OMG NOOOO!! can I drop my oil pan??? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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OMG NOOOO!! can I drop my oil pan???

Better than JB weld Devcon Plastic Steel Epoxy Putty 5 or 15 min avail
can be drilled thru after set it is plastic steel commerical grade get it at Grangers!!! also it cures in temp as low as 40 degrees!!!
 



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hey.... after reading this i got to wonder .....

i did a oil pump replacement on my 95 dodge dakota 4x4 and what i had to do was undo the motor mounts and the transmission mounts and jack the engine up on the harmonic bal/crankshaft , it was a pain but i was able to get enough height on it to remove the oil pan and do my repair.

i know i'm compairing dodge's to ford's but you can't tell me that the whole engine has to come out to do this even if you take the upper intake system off the engine (to get you a little more angle when your jacking up and the rear of the engine is nearing the firewall) !?

or is the firewall the killing point to this problem ( being to close the the top of the engine ) ???
 






Yes, the firewall is a tight fit there.
 






...thought so
 






My only fear is that since this is the oil "drain" - there will be oil accumlating on top of the JB weld throughout the curing process. So maybe jack the truck up on one side so any left over oil will collect on the opposite side of the pan and not on top of the area where the JB weld is curing.

Vey good thought, and, I did just that. I was finally able to get it sloped enough to quit draining. Then I dried it with compressed air, more brake cleaner, compressed air and a rag.
I then drilled a hole at the end of the crack , blew brake cleaner in to remove any filings, and wiped up again.
Then I used a wire wheel to clean the area up real good, wiped it all clean with acetone and used some jbweld.

It was too runny, so I went to town , again, and got some quick weld. I used a layer of this on top of the still gooey layer of jb weld, and worked it in with my finger. I layed on a patch about 5" x5" all around the crack, and, sealed in the drain plug. Since the drain plug has a quick release valve and a threaded cap, the area should not be stressed. It is way up there, nothing should ever hit it, and, it will also be covered by a skid plate

I think this is going to work. By golly.
 






BEFORE YOU USE JB WELD go to oreillys, they sell some stuff that is made JUST for oil pans please look that up before you jb weld it PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 






BEFORE YOU USE JB WELD go to oreillys, they sell some stuff that is made JUST for oil pans please look that up before you jb weld it PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please enlighten me
since Oreilly's is where I went to get the jb weld which I already used--
 






would the JB Stick maybe of been easier to use in that area? i can imagine how much it sucked to work the goopy jb weld out of the tubes, mix it, and spackle it on upside down. ive had good luck with JB Stick, cures strong.

then again looks like you have it taken care of. is your fix working?
 






would the JB Stick maybe of been easier to use in that area? i can imagine how much it sucked to work the goopy jb weld out of the tubes, mix it, and spackle it on upside down. ive had good luck with JB Stick, cures strong.

then again looks like you have it taken care of. is your fix working?

I haven't put oil in yet. It may be best to let it cure for a while.
 












My father has used JB weld to fix Detroit 60Series oil pans before and it worked just fine, should work good for your application.
 












JB is good stuff when used correctly, some people expect it to solve everything though.
It saved me from going bald so I cant complain .. oh wait, wrong thread.
 






you gotta watch where you put the JB weld.. protect your hootus or whatever that thread was.

if JB will cure baldness i know a couple friends that are getting 2 part epoxy poured on their heads.
 






It saved me from going bald so I cant complain .. oh wait, wrong thread.

As I sit here pulling clumps of jb weld and hair from my scalp, I think of the irony in that post.
 












I've used JB weld on an old detroit desiel engine block, as well as sealed gasket leaks on a Selek desiel front loader/lift. The engine block should not get above 400 degrees and that's the high end of JB weld so you will be just fine. If it doesn't hold it's just cuz the oil got into it before it cured, on next attempt ruff up the area with a course sandpaper to give the JB something to hold to.
 






What about using an oversized plug after you tap it out to get past the cracked area? Another option is to use an expanding plug where the rubber expands while you tighten a nut on the bottom. BTW, did you contact the company that made the plug which originally created the whole problem?
 






The JB KWIK is nice because you can let it start to harden a bit before slapping it on there, as it dries completely in 5 minutes.

The 5x5 epoxy patch might not have been the best idea though. Thats a large area and im pretty sure that the epoxy will shirnk/expand differently than alluminum, possibly causing it to seperate. I would stick to the 'use only as much as you need to fill the crack' method.
 



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MY lovely bride has made the transition from angry to making fun of me now. We had planned on taking the Mounty on a weekend trip, but no. I had to go making changes the day before


" But I was changing the oil-it was only a drain plug"

We ended up in the Nissan for hours, and the trip is now history. In the meantime the jb weld had ample time to harden.

Well friends, nope. Jb weld is not going to make my life joy--
I put about 2 quarts of oil in , looked under and saw a steady drip.

:mad:

I am going to attempt removal of the entire front suspension in order to facilitate removal of this oil pan. It looks like if the steering rack was out I might just have room.

Since I have been removing and re assembling front ends lately, I have much more confidence going in from underneath if it can be done. I may have to lift the engine just a tad, but I would really like to avoid bolting the torque converter back up. That is a major PITA
 






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