PATS delete test

[allmyEXes]

Now that I have had PATS deleted/turned off (@donalds and @CDW6212R explain to me actually what has happened) in my 1999 Ranger I want to test the fact that PATS is now disabled. I went and had a plain key cut to do this. It doesn't fit and I don't want to waste another $2- trying to get another key cut. Can I simply unplug the keyhole Transponder to do my test? By the way I will have a 1999 ranger column for sale with a chip key.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes
the halo only reads the chip and sends message to the PATS module in 99
So with it unplugged is exactly the same as not having a chip key

So you grounded the pin at the PATS relay? LOL

 

[allmyEXes]

@410Fortune No Jamie I have not. Where is the relay? I've heard something about a possible wire on the start solenoid? Can you tell that I have limited experience with this? LoL. Fill me in. I haven't re-installed the PCM if there happens to be something to do to a wire there too. I'm deleting PATS for the '54F100/Ranger project and I will be using a modified '54 column to steer the thing. Also what lightening up can I do to the harness as far as transponder wiring and box etc can I do?

 

[410Fortune]

Well the pats module in 98/99 simply grounds the PATS relay when it detects the proper chip key, disables the starter
So if you were to snip that wire and ground it, basically you have bypassed the pats
Unless I am missing something? I am a bit rusty!

The other option you have is to leave the pats system in tact, and simply put that key/tumbler/halo somewhere under the dash, hidden
Use the 1954 key to actually power up and run the starter.

 

[allmyEXes]

I had considered hiding the halo and key in a box under the dash but I had Steve at Drag Radial Performance in Ocala FL perform the PATS delete to the PCM. That way I have a fully functional 1999 Ranger column that i will put on Ebay to sell and use the money to pay myself back for the PATS delete/bypass? I thought it would be better in the way long run so when a grandson inherits the truck he wont have to have a special manual/bible all about the truck. And when I'm ready to remove the 3.0 drivetrain it will be simplified to install in something else. Anyone have an old '50s Metropolitan Nash with a dead engine? That would move right along with a 3.0. From the factory they had 1400 cc engines. I'll be surprised if someone comes back and says that they have one for sale. I hardly ever see them around.

 

[allmyEXes]

Maybe @donalds can tell me where the relay is that I need to ground?

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm glad you have made progress, the wiring and details are some of the slow bits that turn people off. I spent a good month with my major rewiring of my 99/93 truck. I did it in sections and functions, with the entire truck still apart.

 

[donalds]

I have no idea

 

[allmyEXes]

I may have found the answer. Find the blue wire with the orange stripe coming out of the engine fuse box. Cut and ground it.
@410Fortune Jamie was right as I knew he was. I just had to figure out where the relay is and wire color. I wont be able to test the PCM until Monday or Tuesday evening because the PCM is at my Shop and I am at home. After supper I'm gonna go back out to the work area and unfasten 2 10mm sheet metal screw/bolts to be able to flip the under hood fuse/relay box over to see the wires the cut the blue with an orange stripe wire long enough to ground it back to one of the fuse box screws. That is the end from the relay and not the one going towards the PATS module. Later this week I will update all of y'all as to how it works.
Added at 7:50 p.m. 8/22/21
I was able to remove the UH fuse/relay box (Power Distribution Box) but there is one more fastener that you have to undo. It's a bolt that holds a leg to the metal inner apron. I've got the wire located but I would like to probe and verify before I do any cutting. There is a large 3 piece bulkhead connector going through the firewall. My 10mm didn't seem to fit it, it's almost as if it is 3/8" fasteners which would seem odd being an all metric truck. As usual I'm working with a limited tool set at home. Tomorrow I will bring home a newer 10mm, a 3/8" socket and a DVOM. I would like to cut the wire near the bulkhead connector after I check and make sure that it totally the correct wire.
More Monday evening.

 

[CDW6212R]

So that PATS relay is in the PDB. Which of the four wires needs to be cut/removed and grounded? Is it a trigger wire or one of the controlled wires(the #30 power terminal is the main + circuit)?

Are these three connectors what you didn't have a socket to fit, I also thought they were 10mm? It's been 15 years since I installed those.

 

[allmyEXes]

Wire #85 on the relay. Dark blue with an orange stripe. Relay #5 in the PDB. I'm unable to find a 10mm 3/8 drive socket in my "home" box. Yes those are the 3 connectors. The blue wire/orange stripe is hiding or else I would T-pin it. It will just take a few minutes to un-do the bottom two of 3 unless they come out as a set. It's not in the top connector.

 

[allmyEXes]

Well the bulk head connectors come out individually. I started with the bottom one and couldn't find the dark blue with an orange stripe the the second and then the top. It has to be there somewhere unless another harness runs through the firewall. I need better light like sunlight. Since I have my chip key will I be able to start it and back out in to the light or is it disabled until I find this wire and ground it? Seems like a good place for an anti theft toggle switch. LOL

 

[410Fortune]

LOCATE the wire in the underside of the PJB!! The power junction box, not in the bulkhead connectors!!!
remove the bottom cover off the fuse box, locate the wire, snip it coming out of the relay and ground it to the relay = starter is no longer controlled by pats

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree, if it's in the PDB, then it's easy enough to find it on the backside there and make the change.

 

[allmyEXes]

Forgive me for not saying something here on this thread Tuesday night. I think I put it on my '54 build thread. I found the wire, cut it and spliced it to a ground wire and removed the PATS box before I started it. It runs just like it did before. I think it is time for the 1999 plugs and wires to be changed. The programmer guy said the PCM was in very good condition.

 

[Rick]

I'll be surprised if someone comes back and says that they have one for sale. I hardly ever see them around.

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[allmyEXes]

@Rick I was surprised how many running ones I came across on Marketplace. I need another project or vehicle like I need another hole in my head...

 

[fastpakr]

I'm jumping in a little late on the conversation here. Are we saying that by grounding this wire the PATS system is completely bypassed? Or is that just an additional step being taken after the computer was otherwise programmed to ignore PATS?


Edit... just realized that there was a separate procedure done to bypass PATS on the PCM. So this was purely to enable the starter afterwards?

 

[allmyEXes]

@fastpakr The grounding of the dk BL/OR wire is a necessary step on a 1999 Ranger after someone with the equipment and Knowledge to bypass or delete PATS to the PCM in order for the engine to turn over. I myself don't know all of the ins and outs of it is why I sent my PCM to Steve to have him bypass PATS. I also wrote on the PCM with a Sharpie what was done to the PCM and I have an "old school" plastic label maker that I labeled the grounded wire so in the future if someone else is working on the truck they will be able to know about the changes. Different year, make and models of vehicles can and are different.
By the way I will have a 1999 ranger column for sale with a chip key.