new to me 1996 explorer from grandma ignition issues , many parts changed

[eric mentzer]

greetings. got a 1996 explorer 4wd control trac 87K miles off granny for a grand. she got catarachts, original owner. she always fired it up with foot on the gas. issue being upon startup, (10 % of the time or less) idles rough as hell not peaking past 500 rpms and chug a lugs along for a bit and dies. usually comes right back but once left me sit for half hour. repairs made since i obtained from granny, Plugs, wires, idle control valve, mass air flow sensor, o2 sensor since was throwing fault, which cleared, no faults on obd2. also did fuel filter and fuel pump relay. still every once in a while chugs likes a ***** and stalls at low rpm. very intermittent not sure what to approach next. hvac service tech here so i know my way around heating and cooling equip but im new on the automotive spectrum. thank you guys like i said it starts great 90% of time but usually after a good drive it struggles upon cooling and refiring like going to the store or what have you. low rpms no engine lights.

 

[eric mentzer]

greetings. got a 1996 explorer 4wd control trac 87K miles off granny for a grand. she got catarachts, original owner. she always fired it up with foot on the gas. issue being upon startup, (10 % of the time or less) idles rough as hell not peaking past 500 rpms and chug a lugs along for a bit and dies. usually comes right back but once left me sit for half hour. repairs made since i obtained from granny, Plugs, wires, idle control valve, mass air flow sensor, o2 sensor since was throwing fault, which cleared, no faults on obd2. also did fuel filter and fuel pump relay. still every once in a while chugs likes a ***** and stalls at low rpm. very intermittent not sure what to approach next. hvac service tech here so i know my way around heating and cooling equip but im new on the automotive spectrum. thank you guys like i said it starts great 90% of time but usually after a good drive it struggles upon cooling and refiring like going to the store or what have you. low rpms no engine lights.

 

[eric mentzer]

otherwise this girl runs like a raped date just trying to figure her out

 

[J_C]

I'd hook up an OBDII scan tool (or dongle linked to phone or tablet) capable of displaying live running data and look at the fuel trim #s and see if any codes are pending.

Also check battery voltage, a weak battery can make it run poor for a little while when cold. If it also cranks slow you might need the battery terminals cleaned.

After replacing the MAF did you disconnect the battery to reset the ECM and make it relearn? That should be done.

 

[eric mentzer]

New battery in july and new clean terminals

 

[96eb96]

I'm sure it is something minor, 96 is a great truck.
I suggest changing the idler pulley for preventative maintenance, it is a failure point(many had it fail years ago). Cheap insurance. It is very easy to get to.

Like JC said, check your fuel trims. You may want to get Forscan Software, it is free, works great with your 96, you just need an inexpensive Ford compatible bluetooth OBD adapter. It can scan all systems (including 4x4 on the truck). forscan.org

You can check the BARO pid using that software, it will make sure your MAF is working(even replacements sometimes are bad). Fuel pressure could also cause these issues, that may show up in your fuel trims.

 

[Spudhut]

@96eb96 - which software do you recommend? iPhone or Windows version? Will this give trans codes as well?

Anyone know if there are links available for those who have used the software ?

Id like to pick up something like this for my Explorers for better diagnostics

 

[fastpakr]

The Forscan software that 96eb96 recommended works great. You can even reprogram your PATS keys with it if you're down to 1 (or clearing and starting with a new set of keys like I'll be doing with the V8 swap). Check out What's new for more info. The adapters are $10-20 at Amazon depending on whether you want a true ELM327 or a knockoff, bluetooth vs wired, etc.

 

[J_C]

Carefully read the OBDII adapter dongle reviews on Amazon. Many products which claim something like "Works on all '96 and newer OBDII vehicles" do NOT work on vehicles using the old J1850 protocol that this generation of Explorer uses.

First one I bought was a cheap tiny translucent blue type, works fine with CAN bus on my '14 Explorer but won't do J1850 on a Ford or GM it was tried on, but was so cheap that I kept it anyway. I pried it open (this tiny type is glued not screwed together) to see if it was defective and they had just not populated the areas of the circuit board that were needed for J1850, specifically that whole area and only that, like it was deliberate.

Second try was a BAFX from Amazon which works on everything.

 

[96eb96]

@96eb96 - which software do you recommend? iPhone or Windows version? Will this give trans codes as well?

Anyone know if there are links available for those who have used the software ?

Id like to pick up something like this for my Explorers for better diagnostics

Windows has the most functionality. You can do bi-directional, and it is free. Next best would be IDS or something like a Verus. I think it can even bleed the ABS system (definitely diagnose it without guessing).

The mobile versions just read codes and data (for now, no tests or bi-directional).

This is where to download.

Download FORScan

 

[96eb96]

BAFX is the one I use. Not the cheapest, but it always works. I worked with the author, we tested some advanced features on that adapter, I can assure it works on our trucks. I have the Android dash thing and it updates a full screen of gauges instantaneously.

 

[Spudhut]

I would like to have something that will give instant updates on my iPhone like your Android thing....I have a good OBD2 reader; I'd like to have something that gives off a little more information

As for PC/windows solution, this would be the way to go for me.

