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New guy need help please

Tazkb

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June 22, 2011
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City, State
Bolton Lancashire UK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997
Hi people
I have just got my first explorer here in ole blighty a 1997 model with 78k on the clock, now I have a couple of problems:
1: sounds like n/s or passenger side here in the UK has a bearing dying and the ABS light is permenantly on ?
2: the heater always feels at best warm, it gets hot but never cool ? and the A/C don't seem to work ?
3: the check Gauge light is always on as well ?

the car has an LPG conversion, runs better on lpg than petrol so I'm guessing it needs an engine service, plugs,filters etc ? I can get the wheel bearing sorted which might sort the ABS light but the heater is my main worry as it's always hot? and it's bloody summer here :rolleyes: typical, I intend keeping this truck as my shootin bus so I need to get it right
please help someone
thanks
 
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SmoothJimmy

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Novato, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT 5.0L AWD
What's a 'shootin bus' ? It sounds sinister.

Have your DTC codes read with an OBD2 reader. That may help explain the CEL.

Which engine/drivetrain do you have?
 
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Tazkb

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Bolton Lancashire UK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997
naa nothing sinister just use for getting round the fields when we go shootin pigeons :p: the car is a 4.0L V6 petrol ?
1997 UK model
 
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03whtexpsprt

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Try replacing your thermostat and thermostat gasket and flush your radiator/cooling system and put NEW coolant in....see if that takes care of your heating problem....as far as your a/c....turn you temp to cold and put your a/c on max...pop your hood and see if the a/c compressor clutch is spinning and clicking on and off....if it is then you just need to recharge your system....if the clutch is NOT spinning then you will need to replace the whole compressor....
 
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bobflood

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City, State
Powder Springs, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Eddie Bauer V8 2WD
2: the heater always feels at best warm, it gets hot but never cool ? and the A/C don't seem to work ?
3: the check Gauge light is always on as well ?

but the heater is my main worry as it's always hot? and it's bloody summer here :rolleyes: typical, I intend keeping this truck as my shootin bus so I need to get it right
please help someone
thanks

Heat/AC issue may well be the blend door - that is how temperature control is done and you will find lots of threads re blend door repair.

The "Check Guage" light comes on to tell you to look at one of your guages, because one of them is supposedly out of range (eg temp too high; oil pressure too low, etc). Any of them off??
 
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RomeovilleIL

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City, State
Illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 LTD, 00 XLT
Try replacing your thermostat and thermostat gasket and flush your radiator/cooling system and put NEW coolant in....see if that takes care of your heating problem....as far as your a/c....turn you temp to cold and put your a/c on max...pop your hood and see if the a/c compressor clutch is spinning and clicking on and off....if it is then you just need to recharge your system....if the clutch is NOT spinning then you will need to replace the whole compressor....

+1 on thermostat if the heater never seems to get "hot" assuming your coolant levels are full

As for the A/C if the clutch turns on and the lines get cold but no cold air in the cabin, then blend door problem.

If the clutch does not engage when you turn on max a/c then you have to figure out why. Usually it is because of low or no refrigerant in the system. A cheap charging hose with a pressure meter will give you an instant answer if that is the problem (must have a can of 144a attached, but not pierced when you hook it up).

BTW - Before people say how crappy these guages are I'm only saying they are good for testing, not for metering new refrigerant charges.

If the system is low, you can try adding the can of refrigerant by piercing the valve and openning the can to the system. Do not overcharge the system. Chances are good the clutch will turn on and start circulating. If the lines get cold then the fun of finding your leak can begin.

If the clutch does not engage but the system is already full or nearly so, then you have either a bad pressure sensor, bad clutch, or bad a/c control unit in the cabin. Each has its own testing and replacement procedures which can be found by searching the forum or reading a repair manual.

