new to me 1996 explorer from grandma ignition issues , many parts changed

[koda2000]

For your shaking at idle... did you ever do a compression test? You may have one cylinder that is not functioning at full efficiency (bad valve, bad piston/rings).

 

[96eb96]

Next question guys is I’m still getting a lot of cabin vibrations when idling. Feels like shaking back and forth . Fuel trims are good very low mostly 0.0 is there anything I’m missing or **** it it’s 22 years old drive it till she dies? Muffler is shot can see rust and seams letting loose. Getting flowmaster 40 welded on now that she runs maybe will help. Just wondering about shaky idle. Prob just cosmetic issue now as all reading look good.

All the time? Startup? Hot?

 

[96eb96]

You may have to graduate to a real scanner now, like Forscan. It is only 20 bucks and you run it on a laptop. We can look into misfire counts.

 

[eric mentzer]

All the time just an annoying vehicle vibration. Only noticable at idle. I did not check gap on new spark plugs when i put in. Is that critical? Came from autozone they looked it up but just thought worth mentioning.

 

[eric mentzer]

Also does ac system have a pressure switch? Comp wont engage. I ordered fitting so i can get my guages on.

 

[koda2000]

It has a Hgh Pressure switch and a Low Pressure switch.

 

[96eb96]

Platinum motorcraft plugs are usually set right.

Maybe you can seafoam the engine? They have a spray that is easy to use. You could have carbon buildup. You can also run a few gummount or tectron cleaner bottles.

A/C is probably leaking. The low pressure cutoff switch won't let the compressor start. If it leaks you can try dye and UV, I had to replace my evaporator.

 

[koda2000]

Never trust the gap on spark plugs. Always check them, because you never know if some fumble-fingered parts person has managed to drop them. Also, I've found that every Motorcraft/Autolite spark plug I've ever bought has been gaped a bit wide, and with use they're only going to get wider (especially on the driver's side/bank2). It's amazing how much more worn the bank2 spark plugs wear, due to the wasted-spark ignition system. I've now decided that the bank2 spark plugs should be replaced at 50k intervals, where the bank1 plugs can go the 100k suggested change interval. I also think that the minimum type of plug to be used in our engines is double platinum. Iridium's for maximum plug life.

Check this out. These plugs have the same number of miles. Can you figure out which ones came out of bank2?

I'm not a believer in the Sea Foam treatment either (and if done wrong you can hydro-lock you engine and bend rods). If you want to clean your fuel injectors and intake valves use Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner at every oil change (or at couple of times of year), but as I suggested earlier if I were you the first thing I'd do is a compression test to rule out mechanical issues.

 

[96eb96]

I have the Denso Iridium plugs in my sig and it idles like a new car. I had some advance discounts and they were very little in cost. They are similar to the Motorcraft finewires but have an iridium tip at both ends. They are great for waste spark or COP. They are OEM on Toyota and Lexus cars.
They are gapped to .044 (perfectly, with a protector sleeve). Probably fine to leave it at that, because they are so efficient. I gapped them a bit wider but you have to be VERY careful. The tips can't contact any metal.

You should be fine with a good quality plug. Another thing is when you install the plugs in those crazy positions, you risk cracking one and causing misfires.

Seafoam has a can with a aerosol now, and there are other products like that are required for direct injection. It is very difficult to hydrolock with that can. You are fogging the intake. If you suck down 8oz from a vacuum line, yeah, you got a big problem.

 

[koda2000]

I have the Denso Iridium plugs in my sig and it idles like a new car. I had some advance discounts and they were very little in cost. They are similar to the Motorcraft finewires but have an iridium tip at both ends. They are great for waste spark or COP. They are OEM on Toyota and Lexus cars.
They are gapped to .044 (perfectly, with a protector sleeve). Probably fine to leave it at that, because they are so efficient. I gapped them a bit wider but you have to be VERY careful. The tips can't contact any metal.

You should be fine with a good quality plug. Another thing is when you install the plugs in those crazy positions, you risk cracking one and causing misfires.

Seafoam has a can with a aerosol now, and there are other products like that are required for direct injection. It is very difficult to hydrolock with that can. You are fogging the intake. If you suck down 8oz from a vacuum line, yeah, you got a big problem.

Re Sea Foam. Yes, with the aerosol can you don't have to be concerned amount getting too much in there at one time, but when I pulled the intake off my job 2 SOHC and looked inside, there's no way Sea Foam is going to have much effect on removing the carbon build-up that accumulates in there. I had to scub the hell out of it to just get it "clean enough". Then there's all the oil that that you typically find in the bottom of the intake. As far as I can determine, the only place it can be coming from is the PCV valve (and maybe blow-by on an engine with close to 200k on it). I should note that this particular engine had little-to-no maintenance during it's life-time before I got it. Funny thing is it never smokes and uses virtually no oil between changes now that I replaced the PCV valve.

 

[96eb96]

Funny thing is it never smokes and uses virtually no oil between changes now that I replaced the PCV valve.

Ford PCVs have a 50K Interval. I think the first change is free per the emission warranty.

 

[96eb96]

Re Sea Foam. Yes, with the aerosol can you don't have to be concerned amount getting too much in there at one time, but when I pulled the intake off my job 2 SOHC and looked inside, there's no way Sea Foam is going to have much effect on removing the carbon build-up that accumulates in there. .

Don't know about seafoam, but some of the new spray products for direct injection clean no-start level buildup. CRC is one. They are like 90% PEA.

 

[koda2000]

Ford PCVs have a 50K Interval. I think the first change is free per the emission warranty.

Well at 184k I guess mine was slightly overdue to be changed.