No Cruise!!! Why???

[craftsman67]

I just snagged this up...I hope it works!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-05-FORD-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ec854f47&vxp=mtr

 

[onetime]

result, do yours light up? if so keep them for the bulbs

 

[craftsman67]

result, do yours light up? if so keep them for the bulbs

Will do...I'll let you know how they work.

 

[craftsman67]

Back to the drawing board... New switches didn't work. I still don't have any dash indicator light on the right side switches when I try the self-test...Can the clockspring be bad if the horn still works?...I might just give up!

 

[onetime]

check the wire connected to the servo, mine had worked loose. here in the uk its on the right hand side as you look at the engine behind the battery.
onetime

 

[craftsman67]

check the wire connected to the servo, mine had worked loose. here in the uk its on the right hand side as you look at the engine behind the battery.
onetime

On mine, the servo is on the left hand side, behind the windshield washer reservoir. Power to it, and the speed control switch is fine...I have a friend that is pretty good at wiring...I just need to stop by his house with a 12 pack, and get him to look at it for me...I should have done that to start with, but I'm hard headed...Lol.

 

[98ExplorerGuy]

Find the cruise control cable (not electrical; the mechanical wire cable which actuates the throttle) and trace it all the way to where it hooks on to the throttle (under the plastic cowling on my engine).

My cc wasn't working either; found that the "socket" part of the fitting at the end of the cable had broken and so there was no connection between the cable and the throttle. New cable costs $32.

Once had something similar happen with a Camry back in the early 90's...

 

[davidcd]

Hello Craftsman67 ,

The cc on my 98 Mountaineer is doing the same thing as yours : doesn't turn on / no indicator light (although it was working fine a week ago). So, I tried the self-test you mentioned and, likewise, I was not getting and light flashes from the right side control buttons.

I checked the wiring to the switch on the brake master cylinder (is that the 'deactivator switch' you mentioned in your 1st post?) and found a lot of brake fluid had gotten into the switch connector, one the wire harness, and into the in-line fuse holder. I cleaned the connections and the fuse as best I could with paper towel and put everything back in place.

Now, the diagnostic performs the single flash through all the buttons and returns a two flash code at the end. The code list I found on the internet says that two flashes means "Brake Pedal Position (BPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or brake pedal is applied". So, I guess I need to get a new master cylinder switch and maybe a new BPP switch.

I know you replaced just about every switch on you CC system - did you replace the BPP switch also?

 

[craftsman67]

Hello Craftsman67 ,

The cc on my 98 Mountaineer is doing the same thing as yours : doesn't turn on / no indicator light (although it was working fine a week ago). So, I tried the self-test you mentioned and, likewise, I was not getting and light flashes from the right side control buttons.

I checked the wiring to the switch on the brake master cylinder (is that the 'deactivator switch' you mentioned in your 1st post?) and found a lot of brake fluid had gotten into the switch connector, one the wire harness, and into the in-line fuse holder. I cleaned the connections and the fuse as best I could with paper towel and put everything back in place.

Now, the diagnostic performs the single flash through all the buttons and returns a two flash code at the end. The code list I found on the internet says that two flashes means "Brake Pedal Position (BPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or brake pedal is applied". So, I guess I need to get a new master cylinder switch and maybe a new BPP switch.

I know you replaced just about every switch on you CC system - did you replace the BPP switch also?

No.. I didn't replace it..I still have brake lights, so I was assuming it was ok. I did however try to clean it with some electronic spray, with no results...could just the cruise function of the BPP go bad? I'll look more into it.

 

[craftsman67]

Find the cruise control cable (not electrical; the mechanical wire cable which actuates the throttle) and trace it all the way to where it hooks on to the throttle (under the plastic cowling on my engine).

My cc wasn't working either; found that the "socket" part of the fitting at the end of the cable had broken and so there was no connection between the cable and the throttle. New cable costs $32.

