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Explorer Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer, ST, Sport, Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Started by cutting just under the lip of the door
What a pain in the ass this was. There is about 3 or 4 different layers of sheet metal through our this area.
The initial cut was done with a die grinder and cutting disc. I peeled back the sheet metal then cut the next with a plasma, peeled that back then cut the rest with a combination of plasma and sawsall. If that helps.
I'm not sure how well this would work for your rig. But there was a mod people were doing some years ago. On top of the stock leaf stack you would add the top leaf from a Ranger leaf set. Then cut the eyes off the original top leaf. It was supposed to allow for a softer ride, to a point. Never did it so I can't vouch for it. I think it was called The Zimmerman mod. Look it up.
Has anyone used air shocks on their SAS'd explorer? I'm not really happy with the front coils on the navajo. Way too soft. Scary soft. I've been looking at Sway A Way 2.5 air shocks. Anyone have any advice on these? Only thing I've heard is that they are used best on lighter crawlers. The Navajo is pretty light now. And I plan on going fiberglass front end so it will be even lighter.
Its either air shocks or coil overs, they are just so dammed expensive.
I'm probably going to move the front coils to the rear and run a similar radius arm set up.
if your worried about being soft you should stay away from the air shocks. they can be extremely soft. which is the reason why most of the guys that run on the street go to coilovers.
your weight range is fine for airshocks but you would probably need some kind of sway bar for the street if the leafs feel soft.
Have you thought about just getting some good quality rebuildable/valvable shocks under the front? You want soft springs for crawling so it can flex easily, but a well-valved shock will do wonders in controlling how quickly the suspension will compress and rebound. You can find some good deals on used King/Fox/Swayaway/Bilstein/Radflo/etc. shocks and they are easy to rebuild and valve to exactly what you want. That's the route I would go if it were my truck.
Thanks for the great info guys. Wasn't aware that air shocks are also soft. I think if I get a sway bar it will help a lot.
Something I just thought of. Does it matter which end is up on a typical shock? I'm running nitrogen procomp shocks with the body up. Could that cause the softness? It almost feels like the shocks aren't doing anything.
Thanks for the great info guys. Wasn't aware that air shocks are also soft. I think if I get a sway bar it will help a lot.
Something I just thought of. Does it matter which end is up on a typical shock? I'm running nitrogen procomp shocks with the body up. Could that cause the softness? It almost feels like the shocks aren't doing anything.
Good point. These bead Locked swampers are not light. I'm still deciding on spare mount location. I made a mock up spare last night out of ply wood. I'll do some trial fitment and see where the best location is. Remember there still needs to be room for my ice chest and tool box.
If I need to get to the spare I hope I have some buddies with me.