Next project vehicle?

[2000StreetRod]

The modified intake tube does not align with the MAF sensor.

I'll probably have to modify the air filter box similar to what I did on my Sport.

The photo below shows the hose routing between the PCV valve and intake manifold.

At 1 is a 5/8 inch inside diameter flexible 90 degree elbow. At 2 is an Apex 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer that is actually 5/8 to about 7/16 inch. At 3 is the 3/8 inch diameter intake port. I used a 13/32 inch inside diameter oil hose that is slightly small at 2 and slightly large at 3.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I was afraid that I damaged the power steering pump high pressure hose assembly rotating seal when bending the rigid tube section away from the engine head. Since it would be much easier to replace the hose assembly now rather than after installing the cooling system and pre-oiler hoses I decided to test for leaks. The power steering pump pulley shaft accepts an 8 mm hex shaft.

I didn't have one on hand so I cut the "L" off an extra 8 mm Allen wrench. Then I used my 3/8 inch drill and right angle drive to rotate the pulley.

The fluid level in the reservoir is still dropping so I haven't yet purged all of the air out of the system but so far I have not detected any leaks.

 

[2000StreetRod]

For the heater control valve assembly supply I purchased a Dayco 80403 heater hose and a 5/8 inch hose coupler.

Then I cut the Explorer supply hose horizontal section leaving just enough to install the coupler. I cut each section of the Dayco 80403 to mate with the coupler on one end and a 60 degree -AN 10 fitting.

With the above configuration I can replace the spark plugs without disconnecting any heater related hoses and possibly even remove/install the valve covers.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The Mach 1 intake manifold vacuum port for the power brake booster is 5/8 inch diameter but I couldn't find any readily available 5/8 inch hose rated for vacuum. Since the port on the power brake booster is 3/8 inch diameter I tested my on hand series 400 hose rated for fuel, oil and coolant with my hand vacuum pump. At my pump maximum of 25 inch of Hg vacuum there was no indication of partial collapse so I installed a 5/8 inch flexible elbow (#1 in the photo below) and brass 5/8 to 3/8 inch reducer (#2 in the photo below) at the manifold.

I installed a brass Tee (#3 above) that routes vacuum to the power brake booster hose (#4 above) and the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve main hose. Shown just above the Tee is the semi-rigid small diameter vacuum control hose for the EVAP purge valve.
The photo below shows the EVAP canister purge valve with the hose from the fuel system (#1), the main hose to the intake manifold (#2), and the control hose.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Using vacuum parts from my Explorer and a Navigator I kluged together a vacuum manifold assembly for my DOHC V8. Item 1 below is a single 3/8 inch input to 3 way output adapter (two 1/8 and one 1/4 inch). Item 2 is a single 1/4 inch input to dual 1/8 inch output adapter.

Item 3 is a right angle connector to the fuel pressure sensor. Item 4 is a connector for the HVAC controls. Item 5 is a right angle connect to the ESM.

I haven't determined where I should connect the downstream DPFE sensor port (to intake manifold) shown below.

For now it is just capped because I don't understand its purpose.

 

[4pointslow]

Both these vacuum ports are supposed to get vacuum from the same place, just connect them together.
The bottom one is for the sensor, reference port(vacuum in intake).
The upstream is exhaust pressure when the egr is open and the sensor compares it to the downstream one to verify the egr is working.
The top one(egr vacuum source) as you know is vacuum supply for solenoid.

To clarify, the egr vacuum source and downstream port get vacuum from intake.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Thanks John. I was hoping that you would chime in. Earlier I found the following which is what confused me:

"Though the DPFE sensor on an ESM is referred to as “DPFE” by the scan tool and also wiring diagrams, it is not a traditional DPFE sensor as used on the older EGR system. It is actually two separate MAP sensors. One MAP sensor is used to measure EGR flow after the EGR valve seat and before the flow restrictor built into the EGR base gasket. The other MAP sensor is measuring manifold pressure. The MAP sensor that is actually measuring manifold pressure serves slightly more of a purpose than to just help figure out EGR flow.

