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Preventative treatment for Black vehicles

That makes no sense. Post a picture.

The Explorer is 7" wider than my Jeep, according to Google. The Jeep only has about 2" of clearance on each side of the door frame, which is why I'm an expert at garage parking.

And modifying the door frame? God forbid I upset the board members of the association...
 



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Take it to a professional shop and get a Cquartz ceramic paint protection applied, followed by an Xpel wrap. It's the ultimate protection, but you will not like the price tag......

Wow, that Cquartz stuff looks impressive and scary at the same time. Here's a quote on one of the steps of the application:

7.) During the first 10 minutes, apply CQuartz to any spots that were missed. After 10 minutes, do not try to re-fill missing spots; it will stain the paint.

I guess I'll have to look for a excellent detail $hop :D
 












The Explorer is 7" wider than my Jeep, according to Google. The Jeep only has about 2" of clearance on each side of the door frame, which is why I'm an expert at garage parking.

And modifying the door frame? God forbid I upset the board members of the association...

How old is that garage? I'm guessing older garages must have had smaller garage doors.
 






How old is that garage? I'm guessing older garages must have had smaller garage doors.

Built in 1979.

It doesn't matter much because there's no shade at work, which is where I spend most of my time while vertical. I just hate cleaning snow off my vehicle first thing in the morning during the winter haha.
 






I second a Opti coat application. I would even go as far as telling the dealer they do not need to prep the out side of your car. Take it directly to a professional who does Opti coat. They will have to clay your car and remove all the imperfections in the paint prior to application due to the fact they will be sealed in after the Opti coat application. Another benefit of the Opti coat is dirt won't stick to the car as much so cleaning will be much easier. It cost big $$$ but its worth it if your getting black. Obviously don't take a black car through a car wash either. Hand wash or true toutchless car wash
 






Well that settles it. I narrowed it down to ceramic or Opti coat.

You guys were right; it ain't cheap. I just can't resist the investment and the superhydrophobic surface can help save on washing the vehicle more often. Exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks, fellas!
 






The clear bra is good at first, but every one that I've seen more than 5 years old or so looks terrible. They Crack and turn yellow. I'd stay away from them. A good quality cover will do wonders... Or if you're cheap like me, you could just park it in the shade. I'm luck that I live in a forest and there's a nice big shade tree I Park under at work.
 






Couple of things.

are you willing to do any part of this yourself and do you want to buy a tool?

and

how much are you willing to spend to make the paint still look good at year 5 - while keeping the seals and rubbers on the outside looking good?


If you want something done - have any detailer in your area detal the car the day you come home with it - week later whatever. but they need to clean it, clay it, and put that first quality coat of something on it.

that something - can be anything for a decent polymer based polish to a hard coat - needs to cure in place - polymer shield. I use Optimum products stuff mostly because I can get it cheaper - but there are alternatives. I have used and do not like Zaino. Why - nothing that wrong with it but there are better, easier to use products on the market.
 






stupid keyboard.

SO if you want to do any of it yourself - it's not hard by the way.

Do that first polishing yourself. OH I have a black Pontiac G8 - it is swirl mark free and easy peasy.

1 - buy you a quality, random orbit polisher that uses a velcro base plate and foam pads system. I highly highly recommend the porter cable device - there are companies out there that sell them in kit form with stuffs. do that.

if you want to go it your self - harbor freight's expensive buffer - is nearly like the Porter Cable product - but the PC is quieter - differences is about 70 dollars though.

still this is a 120+ dollar random orbit polisher/sander device. and yes I've used mine to sand wood products too. OH and the smaller arbor kit to use 4 inch pads polishes the smurf all out of some plastic headlamp covers.


now - with tools in hand. wash car with cheap dish soap. I know I know, OMG but so and so . . . . . . the reason - removes any oil film, silocone sprays and nast off the car paint at moment one. rinse the car - and then do so again.

clay bar. you must buy the most expensive clay you can find that is mined by virgins in canada. serious note - I like meguiars, there are others and some get insane expensive. to be fair if this is your first rodeo into show car finishing - anything is good. I like meguiars and the cost is about right. for a car the size of the explorer you will need one bar - get 2. have a back up. cut the bar into pieces I like 3rds.

make up a spray - I like to take about 1 oz of car soap (pretty much any that doesn't have wax in it - I like optimum but meh) and about 15 or so oz of water.

Or follow directions of the clay bar you get.

after that - section by section use the fine cut or swirl remover product. it's about like a 22-2800 grit sand paper. this preps the surface and fixes any minor sins of the paint process. Then go to the polish itself. again I like optimum but I also like meguiars tech wax. key bit - polymer based car polish/protectant. not carnauba wax.

this is where the foam pads shine - get quality stuffs I like ordering from autogeek.com

there are grades to the pads too - you will find the polish level pads are the softest. Now - read this carefully. if you go in lines with the flow of the car - using that style of polisher - and pad you CANNOT mar or damage the paint/clear coat of the car.

Yes OK if you dropped the pad and got grit on it, or dropped the polisher on the car whatever - that's a whole other game. take time, be careful obviously I mean it's your damn car right?

Don't take my word for it - there are videos. ONe dude from I thinks Adam's car car lays a buffer on his show car vette wth the pearl blue paint and leans on the machine (also something you shouldn't do) and again. 3 minutes of nothing.


dumbazz tips - tape off rubbers and other spots you don't want to get polish residue on - like that lower end of the bumber and the windshield trims. I use blue painters tape.


finally for the rubbers keep something on them - I like meguirs here too.
 






Seems like a lot of work for something the owner admitted "It's just a car".
I had my 2011 Limited for 3 years and the MKT for 2 years so far. Never waxed either one and the finishes on both looked like new. Of course they weren't black either.