The other possibility is the clutch turns and the lines do not get cold. This can be a bad compressor, not enough refrigerant, a blocked line, or other fun problems. You can test the refrigerant level as noted above. The pressure should fluctuate by 5 or so lbs during normal cycling of the compressor. If pressure says constant, then the compressor is not circulating coolant and needs to be changed. Bad compressors also tend to make themselves known with grinding or soft metalic noises. Blocked lines are tough to decifer other than seeing pressure change dramatically on the guage as the compressor runs, either seeing it keeps dropping on the low side (high pressure side block) or spiking up (low pressure side block). Keep in mind the a/c system is closed so if there is a block something bad has happened! Often as not the compressor lost lubrication and throws metal shaving or even big chunks through the system until they lodge somewhere. If the system had been openned previously, it could also be moisture which froze in the condensor or exchange.

Good Luck!
 
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Tazkb

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City, State
Bolton Lancashire UK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997
Thanks guys
does anyone know where I can download a free workshop manual and also a full parts diagram, that way it is easier to locate the parts I need to work on and see where they are and what they look like please ?
I have a feeling the blend door is responsible for certain issues, I have put my hand on the white servo box in the heater under the dash and can feel the servo work but it sometimes clicks as though it's jumping cogs and therefore could indicate a stuck blend door ?
the heater by the way gets hot no problem, but it doesn't get cold, also the is no air comming from the center and side vents no matter where i set the switch ?
thanks
 
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RomeovilleIL

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98 LTD, 00 XLT
Does sound like a broken blend door or bad actuator, but still should pop the hood open and run the a/c to be sure it is working properly under the hood.

There is a good blend door and actuator sticky in this forum. I recommend the bottom cut method for quick cheap door replacement.
 
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Tazkb

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Bolton Lancashire UK
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1997
" bottom cut method" WHAT's that :rolleyes:
and where is the thread about the blend door i can't find it sorry ?
 
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03whtexpsprt

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If your system does have an ac leak and you cant find it try running some uv dye thru it and check all the lines and your ac condenser for a leak (to check for dye you will need a black light)...also try what I said earlier for your heat problem by replacing your thermostat and gasket and flush your radiator/ whole coolant system...you will need some gasket sealer for when you re-do the gasket...(make sure you scrape off all the old gasket...apply the sealer to both sides of the gasket...light coat only)...either pull the freeze plug or disconnect the low side (the big 2 1/4 in hose or whatever size it may be) hose from the radiator(ONLY DO THIS WHEN YOUR SYSTEM IS COOL!! UNLESS YOU WANT A CRACKED BLOCK/ HEAD!!). Once its done draining take a hose and run some water thru the radiator untill it comes out clear (usually for about a min or 2)...then connect the hose or twist back in your plug and fill back to a 50/50 coolant mix (or whatever you want the mix to be/ is recommended...I'd stick with the 50/50 coolant mix) fill up the radiator all the way untill all the bubbles come out. Put the cap back on and fill your overflow to the full/ hot mark...start up your explorer and let it run with the heat on full blast for about 10 to 15 mins and keep an eye on your overflow tank and temp gauge (to see if the thermostat opened up properly...they are known to be bad rite out of the box sometimes)...you WILL need to add some more mix....then keep an eye on the level of the overflow for the next day or two....add more mix if needed.
 
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cowchaser

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1999 Sport
My abs light came on not to long ago. Drove it to the store and came out and it was on. Had the code read and ended up being the rear center speed sensor. Part cost me 28 bucks and took longer to crawl under the vehicle than it did to replace it. If that is the problem keep in mind I don't know hardly anything about cars and was able to replace it myself with no problems.
 
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Tazkb

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Bolton Lancashire UK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997
thanks guys, I have just bought a N/S wheel hub as it needs at least a bearing and i'm hoping that when the hub is replaced it might sort the abs problem.
as for the blend door I will try the fix. I'm thinking of doing a few things to tart it up a bit inc making a rear parcel shelf and fitting some sub bass units and amps in there:D
 
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