Once had something similar happen with a Camry back in the early 90's...

Pretty sure it's electrical...not mechanical, but thanks.

 

[davidcd]

OK ....

I'm going to replace the deactivator switch ($15 at O'Reilly's) and see if I get anywhere with that; if not, I'll see if replacing the BPP does any good. 'will advise.

 

[craftsman67]

OK ....

I'm going to replace the deactivator switch ($15 at O'Reilly's) and see if I get anywhere with that; if not, I'll see if replacing the BPP does any good. 'will advise.

Good luck!...I just tried a bit more cleaner on the BPP, and the second wire connector on the side of the master...RESULTS! The self-test worked on the right side now...with 2 flashes at the end also...According to the test I have, it could be BPP or CPP (clutch)...I do have a 5 speed, and recently changed the clutch master cylinder...I wonder...

 

[craftsman67]

I tried cleaning the connections on the BPP and the CPP switches...does anyone know if a scan will tell me which one is bad?...still no bake light issues...or anything else. I've already spent about $50 on troubleshooting this issue....can't get it back! Lol!

 

[budwich]

They are just "simple switches"... ie. open and close contacts responding to pedal movement. Get a meter and check them out. both should be closed when nothing is happening.

 

[davidcd]

So, cleaning the connector contacts made progress ... good.

I bought a new deactivator switch and it fixed my problem - my cc is working again.

One thing I did do was to buy a spray can of O'Reilly's brake parts cleaner and thoroughly removed all the brake fluid that had gotten into the harness connectors and inline fuse; I used some tooth picks to try to scrub lug connectors and then blew out the excess cleaner - the cleaner is pretty volatile and evaporates quickly. The cc system wires are hot (even with the vehicle turned off ! - I checked with my VOM meter) so, I disconnected the battery before spraying the cleaner.

I'm not sure if you had a lot of fluid on your wires (but, I think you said you just bought your vehicle - do you know any of it's history?) but, apparently the CC wiring system is fairly sensitive to brake fluid getting into the works - at least mine was.

 

[craftsman67]

Another $33 bucks (clutch pedal position switch)...bringing the grand total to around $80.00. But now, I'm also CRUISING!!! for the first time I've owned it. I just got back from it's maiden voyage with working cruise control, and it worked flawlessly!

Something was telling me, that I may have messed up the CPP switch somehow, while I was replacing the clutch master cylinder...don't really know if I did or not. The new one (Duralast), was made a little different than the old one, and when I put the new one on, I noticed it sat down in the seat at the top of the cylinder a lot tighter than the old one did. I could tell that the springs were a lot stiffer on the new one. I don't think I had the old one seated in right because the connector was facing more forward, pointing more towards the driver...The one thing I noticed, I do have to press the clutch completely to the floor to start the vehicle. Before, not so much...is this normal? I don't see any way to adjust it. The pedal has already worn a hole through my new OEM Explorer floor mats. I've only had them in it for about 2 months. The only other issue that I have, is the right side controller lights don't work on my new (used) $30 ebay controllers...Oh well...there's an App (thread) for that! Lol. I'm just happy I got cruise now.

I do have a feeling that the original issue with the cruise, was the switch on the master cylinder. I just made it worse with the clutch master replacement. Rookie mistake...lol. The jumper harness from the recall, and the old switch were pretty nasty with brake fluid and grime...I too, had cleaned it up good, and will keep an eye out for leaks. So far so good.

In summery...PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
Thanks for all the help guys!!!
Scott.

 

[davidcd]

Alright!! Cruisin' in the afternoon ...

I didn't know about the cruise control self-test until I read your initial message; it was a great help. Thanx for posting.

Carry on.
Dave

 

[craftsman67]

Alright!! Cruisin' in the afternoon ...

I didn't know about the cruise control self-test until I read your initial message; it was a great help. Thanx for posting.

Carry on.
Dave

Yeah, It was a great find! But I deserve NO credit...Lol.