P0320 Check Engine Light Code

[BDShort]

Hello guys, I'm new here and I've been visiting this forum over the months secretly perusing through threads to help me fix up my explorer.

I've replaced my brakes, rear ABS sensor, and what not, solely because of you guys' awesome help and descriptive advice.

Now let me cut to the chase. My pesky yellow ABS light was on so I replaced the rear sensor and it's gone, but sure enough the check engine light replaces it. I went to oriellys and they scanned it to find a P0320 error code. I've googled and looked well over 15 pages on where the CKP sensor is, but for the life of me I can't find it.

I drive a 1999 Ford explorer sport, V6, 4wd, SOHC engine. I can't see or find where it's at and I've looked at most all of the previous threads to find it, but with no luck. Maybe I'm dumb, or it's right in front of me, but I'm clueless as to where it is.

If you guys could find me a picture or describe it to me I would be utterly grateful. I'm tired of seeing the light and a the car won't sell as fast with the light on. Any help at your earliest convenience would be extremely appreciated.

Thanks,
Brandon

 

[Turdle]

Hopefully this works

 

[BDShort]

Geez thats a tight pace. I was looking under there last night because a friend of mine said it was near some pulleys but if minor mistaken that's where I was looking. How do I get it out and replaced? Do I have to worry about timing anything?

 

[BDShort]

Has anyone removed one from a sohc engine? Do I need to remove pulleys?

 

[Turdle]

I bet if you remove just the fan and shroud you will have plenty of room.

You might try to disconnect the plug on the sensor, and reconnect it. This might be enough to fix the intermittent code.

 

[BDShort]

Thanks a lot, I'm gonna try it out tomorrow and see where I get. Ill get back to you.

 

[BDShort]

Heres what I uplugged, does this look like the right thing? I found the camshaft sensor and the assumption was the crankshaft was right below. I haven't gotten my code checked yet because the check engine light already went away, and from the looks of it this is a bigger project than I can handle lol.

 

[Turdle]

By golly--now spray just a little wd-40 in the connection, if you have it. Then plug it back in.

If you are not having an inspection, go ahead and disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the PCM. Hopefully the check engine light will shut up like it is supposed to.



Oh, you might also wipe the dirt and stuff from the sensor--I think there is a pin like "rod"-try to get it wiped clean also.

 

[BDShort]

Haven't done the WD-40 or cleaning yet, but I have intentions on replacing the sensor all together. Here's some pictures because I'm having trouble removing the fan clutch lol.

So for my SOHC engine there's just the big nut connecting it to the waterpump. It's a RH threaded so the assumption is, when facing the engine, to turn counterclockwise yes?

I bought the fan clutch removal wrench set from O'Riellys (19.99 for the set, but 81.00 to rent????) and here's the two:

The wider mouthed wrench I'm assuming goes over the four bolts connecting the water pump to the fan? But I don't have a socket to put into the square to hold it still while I turn the other wrench on the nut. If they were both the same length it'd be a breeze.

Basically I try to wedge my hand in there and hold it as still as I can, while pushing the long wrench away from me to loosen the nut but the pump keeps moving.

I found a video on youtube illustrating how to remove it, but he uses just one single wrench and left me more confused than when I started.

Here's the video, it's pretty straight forward. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2HRnhpExqA

 

[Turdle]

Yeah--although this is still a pain, I get a real long screwdriver and wedge it into the water pump bolts to hold it still, then some taps with a hammer to the fan nut wrench usually pops it loose. Yes, you are correct it has normal threads looking from the front of the engine. Leaving the belt on helps to hold the water pump also, so do not loosen it yet. In fact, you might gain something by having a helper hold more tension on the tensioner pulley while you try the fan nut tool.


If it is too much of a pain I get out a long chisel for the air hammer,and give it a few bursts to the corner of the nut to get it turning

This might work with a long punch and mallet.

 

[BDShort]

I was sneaking through some of the top threads and found this:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332584


He has a picture of how he took out his fan and he used a long screwdriver wedged inbetween two of the bolts. Genius, and simple. I didn't even think of it.

It's raining out right now, and I'm off work tomorrow so I'm gonna try it out then and I'll return with good or bad news haha. Thanks

 

[BDShort]

Well you guys, I finally replaced the CKP sensor. Also took some pictures in case anyone could use them for a tutorial or anything of the such.

It was a pain in the butt, the sad thing is, the only hard part was getting the fan clutch and shroud back on. That's when the vulgar language started flying. Taking out the bolts of the sensor wasn't so easy either, have multiple cuts from the radiator housing all up my arm.

Went to O'Reillys and got the check engine light code reset so if it comes back on, it's something else.

 

[BDShort]

[img=http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/35/img06941g.jpg]

 

[Turdle]

Hang around long enough and you'll have stitches.

Good job getting to the sensor. Believe me, the more you work on your truck the more familiar it will get, and you will be able to notice issues before they become serious.

 

[BDShort]

Another good thing about this is I returned the wrench set and got my 21 dollars back. spent 15 dollars on the sensor and that's it.

 

[koda2000]

FYI: The auto parts don't charge to borrow their lend-a-tools. you're just leaving a deposit to cover the cost of replacement in case you don't return it. if you're like me, they just give me the tool w/out the deposit because i'm in there so often they know i'll return it.

just my opinion, but i think it's cheesey to buy a tool, use it and return it.

 

[BDShort]

We live in a world where money grubbing mutants control everyday habitation. Considering I only used one part of the tool I figured returning it wouldn't be such a big deal. I took care of it as I do all my tools and ended up using alternative means of taking off the clutch.

Ive invested hundreds in the store and 3 of their staff members know me by name, so its all in good intentions. If I need to get in there again, a wrench and screwdriver works better than the specialty tool.

On a side note, why does it cost 81 to rent a tool they sell for 20?

 

[BDShort]

NO! IT'S BACK!




What do I do now? I don't know what else to check or replace.

 

[BDShort]

If it's still the p0320 code could it possibly be the alternator? The code reader says ignition related.

I dont know if it matter, but before I installed the sensor I did drop it lol. Knocked it off the headlight, I don't think a little bump would cause it to be faulty?

 

[Turdle]

I guess it would be best to be sure if it is the same code or not, before going down the wrong path.
After reading the code, You "might" disconnect battery, then disconnect and reconnect the main PCM plug on the firewall. I believe it is a 10mm bolt which will push the connector out as you loosen it. Blow some air on the pins, but do not touch them, and plug it back in. Tighten the bolt of course. Hoping for a bad connection at that plug--it happens sometimes.

Do this after checking the trouble code, if you disconnect it before hand the memory will be erased.