This MAP sensor is also used to calculate BARO at KOEO. This does not mean that BARO is solely calculated from this MAP sensor. The Ford PCM still uses MAF while running at 3/4 or more throttle to update BARO. However, when the engine is at KOEO, the BARO will be changed to suit the MAP sensor in the ESM."

I assumed that since my Explorer PCM is set up for DPFE and not ESM then it would not utilize the additional MAP sensor. The ESM MAP sensor electrical output is not wired because there is no corresponding input on the Explorer PCM. Sadly, there are no vacuum diagrams in my Explorer or Aviator shop manuals that show the actual vacuum routing.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Below is a diagram of the Ford DPFE system with the orifice in the EGR tube and the port upstream and downstream of the orifice going to the differential sensor.

In Ford's ESM the orifice is moved to the inlet to the EGR valve although not shown in the diagram below.

The differential sensor measures the difference between the inlet to the EGR valve and the intake manifold. From what I've determined, later Ford added another sensor dedicated to the MAP signal to calculate BARO prior to engine start.

 

[4pointslow]

Since your truck doesn't have a map signal input terminal in the PCM, just hook the other three wires to the DPFE wires on your PCM.
You will also have to hook the solenoid wires up to of course.
I saw in the tune for my 1998, that I could select the type of EGR system, I am hoping you can just change type to ESM and have it work properly.
Was going to experiment with it myself but got pulled in 10 different other directions. LOL.

 

[4pointslow]

By the way, the ESM system was much more reliable since there was not any hot gases pushing into the sensor when the valve is closed.
It lasts longer because of that change.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The stock Explorer main intake is shown below. The outside diameter of the coils is about the same as the inside diameter of the Lightning intake.

So I cut off the section of the Explorer tube that mates with the MAF sensor leaving two of the coils.

Then I applied Shoe Goo between the two coils and inserted the section into the Lightning hose.

After the 24 hour drying time I tightened the hose clamp to reinforce the joint, applied vinyl conditioner to the Explorer section and installed the assembly. Thankfully, no modification of the air filter enclosure is needed due to the slight curve in the Explorer section.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The Explorer throttle body is shown below. The distance between the cruise control tab and the cable mounting bracket is 5.6 inches.

The square cutout is for the cruise control and the round cutout is for the throttle control. The Mach 1 bracket has the same cutouts.

However, one of the previous owners had deleted the tab for the backup throttle plate return spring. So I drilled a hole in the bracket for the spring.

The Explorer cruise control cable is about 1/8 inch short so the throttle plate does not return to the stop. The shop manual indicates there is no mechanical adjustment. However, the PCM may provide a slack adjustment via the stepper motor. If it doesn't I'll try bending the bracket. The Explorer throttle cable is excessively long so I configured a loop in it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The series 400 5/8 inch diameter oil hose I ordered finally arrived Tuesday so I cut it to fit and installed it with appropriate fittings. Hose 1 below with the check valve is the output from the remote filter block adapter and hose 2 is the return to the block from the remote filter.

The remote filter mount is shown below. The 90 degree fitting item 1 is the inlet to the filter from the check valve. Item 2 is the output from the filter that goes to the block.

Item 3 is the inlet to the remote filter from the pre-luber. Item 4 is the inlet to the pre-luber that will come from the oil pan when I cut and fit the 1/2 inch diameter series 400 hose.

