New Toy

[Kjhadfield]

Here you go koda.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/projects.asp?VIEW=174&WRENCHES=1&PageHeader=

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1260123

I don't know what it is about your links to the projects section that actually allow me to see the full project. Otherwise I only get to see very beginning paragraphs or steps and the rest is blank/empty

What's your trick?

 

[swshawaii]

Honestly bro, the key is Google searching the right words. I remember the liners being discussed some time ago
on MyST. In this case I searched "MySporttrac fender liners", and those were the first two links that appeared.

 

[just1me]

You can pretty much search any website on google by simply putting in the search term followed by the website like this - splash guard site:www.mysporttrac.com or say for this site - splash guard site:www.explorerforum.com

I do it sometimes because I can also click on images and find pictures that fit those search terms on the specific site as well.

 

[swshawaii]

Agree clicking images can be very useful, especially when you remember a pic being posted and need to find it.

Sorry about the off topic thread jack koda. There's a sticky in the New Member sub forum
titled "Useful things to know while using the Forum and the Search Function". Done.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2471556&postcount=2

 

[Kjhadfield]

I like to scroll the myst project index (not searching for anything in particular) but majority of the links don't show the whole project, the reason for my question.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
Changed my passenger side valve cover gasket today. To those of you who said it wasn't that bad of a job and easier of the two to change, I say ha!

Removed the plug wires from the coil for 1, 2 and 3 - easy
Removed the PCV and crankcase vent hoses - pretty easy
Removed the six weird bolts from the valve cover - not so easy
Found that the TB coolant hose had to be disconnected as it goes over the VC - crap
Removed the lower radiator air deflector to access the radiator drain neatly - easy
Drained 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator into a clean container - slow, but easy
Disconnected the TB coolant hose at metal piping - difficult, really stuck on
Disconnected the fuel injector wire connectors for cyl 1, 2 and 3 - PITA
Disconnected the vacuum line that runs over the valve cover - easy
Unplugged and rerouted the MAF harness, which also ran tightly over the VC - PITA
Began wrestling with the valve cover and couldn't get it off - aggravating
Found I had to move/remove the metal heater hose supply/return lines - PITA
Was finally able to twist and turn the valve cover off. Phew!

I was surprised to see that the cylinder head/cam area was not so dirty. No sludge at all, so either the 2 oil changes with engine flush worked, or it was just the lower oil pan that was full of sludge. I'll flush it again before the next oil change.

Old VC gasket was dry and brittle, but I think the majority of the oil was leaking from the bolt grommets. Cleaned the inside/outside of the VC thoroughly, replaced the gasket and grommets, cleaned the cylinder head mating surface and put everything back together.

All-in-all It'd rate this job 4 wrenches, just because of all the stuff you have to remove/disconnect. I actually think changing the water pump in the '97 Saturday may have been easier. I didn't take note of when I started this job (i'd guess around 10?) but I wasn't done w/tools put away until 3:30, so it definitely took longer than replacing the water pump.

I let the engine run in the driveway for about 40 mins. No sign of a leak, but I'm not 100% sure about the driver's side VC gasket. I'm not planning on messing with it unless it's leaking. I wonder how long it will take the passenger side exhaust manifold to stop smoking & stinking?

 

[just1me]

Yea the passenger side valve cover gasket was harder and took longer to change for me also than the driver's side. There is barely any wiggle room to get it out, and that back bottom valve cover bolt was a nuisance, unplugging the injectors wasn't to easy either. Driver's side only trouble I had was just getting enough slack in the fuel line to remove the valve cover, I had to remove a bracket below the head holding the fuel line.

 

[koda2000]

Yea the passenger side valve cover gasket was harder and took longer to change for me also than the driver's side. There is barely any wiggle room to get it out, and that back bottom valve cover bolt was a nuisance, unplugging the injectors wasn't to easy either. Driver's side only trouble I had was just getting enough slack in the fuel line to remove the valve cover, I had to remove a bracket below the head holding the fuel line.

I was looking at the driver's side this evening. There's an awful lot of stuff to remove, but it looks like it might be easier to get off than the passenger side. IDK, I think I'll get it up on the ramps tomorrow and see if the driver's side looks like it's leaking. The passenger side was leaking like crazy, even wet the starter down pretty good.

Did you need to take the EGR tube off for the driver's side?

 

[just1me]

I don't remember having to take it off, I might have. If so I would just take it loose from the intake with the 2 bolts that hold it on, rather than wrestling with the tube itself. I didn't have to disconnect any fuel injectors on the drivers side, mainly it was just unplugging and removing stuff off the top of the valve cover.

 

[Kjhadfield]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379896

This is the thread I read that has some details

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I found a great price on Mercon V, Castrol Mercon V at Advance for $4 a quart. Most store get $6.19 a quart. I don't know if this is a sale price, but I'll pick some up tomorrow.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...n+v&vehicleIdSearch=48940&searchedFrom=header

I had to buy it on-line to get the $4 price, but it will be shipped to my local store, which seems dumb as my local store has plenty of it in stock, but whatever.

Thanks for the heads-up on this deal! I just picked up 12 qts for $28 + tax. 12 x $4 = $48, minus the $20 Speed Perks Reward I had = $28. Can't beat that! $4.00 price is good through Sept, but you might have to order online and pick it up at the store to get that price. Of course the 2 stores nearest me didn't have more than 2 qts, but I had another errand near the one that did.