 

[96eb96]

I would like to have something that will give instant updates on my iPhone like your Android thing....I have a good OBD2 reader; I'd like to have something that gives off a little more information

As for PC/windows solution, this would be the way to go for me.

The iphone should work the same, but it must have a wifi reader. May cost a few bucks, I did testing with the author so I have an older free version(works fine), but I will probably buy the app because he put so much into it. I can show things like my 4x4 clutch %age with the app (about 100 other GEM parameters, great for troubleshooting little things). The windows app could SET or Lock the clutch, there is a control to do so, but I never did. It is possible to sniff the codes (I've done it for ABS) and probably write an app to control the transfer case, or have an AWD graphic like a new car.

 

[Spudhut]

Thank you @96eb96

 

[eric mentzer]

found a possible issue, it cranked and fired then died instantly, no power at all. lost radio presets etc. then came back in 5 mins. found a loose negative terminal on battery, screw clamp is cranked in all the way but i can move the clamp somewhat easily back and forth. think this may explain intermittent issue? new terminals going on tomorrow.

 

[eric mentzer]

oh an 96eb96, your right that idler pulley is wobbling pretty darn good

 

[96eb96]

found a possible issue, it cranked and fired then died instantly, no power at all. lost radio presets etc. then came back in 5 mins. found a loose negative terminal on battery, screw clamp is cranked in all the way but i can move the clamp somewhat easily back and forth. think this may explain intermittent issue? new terminals going on tomorrow.

Yep, sounds right. I think mine had nut on the screw, I remember taking it off and I was able to tighten it more. Was so long ago though....

 

[96eb96]

oh an 96eb96, your right that idler pulley is wobbling pretty darn good

Glad you found it now and not on the side of the road at 2AM! I replaced my tensioner assembly too, wasn't expensive from an online dealer. If the pulley checks out and there is sufficient tension against the belt, it is fine. You could also change the pulley separately , it should be around $10.

Other inexpensive suggestions:
A hayden 679 Trans cooler, it installs nicely with brackets on the radiator support. Keep your trans nice and cool in the summer, it can use all the help it can get. That thing got boiling hot going up the hills here. Make sure to flare or dimple the ends of the old tubes so the rubber lines don't pop off. (you said you are an HVAC guy, so you should know). Plumb into lower radiator tube.
A trans pan with a drain plug, so you can easily exchange fluid once a year or at some OCI. You get to change the filter too when you change the pan.
Also, inspect brake and PS lines for rust, they leak.

 

[tiberius]

greetings. got a 1996 explorer 4wd control trac 87K miles off granny for a grand. she got catarachts, original owner. she always fired it up with foot on the gas. issue being upon startup, (10 % of the time or less) idles rough as hell not peaking past 500 rpms and chug a lugs along for a bit and dies. usually comes right back but once left me sit for half hour. repairs made since i obtained from granny, Plugs, wires, idle control valve, mass air flow sensor, o2 sensor since was throwing fault, which cleared, no faults on obd2. also did fuel filter and fuel pump relay. still every once in a while chugs likes a ***** and stalls at low rpm. very intermittent not sure what to approach next. hvac service tech here so i know my way around heating and cooling equip but im new on the automotive spectrum. thank you guys like i said it starts great 90% of time but usually after a good drive it struggles upon cooling and refiring like going to the store or what have you. low rpms no engine lights.

greetings. got a 1996 explorer 4wd control trac 87K miles off granny for a grand. she got catarachts, original owner. she always fired it up with foot on the gas. issue being upon startup, (10 % of the time or less) idles rough as hell not peaking past 500 rpms and chug a lugs along for a bit and dies. usually comes right back but once left me sit for half hour. repairs made since i obtained from granny, Plugs, wires, idle control valve, mass air flow sensor, o2 sensor since was throwing fault, which cleared, no faults on obd2. also did fuel filter and fuel pump relay. still every once in a while chugs likes a ***** and stalls at low rpm. very intermittent not sure what to approach next. hvac service tech here so i know my way around heating and cooling equip but im new on the automotive spectrum. thank you guys like i said it starts great 90% of time but usually after a good drive it struggles upon cooling and refiring like going to the store or what have you. low rpms no engine lights.

try checking coil ..wear a leather glove and while engine is running pull wires one at a time check for a good hearty continuous spark ..no misses..if good replace and check the rest the same way..also if when you pull a wire it doesnt effect how the car runs you may have an issue there..clean the ground connection for the coil pack too..

 

[eric mentzer]

update, truck at ford dealer now. they think the rpms are dropping due to the torque converter? asked about fuel trims and they gave me the runaround no real answer. getting 6 mpg now on truck. any thoughts? said egr holding vacuum and no vacuum leaks.

so far got new plugs, wires, maf sensor, iac valve, fuel filer, fuel pump relay, idler pulley and belt tensioner, battery,
thanks guys

also trans has been replaced before, has a big orange sticker on it with the model and saying attention do not return etc etc.