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Paint question.... again

mr cribb

US Army Retired
Joined
December 16, 2010
Messages
2,304
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86
City, State
Naylor, MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Z71, 89 stepside
My truck is spray bombed. I have heard mixed reviews of you CAN and CANNOT paint over spray paint.

It's flat black... cheap crap... I think I have $50 in it. It has been sanded a few months back, the body is mostly smooth.

here's a few pics:
CIMG0178.jpg


CIMG0176.jpg


CIMG0173.jpg


CIMG0172.jpg
 



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If you are serious about painting it you will need to sand it to primer or metal, clean it, prime it and lightly sand it, then it will be ready to paint. Sanding make a rough surface for paint or primer to adhere.
 






Hey man, your Explorer looks like mine!

I painted mine the same way, 20 cans of flat black spray paint and now I want to change it.

My friend who works at a body shop took a look at it and said the same thing I thought, that it needs to be sanded off, but with the amount of work that'll entail (I have 3 different paints: two different spray paints and rustoleum roll on) we've been thinking about using a stripper. I work for a parts store, and there's a product called Tal-Strip that works PHENOMENALLY... I "accidentally" sprayed it on a wall at work and within seconds the paint was bubbling and I wiped it off. That's what I'm gonna go with initially, just to break through the paint that's glazed and hardened, after I use Tal-Strip I'll sand it with a DA back down to the original primer/base/undercoat.

That's what I would do if you want the new paint to be a quality job with good long term results.
 






Hey man, your Explorer looks like mine!

I painted mine the same way, 20 cans of flat black spray paint and now I want to change it.

My friend who works at a body shop took a look at it and said the same thing I thought, that it needs to be sanded off, but with the amount of work that'll entail (I have 3 different paints: two different spray paints and rustoleum roll on) we've been thinking about using a stripper. I work for a parts store, and there's a product called Tal-Strip that works PHENOMENALLY... I "accidentally" sprayed it on a wall at work and within seconds the paint was bubbling and I wiped it off. That's what I'm gonna go with initially, just to break through the paint that's glazed and hardened, after I use Tal-Strip I'll sand it with a DA back down to the original primer/base/undercoat.

That's what I would do if you want the new paint to be a quality job with good long term results.

LOL @ "accidentally".... I was gonna see about just using a DA and seeing what that does.... worst case scenario I could use what you mentioned. By going your route it'd prob work better since I planned on re-priming mine anyway, I figure after 20 years why not (my truck is officially 20 yrs old as of 17 DEC according to the original ship date from manufacturer found through autocheck) and who knows what kinda paint was used on it before I got it..... it kinda looks like house paint used with a brush (you can see brush strokes.

My point is I wish I could find a painter to do it for little to nothing cause since the X isn't worth more than $700 on a good day there's no point in spending $700-$900 on a paint job. The truck was originally red, so that's what it's going back to.
 






spray bomb paint has to come back off, or it will peel and leaves flakes ..

,
 






Just spend a day (just do it) sanding your truck down and lay down some primer. We did our ex with a spray gun and a good base is going to make all the difference.

Best of luck!
 






I wish I could find a painter to do it for little to nothing.

that i can grantee wont happen. stripping a crusty old paint job to a painter sucks (they normally leave that to the apprentice). if you try and paint over it, it will "check" or crinkle on you, then you will have 10 times the work afterwards. if you use that spry on stuff, mask your moldings, and around your windshield good. it will eat the urethane. its a messy job, but its something you can do yourself. what i would do is, use the paint stripper first, then a DA sander afterwards. just dont sit in one spot for tooo long, or you will end up warping the panel, and also, hold the sander as flat as you can on the panel you are sanding. its not that hard.
 






Just spend a day (just do it) sanding your truck down and lay down some primer. We did our ex with a spray gun and a good base is going to make all the difference.

Best of luck!

that i can grantee wont happen. stripping a crusty old paint job to a painter sucks (they normally leave that to the apprentice). if you try and paint over it, it will "check" or crinkle on you, then you will have 10 times the work afterwards. if you use that spry on stuff, mask your moldings, and around your windshield good. it will eat the urethane. its a messy job, but its something you can do yourself. what i would do is, use the paint stripper first, then a DA sander afterwards. just dont sit in one spot for tooo long, or you will end up warping the panel, and also, hold the sander as flat as you can on the panel you are sanding. its not that hard.

Thanks for the advice y'all!
 






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