Anyone buying from Advance Auto and not signed up for their Speed Perks program is really missing out. I used to go straight to O'Reilly's, but the Speed Perks at Advance has changed that.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
Well, I came out this morning and still had a small puddle of oil on the driveway (about 1/2 half of what I usually find). I checked underneath and found that the starter was actually on the driver's side and it was bathed in oil. I decided to bite the bullet and change the driver's side valve cover gasket too. It came off easier than the passenger side (once all the stuff mounted to it was removed). While the passenger side was not to dirty, the driver's side was gross. I'm assuming that all the sludge I found on the driver's side was due to the clogged PCV valve I changed back in July (most likely had never been changed in 184,000 miles). It took me a lot of time to clean out the VC , the sealing area on the head and I did the best I could to clean the cylinder head area. I will definitely do another flush with Amsoil Engine Flush soon. It will be a week before my hands are clean again, but another dirty job done dirt cheap ($14.50 for Felpro Perma-Dry VC gasket set with free shipping).

Apparently I didn't order my trans filter when I thought I did. Just ordered it for real and it supposed to be here on the 14th. That's okay, I need a few days off from this project. Doing those valve covers kicked my butt.

Update:
No oil on garage floor this morning - Hooray!

 

[koda2000]

Update:
I performed my transmission service today. I started by degreasing the undercarriage with Purple Power (man, I love that stuff). BTW, Thanks a lot Ford for clipping the cat heat shield to the trans pan. Once I got that figured out it went easily, but that's one messy-ass job. You've got the trans x-member in the rear and the catalytic converter in the front. I chose to drop the rear first thinking that was better than getting the cat full of oil. Then of course the oil runs down both sides of the trans x-member, but I was ready for it with my large drip pan and 2 drain pans. There was still a lot of oil in the drip pan. I spilled about a 1/4 qt of oil, but at least it ended up in the drip pan rather than on my driveway.

Once I installed the new Wix trans filter I cleaned the trans pan. The pan and magnet weren't too bad at all, but the fluid looked more like engine oil with 8,000 miles on it than trans fluid. No hint of pink (probably the original fluid w/184k on it). Then I figured out a good place to install the transmission drain, drilled the hole and installed the drain plug, reinstalled the pan and went and took a long shower. As I sit here writing this I just remembered I forgot to clip the heat shield back into place. I'll do that after dinner (with rubber gloves on to stay clean) and then refill the trans. 4 qts is what came out, so that's where I'll start putting it back in and adjust, as necessary, from there. Edit: Done. As I recall it was about a 1/2 qt low to begin with. As the fluid was so dirty, I figure I'll run this fluid for a while and then drain it (using my hand-dandy drain plug) and refill the trans with fresh fluid again.

I guess the driver's seat bottom replacement will be my next project, when I come up with the $200 for the new leather cover.

I'm thinking maybe I should replace my hydraulic chain tensioners. I see them on eBay for as little as $30 a pair (probably made in China). Does any one know a decent brand, or do you think I should stay with Motorcraft? I see RockAuto sells Cloyes for around $75 for both with new washers.

 

[Kjhadfield]

I'm thinking maybe I should replace my hydraulic chain tensioners. I see them on eBay for as little as $30 a pair (probably made in China). Does any one know a decent brand, or do you think I should stay with Motorcraft?

If eBay has for 30- just go to rockauto for a couple extra bucks

Edit: it's cloyes on ra

 

[koda2000]

If eBay has for 30- just go to rockauto for a couple extra bucks

Edit: it's cloyes on ra

Too slow. See my edit re Cloyes.

You wanna bet that RA ships them from 2 different warehouses?

 

[Kjhadfield]

Too slow. See my edit re Cloyes.

You wanna bet that RA ships them from 2 different warehouses?

I would have to disagree there sir your edit was 7 mins to late.

I was just going to edit that the eBay I noticed was for 2 @ 30$. I think I would go for ra even at the higher price. Based on the other member threads (I'm sorry street something 2000, I can't remember) that his opinion was that the replacement tensioners are "weaker" so I wouldn't chance it with an inferior product for something as critical as this. Don't get me wrong, I have no idea of the eBay quality- it may be good but 30$ for the pair yells cheap at me.

Edit: ok sorry 2000streetrod, I just couldn't think of it off the top of my head

 

[swshawaii]

These threads?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317039
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316665

Found in the MODIFIED 1995-01 sub forum.
Sticky: 2000StreetRod's Helpful thread list
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263665

 

[Kjhadfield]

Actually his opinion here (found on 1st link above) is that the cloyes tensioners may be of better quality/ stronger spring tension than ford

The left and right tensioners from Cloyes (shown below) appear to have been manufactured by Borg Warner. They seem to be of good quality and the spring pressure may be greater than that of the Ford ones I installed in my engine last year.

But not the same goes for the guides and other plastic by cloyes- from what I take from it.

Koda- I would definately go the rockauto route for the tensioners

 

[koda2000]

Actually his opinion here (found on 1st link above) is that the cloyes tensioners may be of better quality/ stronger spring tension than ford



But not the same goes for the guides and other plastic by cloyes- from what I take from it.

Koda- I would definately go the rockauto route for the tensioners

Yeah, I don't know about getting them through RA, but the Cloyes are looking pretty good to me. I'll have to do some price shopping w/shipping tomorrow.

 

[koda2000]

Does anyone know if there is anywhere you can get the oil restrictor tube as found in the 00M12 kit? For that matter, is the only place to get the 00M12 kit from Ford? I've tried Google'ing it but I don't see anywhere you can purchase it. I don't even see it offered from Tasca.

Edit: I just found this on eBay. It says it is compatible with an '01 Explorer 4.0L SOHC, but not an ST (same thing right?)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Timi...iter_Display:4.0L&hash=item541eee2a2b&vxp=mtr