Opinions on rebuilding my stock 96 5.0

[1997XLTRollover]

Well guys I decided I'm going to just do a stock rebuild (with some torque monster headers if I can find a set in time) and had a few questions. First question is how far can I bore the stock block over? I figured since I'm doing it I may as well get a few extra cubes out of it even though I won't even notice it. I see pistons for sale at 60 over, can these blocks even go that far without risk of overheating or cracking a cylinder wall?

Here are the parts I'm looking at for my 96 and want to be sure I'm not overlooking something. Can anyone confirm these are the correct parts I need for my rebuild? Also is there is anything I'm overlooking that I should also replace or change/upgrade? I plan to have the crank polished/checked, rods checked, and a valve job done on my heads. Debating having them decked as well to maybe up compression a hair too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-RACING...=100011&prg=10819&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=161437246505

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-0-5-8-V8-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f990d5fa&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281127590309?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-7826-16/

 

[Turdle]

At this point I am going to throw out the stroked crank debate. Since you will buying new pistons anyway, and the crank is going to the shop, I think a stock internals stroke and bore will pay for itself. The higher piston speed and torque will pay off in fuel economy. Add .030 to the bore and almost half inch to the stroke for 347 cubic inches.
I am not suggesting a "hot rod" combo. Just more cubes. We all know a longer handle on a wrench makes the bolt easier to turn, due to increased leverage. The same thing occurs inside an engine. If you increase the stroke you are giving the piston a longer wrench. This makes more torque with the same fuel-
Since the piston travels further in the same amount of time, it will be faster.

You might price a cast 347 kit and see how much it would cost over the stock stuff. There will be some additional block work needed but not much. You might be able to have the stock rod journals turned to the longer stroke. ( I think that is how they do it, but I am not positive on that)




Or, ignore this post.

PS
Our 1998 Mounty 347 with a bunch of goodies got better fuel economy than any I have owned.

 

[biff9703]

I used a Scat kit for my 347. No block work was needed. The rods cleared the block perfectly. Also, I had the stock cam reground by Holman and Moody in Charlotte. $75 well spent. They asked me gear ratio, tire diameter, and what I wanted from the build. They also asked the weight of my truck. As Jon said, the mileage is better with more power. Tuning was required, but my son took care of that. My truck runs better than ever and uses less gas!

 

[1997XLTRollover]

At this point I am going to throw out the stroked crank debate. Since you will buying new pistons anyway, and the crank is going to the shop, I think a stock internals stroke and bore will pay for itself. The higher piston speed and torque will pay off in fuel economy. Add .030 to the bore and almost half inch to the stroke for 347 cubic inches.
I am not suggesting a "hot rod" combo. Just more cubes. We all know a longer handle on a wrench makes the bolt easier to turn, due to increased leverage. The same thing occurs inside an engine. If you increase the stroke you are giving the piston a longer wrench. This makes more torque with the same fuel-
Since the piston travels further in the same amount of time, it will be faster.

You might price a cast 347 kit and see how much it would cost over the stock stuff. There will be some additional block work needed but not much. You might be able to have the stock rod journals turned to the longer stroke. ( I think that is how they do it, but I am not positive on that)




Or, ignore this post.

PS
Our 1998 Mounty 347 with a bunch of goodies got better fuel economy than any I have owned.

I was looking at this kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351152067660?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

But even with that kit I would still probably bring it to the machine shop to be checked. It would easily cost another 1000 bucks to go the 347 route.

I used a Scat kit for my 347. No block work was needed. The rods cleared the block perfectly. Also, I had the stock cam reground by Holman and Moody in Charlotte. $75 well spent. They asked me gear ratio, tire diameter, and what I wanted from the build. They also asked the weight of my truck. As Jon said, the mileage is better with more power. Tuning was required, but my son took care of that. My truck runs better than ever and uses less gas!

Now there's an idea, I never knew anyone offered a regrind of our stock cam for 75 bucks. What else did you have to chance with this? I'm assuming push rod length?

Also the tuning is going to be easy 5-600 bucks which brings the build up to probably 1500-2k more over a stock rebuild. I also probably won't be able to get headers for it either and the stock 96 manifolds will absolutely kill how the truck runs.

 

[Turdle]

MIne had stock manifolds before I got the headers. It ran real well, to be honest. Better with the headers yes, but it was still a beast with the stockers.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

MIne had stock manifolds before I got the headers. It ran real well, to be honest. Better with the headers yes, but it was still a beast with the stockers.

Do I even need that 347 kit I posted or can I use the stock rods and just get a cast stroker crank?

Basically get this kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281127590309?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

And find a stroker crank somewhere and use my stock rods?


Like this crank? Will this work on my 96?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STROKER-CRA...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd9d1117f&vxp=mtr

 

[Turdle]

Unfortunately no. The rods and pistons are both unique length.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Unfortunately no. The rods and pistons are both unique length.

Any idea where I can get a cheap rotating assembly? I don't need forged anything, just a nice stock rebuild. With a 347 haha.

 

[rjcooperss396]

Coast High Performance has their cast 331 and 347 stroker kits on sale right now. The only issue with a 347 kit that uses a 5.400 rod is that the oil rings are in the pin hole which leads to oil consumption. I'd recommend either using a 331 (3.250 stroke vs 3.400 for the 347) or go with Coast High Performances short rod 347 kit. In that kit they use 5.315 rod and the same piston as in the 331. It keeps the oil rings out of the pin hole. This is the kit I used when I built the 347 for my Cobra. Just don't use their in house balancing. Have the assembly balanced by a machine shop of your choice.

 

[Turdle]

Yeah, you want this balanced to a stock flex plate and harmonic balancer locally.

 

[shucker1]

I went with Eagle 331 Cast and 28 Oz balance.

You can get the balancer from:

http://www.damperdudes.net//product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=224

Engine is on a stand and waiting for the transmission.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

This is all looking like it's going to cost quite a bit more than a stock rebuild. Which I sadly can't afford. So I guess I have to start looking at stock stuff. Assuming my crank and rods are good as well as my cam, I can probably get a full stock rebuild done for under 1000 bucks. I'll just punch it 30 over so I can pretend I'm making more power haha.

That being said what do you guys think of the parts I was looking at? Is it the right stuff or did I miss anything I should be doing?

 

[shucker1]

Sorry to hear that.

Zero hour overhaul and 331 upfit was right at $3400 for me.

A new set of THM's were included as well.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

if you dont have to bore it, dont. let the machine shop make that call. oversized pistons cost more then a stock piston. only do it if you need to. that way if you ever have to do the motor again, you have the option.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

if you dont have to bore it, dont. let the machine shop make that call. oversized pistons cost more then a stock piston. only do it if you need to. that way if you ever have to do the motor again, you have the option.

That's not true. I can get 30 over for the same price of stock. Where do you get your prices from man? haha Far as not being able to bore over and rebuild again, while that's a good point, I couldn't care less to be honest. I'll buy another block if I have to at that point. These things are all over junkyards and they made a ton of them.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

The last time you asked where I get my prices man, everyone else agreed. I get prices from the real world.
I'll just stop posting trying to help you, and watch your wallet open wider and wider from here on out.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

The last time you asked where I get my prices man, everyone else agreed. I get prices from the real world.
I'll just stop posting trying to help you, and watch your wallet open wider and wider from here on out.

No they didn't but ok. It's pretty simple to see STD vs .030 and see it says same price just specify size.