Oil Change interval

[RonJrSVCMGR]

Correct. Fram will want to throw a "used engine with comparable miles" in it.... not sure about you, but I prefer a reman engine from Ford, if needed..... Who knows what the TRUE mileage is on the used motor and how the previous owner took care of it.

We also has a "Jiffy Lube" leave oil out of a Camry with 10,000 miles on it several years ago and the insurance company wanted to put a "used engine with comparable miles" in it. We forced them to put a new engine in it, whereas there was still warranty left on the powertrain.

We had a double gasketed oil filter on a Toyota several years ago that we had done and Toyota installed a new engine in the vehicle and paid us for the whole thing. Does ANYONE see the difference here?

 

[edub]

Oil info

i have searched and read most of the threads in the 2011-2013 Explorer section about synthetic oil usage, but i wanted to have a fresh discussion. i just purchased a 2013 XLT and am curious as to when you guys recommend making the switch to full synthetic and other questions. i also wanted to show you guys this magnificent piece i have used on several vehicles.

http://www.qwikvalve.com/?gclid=CPz...://www.qwikvalve.com&rct=j&q=oil+change+valve

so, to the questions:

1. I am at 1,000 miles and even though alot of people say do not worry about a 1,000 mile change, but it is safe to say it wont hurt. so, do i switch to synthetic now or at my 7,500 mile change?

2. what weight? does synthetic correlate to standard weights? i live in Western NC at 4,000' elevation. we have cool summers and winters can get pretty cold.

3. what filters? i have heard ford racing and mobil1 are good.

4. any other good tips and tricks?

thanks in advance

 

[colintrax]

Do some research on "bobtheoilguy.com"
use the same weight, I'd say switch now, and don't buy Fram.
I'd suggest amsoil as its a true synthetic but I'll let you draw your own conclusions after learning the differences

 

[182RG]

A Fumoto valve. They are very nice. The drain plug is easy to get to, but this is a good choice.


Mobil 1, 5W20 full synthetic. I run mine until the Oil Life Monitor shows 5%, or 10K miles. You can get 6 qts at Walmart for approx. $30. Keep the same weight. In a modern engine, don't vary from the recommended weight. Heavier oil ISN'T better or needed.

Motorcraft FL500S filters. I found a bundle of 6 on Amazon for approx. $30.

Use the Oil Life Monitor. I changed the factory fill at 6.5K. The next change went 10K. Don't change early...it's a complete waste of money and a hit on the environment.

 

[Dr Plastic]

What 182RG said is great advice and it is what I have followed for the last 20 years.

I always use Mobil 1 from the first oil change on.

Always use the mfgr's OEM oil filter. it is what the Dr. ordered and prevents problems later on if they quibble about providing warranty work down the word related to engine lubrication

I had always changed Dino oil at 3000, full synthetics at 5000. Since my last car ('08 Chevy Malibu) I used the oil life monitor and found it to be a good gauge of my driving and environmental factors and changed it when it noted that it need to be changed..although I would not let it go over 7500 miles

Look up on the internet about Toyota, BMW and VW/Audi engine sludge lawsuits. These came about when car companies started raising their engine oil change intervals.

Makes for some very interesting reading!

 

[JohnnyO]

Do some research on "bobtheoilguy.com"
use the same weight, I'd say switch now, and don't buy Fram.

My system on a new vehicle has always been to change the oil the first time at half the recommended interval with conventional oil, then at the recommended interval and each one after with synthetic. Ford uses synthetic blend oil at the factory.

Get a used oil analysis once in a while, more often if you want to try different oils. Anything else is just speculation. I get better UOA results with Pennzoil Platinum than Mobil 1 and it costs less. www.blackstone-labs.com, costs $25.

I run Pennzoil Platinum and a Mobil 1 or K&N filter because they have synthetic filter media instead of paper for the full 7500 mile recommendation and the UOA's are fine.

I used to use Mobil 1 0w-30 Fuel Economy Formula and the UOA was fine for 5000 miles but not so good when I ran it for 7500. This is why UOA's are good.

 

[peterk9]

i have searched and read most of the threads in the 2011-2013 Explorer section about synthetic oil usage, but i wanted to have a fresh discussion. i just purchased a 2013 XLT and am curious as to when you guys recommend making the switch to full synthetic and other questions. thanks in advance

I used Mobil1 synthetic oil when it first came out because I was a shift worker then and my vehicle would sit out in the parking lot overnight. Using synthetic made it much easier to start on those cold Winter nights. That was over 30 years agoI haven't used it now for more than 25 years. I lease and given my current driving habits it makes no sense to spend the extra money for synthetic. I faithfully change my oil every 6 months. Since my last change in April I have driven almost 1100 miles and the oil life indicator shows 55%. I have an appointment at the end of the month for my oil change and to have the Winter wheels put on. Since the oil change includes a tire rotation, I get the wheels swapped for no additional charge.
You can switch to synthetic or a synthetic blend at any time. Synthetics stand up much better to heat and aging and would be very beneficial for someone who tows alot. The only real disadvantage is cost where it can be up to four times the cost of regular petroleum based oil.

Peter

 

[Carguy3J]

Mobil1 full synthetic is the way to go. it's a good oil (great actually), and it's readily available at Walmart, at a good price. I don't what Ford specs on the new Explorers, but I would guess 5w20, or maybe even 0w20 (especially in colder climates) If it's the EcoBoost, then maybe 5w30, as a boosted engine is under higher loads/stress.

