually and since I cant buy a new truck I have got to fix this one myself.

 

[Turdle]

Just a "beware" for you.
Be very careful when pulling the lower intake, water pump and timing cover's off. Bolts will break, and are hard to come by new.

 

[CDW6212R]

For that very long 5000lbs towing trip, the transmission cooling is not likely up to it, even when brand new. The trans at that mileage is the next weakest link, and the engine is minor. For towing the trans is far far more important than the engine, and the OEM cooling is barely adequate for any heavy towing, and that's only for shorter distances.

I know I pushed my luck when I went 175 miles to tow home my 99 Limited, with a car trailer(with brakes), from NC(the steep hills between there and here). I went slow and it did great everywhere but that one long grade of about a mile. I think it was in 2nd gear most of that hill, at around 40mph or so.

I suggest working on getting the trans rebuilt, and at that time R&R the rear main seal. The engine should do fine with simply replacing everything on the front, including the timing chain. That alone might take close to a week depending on problems, like with the WP bolts.

The towing ability is a big subject by itself. These trucks are not ideal for towing heavy loads like 5000 pounds. They have a small trans cooler, but that should be much bigger for serious towing. The trans needs to be in excellent condition if not rebuilt, and at least with new solenoids and all VB upgrades. Sonnax makes some very good stuff, install what they have.

You have plenty of time to get your truck ready, well done for what you have done so far, and for planning this far ahead.