 

[2000StreetRod]

About 2 weeks ago I completed the 4.6L DOHC head cooling and crossover delete mods. Today I cranked the starter and am pleased to report the engine immediately started and idled. I ran the pre-oiler for several minutes before cranking the starter and then confirmed oil pressure continued after starting via the engine oil pump.This has been a long project. I purchased the Lincoln Aviator block mid November, 2014. It took me a long time to rebuild the engine because the rod bolts on the Eagle rotating assembly are custom made by ARP and I had to wait for another production run. I started the 2003 Centennial 4.6L Engine Removal on Dec 8, 2017. The end of the project is finally approaching but there is still a lot to do. There are one or more exhaust leaks to isolate and correct. There is a slow leak at the high pressure fitting on the power steering pump even though I replaced the high pressure line/hose assembly. The cruise control cable is too short preventing the throttle plate from closing so the cable is temporarily disconnected. The service engine light is illuminated so I have to read the DTCs and act to eliminate them. I let the engine idle long enough to reach normal on the temperature gauge but I doubt it was long enough for the thermostat to open and for air to be purged from the block. Eventually, I'll datalog the engine head temperature to determine if my 180 degree thermostat results in the desired head temperature. I also need to add transmission fluid.

 

[4pointslow]

I cant wait to hear about your first test drive in it with the new set up!
Congratulations on the progress!

 

[boominXplorer]

Good to hear!!! You'll work out the kinks in no time!

 

[massacre]

It's not intercooled so boost can't go very high but I think the knock sensors can be retained.

Think again.
You would have to relocate the knock sensors, or have them removed in the tune.
To get the Terminator lower intake/intercooler to fit a Teksid, the knock sensor bosses and a couple other spots on the block need to be taken down with an angle grinder.

http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/TeksidTerminator/BlockWork/BlockWork.htm

Now you guys are talking my language- I have a lot of experience with 4v Modulars
4.0 OHV? Not as much but def more now after my head swap haha

 

[2000StreetRod]

At this point in my life (I'm 72) I doubt I'll ever add boost to the engine. My reflexes and vision are no longer good enough to safely drive fast. I was aware that due to physical interference the knock sensor bosses had to be removed to install the Cobra intake manifold and Roots type blower. For high performance I would not select a Roots type blower. When I installed an M90 on my 4.0L SOHC V6 it was mainly to improve low engine speed torque. My 2000 Sport weighs about 3900 lbs and should have been available with a V8 for decent stop and go acceleration. The 6 psi of boost significantly increased normal driving pleasure. However, even with intercooling, at mid to high engine speeds the timing advance (and associated power gain) had to be significantly reduced due to high intake air temperature. Also, I had to desensitize the knock sensor to reduce timing retard. High intake temperatures at high engine speeds seem less of a problem with centrifugal blowers. However, on my Volvo turbo wagon there was very little boost and associated acceleration improvement below 2500 rpm.

In my opinion the optimum way to achieve boost is with a variable speed centrifugal blower that maintains the desired amount of boost at engine speeds from around 1800 rpm to max. This is very difficult to achieve with a mechanical drive but is possible with an electric motor driven blower. However, the electrical system of a typical internal combustion engine powered vehicle would require extensive modifications to support the electric motor required to drive a blower. With the advances in electric vehicles driving performance is currently available. My next vehicle will probably be a plug in rechargeable electric SUV.

 

[massacre]

I understand completely, just wanted to post it up for future reference.

Just read through the whole thread, wow such a nice job! Good for you!
Exhaust leaks are common, no biggie.
Now I understand your cooling system has a lot more demands than mine, with heated PCV and heater control valves, etc. So I guess I read the cooling mod thread before this one, when I gave my advice on the cooling mod, I was trying to simplify things but now I understand what you were up against and that is anything but simple.

Thanks for posting

 

[2000StreetRod]

I took a few minutes today to switch on the ignition and read the DTCs:

P0405: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low. I anticipated some EGR issues since I'm using an EGR System Module (ESM) similar to the one used on an Aviator with characteristics that differ from those of the Explorer Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) system.
P1000: OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete. There may be additional DTCs once the monitor test is complete.

I was relieved that so far there are no sensor failure DTCs - especially the pre-cat O2 sensors with the difficult to access connectors. I guess it was worth the time to test all of the PCM connector pins for continuity to all the other connector pins in the new wiring harness I built.