As for change intervals, with full synthetic and a "fresh" motor, I see nothing wrong with 7500 mile changes. I would, however, get the factory fill out of there now, since you say you're at 1,000 miles. The reason for this is to flush out any minor grit/manufacturing debris/residue that may have been in the engine/oil system. This is always good practice on any new or rebuilt motor. I would actually do it sooner, at around 500 miles.

 

[Jake's Dad]

Use a "real" full synthetic, not a hydro-cracked version like Mobil 1.

Amsoil.

Best stuff out there IMHO!

 

[edub]

I'm not arguing that amsoil isn't, but..... Economies of returns vs benefits! Are you telling me you run amsoil in your modern ford? That is a waste. I've done a lot of researching and most agree. I'm not running down a strip with explosive power and extreme wear. I'm driving to work!

 

[Jake's Dad]

Hey that's cool, whatever works for you! I just want the best for my Explorer. This is my third one and all my vehicles go 200,000 to 300,000 miles and they still keep going. Enjoy the ride!

JD

 

[colintrax]

Use a "real" full synthetic, not a hydro-cracked version like Mobil 1.

Amsoil.

Best stuff out there IMHO!

Exactly, Mobile 1 used to be a real synthetic. It's now a more finely filtered dino oil. Better than conventional oil, but I wouldn't call it a synthetic

 

[edub]

i hear you! my 98 tahoe had 250k miles of torture. i would almost guarantee harder than any new explorer owner could EVER deliver. conventional oil ALWAYS. Amsoil is overkill period! mobil1 is run in ferrari's, porsche's, ZR-1 corvettes, etc. it HAS to be ok for the 2013 3.5 liter V6. but, no doubt, to each is own. Happy Motoring!

 

[edub]

as well as: Mercedes AMG, S &S Cycles, Porsche, and

Acura RDX
Aston Martin DB9, DB9 Volante, DBS, DBS Volante, Virage, Virage Volante, Rapide
Bentley Azure, Brooklands, Continental Flying Spur, Continental GT, Continental GTC, Mulsanne
Chevrolet CR8 and COPO Camaro
Citröen DS3
Holden HSV
Lexus LFA
McLaren MP4-12C
Nissan GT-R
Peugeot RCZ
Vauxhall VXR8
Viper Motorcycles

And it is the official motor oil for the most boring sport... NASCAR!

 

[2013exploder]

Do some research on "bobtheoilguy.com"
use the same weight, I'd say switch now, and don't buy Fram.

What's the issue with Fram filters?

I've used them for years and have had no issues, just wondering.

 

[182RG]

What's the issue with Fram filters?

I've used them for years and have had no issues, just wondering.

It's an old wives tale, circulating on the Internet. I've heard the same about Quaker State oil, Shell diesel, etc.

They are fine.

 

[Norad]

Get a used oil analysis once in a while, more often if you want to try different oils. Anything else is just speculation. I get better UOA results with Pennzoil Platinum than Mobil 1 and it costs less. www.blackstone-labs.com, costs $25.

I like to get an analysis done every oil change just to make sure that little problems/noises get taken care of before they cost big $$. Also it allows me to track metal contents in the oil which may point to a certain type of wear or impending failure. Also they look for fuel in the oil and water both can start out small and then turn in to huge headaches.

 

[colintrax]

Fram filters aren't just an old wives tale...
And I know Mobile 1 is recommended by a lot of manufactures. But that doesn't mean much, Mobile 1 probably gives them money to recommend them. Just like the Supercross series is all monster energy, nascar is all mobile 1.
I'm not saying Mobile 1 is bad oil, it's probably the best Group 3 oil. I'm just saying group 4 is the best for an everyday driver and group 5 is best for a race car.

 

[peterk9]

Fram filters aren't just an old wives tale...
And I know Mobile 1 is recommended by a lot of manufactures. But that doesn't mean much, Mobile 1 probably gives them money to recommend them. Just like the Supercross series is all monster energy, nascar is all mobile 1.
I'm not saying Mobile 1 is bad oil, it's probably the best Group 3 oil. I'm just saying group 4 is the best for an everyday driver and group 5 is best for a race car.

For the every day driver a good non synthetic oil is all they should really need if they do regular maintenance on their vehicle. No doubt synthetic or a blend is better but I liken it to putting nitrogen in your tires. It has its advantages but costs more and is not really required.
Having said that, I did use Mobil1 in my '81 Datsun wagon when I was doing shift work and the car had to sit in an open parking lot during the Winter. It made for easier starting in cold weather conditions but for the past 22 years I've used just regular oil without any problems at all.

Peter

 

[blueoval9erlifer]

I'm going to say that it doesnt matter what kind of oil you use as long as its changed at an intelligent/ regular interval. i had a 96 dakota used quaker state ran 286,000 before i got rid of it, still driven by the person who bought it 5 years ago. 88 ford ranger(my dad had a 87) both of them saw over 300,000 miles and still running in fact. used a coop oil (cenex its a blend) ran the 1st buick 350,000 the seconds at 287,000 and counting. i wont deny that the synthetic is a longer lasting oil because it is but as long as your oil is changed on a regular basis it should not matter what you use.

By the way my brothers chemistry teacher in college (2 years ago) had a new corvette that he put mobile 1 in and sent the oil to a friend of his to check viscosity and whatever they check on an oil diagnosis, changed the filter, topped it back off every 5000 miles AND after 50,000 miles the oil checked out to still be better than standard oil.

Now as far as brands not all oils are created equal I know from working with my father tearing down engines as a kid that he could tell from the smell of the parts if someone had been using penzoil, havoline, and one other brand i cant think of right now that were all popular in the 70's. He will also tell you that the dirtiest motors he's torn down were always running pennz.

For what it was worth thats my opinion Id say do some research and make an informed decision based on your findings...