Peter
 






Seems like a lot of work for something the owner admitted "It's just a car".
I had my 2011 Limited for 3 years and the MKT for 2 years so far. Never waxed either one and the finishes on both looked like new. Of course they weren't black either.

Peter

Looks are deceiving Peter...
The difference between a "regularly" waxed vehicle and one that isn't; is night and day.
Based on your ownership experience, it's understandable to do the bare min, considering you're leasing.
 






Seems like a lot of work for something the owner admitted "It's just a car".
I had my 2011 Limited for 3 years and the MKT for 2 years so far. Never waxed either one and the finishes on both looked like new. Of course they weren't black either.

Peter

you drive very little and I suspect you also park in a garage too.

so not exactly the same situation.

I didn't say it was for everyone. ANd a shop will indeed do that work for you but it costs a good bit and you don't know just how well they will do the work.

Detail shop in my 'hood' for what I describe on a new, new car costs 600 dollars.

my time for a day is worth that easily. but I like to tinker too.

the tool investment works for other thngs and washing - well I bet most of you are washing your car wrong too.
 






3m's clear bra spray on is good for a front only cover for chip protection. I wouldn't coat a car with it. And you'd need like 5+ cans and some time to do the whole car.


If you don't want to go as deep as I describe above.

AT minimum do this.

wash car - again dish soap (cheap no name stuffs is fine)

meguiars clay bar - follow directions. (and yes do this just once please you'll be amazed at the crap on your car from the dealer)

then meguiars tech wax 2 which now comes in a spray IIRC. 3 coats that day.

coat again in 2-3 weeks.

coat again - say a year or so.
 






you drive very little and I suspect you also park in a garage too.
True on both counts.:thumbsup: Most of my driving is in the Winter months.

Peter
 






Seems like a lot of work for something the owner admitted "It's just a car".
I had my 2011 Limited for 3 years and the MKT for 2 years so far. Never waxed either one and the finishes on both looked like new. Of course they weren't black either.

Peter

It's a ridiculous amount of work and anyone who would do this to a "car" seriously needs to get a life. Modern car finishes just need to be kept clean and occasionally waxed. End of story!
 






It's a ridiculous amount of work and anyone who would do this to a "car" seriously needs to get a life. Modern car finishes just need to be kept clean and occasionally waxed. End of story!

Depends. No need on a lease. If you buy used at 2.5 years like me and look to hold as long as possible and the car is outside a lot, you need to protect the paint if you don't want the clear peeling or paint fading when the vehicle is 8-10 years old. My Saab is 13 years old and the black paint is mint. I don't use a permanent product (nothing is permanent), but it is always sealed with long lasting UPGP well before the sealant could wear off. Great thing about that product is WOWA - wipe on, walk away. Takes just a over 10 minutes on my Saab. Longer on the Ex.
 






It's a ridiculous amount of work and anyone who would do this to a "car" seriously needs to get a life. Modern car finishes just need to be kept clean and occasionally waxed. End of story!

please that's the condensed version of what show car people do.

oh and how many 5 year old cars do you see with hazed headlamp covers. or swirl marked, hazed or pocked paint from a 6 foot view?

I see quite a few.

meanwhile 140K miles and 7 years later my 09 G8 Gxp looks as clean and issue free as it did the week I brought it home.

OH but you know I only have polished it twice since owning it. every 2 months I put another coat of poly wax on it. Optimum spray wax - litterally spray on wipe off.


how far do you want to go is always the question.
 






OH the key behind that method - if you boil it back down

it's similar to painting furniture, walls, car parts etc.

prep work and cleanliness. the KEY of it all - for a new, new car is the clay bar IMO.

you'd be amazed how much crap it laying on your paint. Your Ex was brought to you buy rail and / truck bed from Chicago (I think they are all made there). don't be surprised to see orange of rust or black pits of Coal dust in the bar when you wipe it past. also don't be surprised to see or rather feel the paint get smoother.
 



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As previously posted, the longest lasting protection for paint is a coating, but the cost is high and the coating will not provide the same level of gloss or depth as a sealant or wax.

If the cost of the coating is too high, and you don't mind doing some work and learning a few techniques, then the best option is a paint sealant. A synthetic sealant will last longer that a traditional carnauba wax, but again the trade-off is that a wax will typically have more gloss and depth. Most people choose a sealant for the longer life on a daily driver or a vehicle that lives outside 24/7/365.

In response to other posts, I will assert that even "modern" paint needs protection from the elements to remain looking good. Acid rain, bird-droppings, tree sap, brake dust, road tar, and other junk has the very real potential to cause etching or other damage to the clear coat. In addition, rain and UV exposure absolutely will cause fading and drying out of the plastic and rubber trim, if left protected.

Note that neither a coating, paint sealant, or wax is applied to plastic or rubber trim, so these finishes need other protection. There are some sealants that can be applied to this trim to provide UV protection, or a more traditional trim dressing can be used, if it specifically lists UV protection. It is not hard to find a multitude of vehicle that are only a few years old that have black trim faded out to gray.

Further, having protection on the paint and trim also makes washing easier, as the junk that ends up on the vehicle is much, much easier to clean off, without having to scrub hard or use harsh cleaners.

The argument that "it is just a car" does not make any sense. These vehicles are expensive, and some preventative maintenance can keep them looking good. If you don't have any desire to spend time and money keeping your vehicle looking nice, and your only goal is for it to be "not dirty", then that is your choice, but it certainly does not warrant ridicule for those who choose to do so.

In addition, detailing is a hobby that many, including myself, enjoy doing and get satisfaction from having a vehicle that looks new, or even better than new, years and years later. Granted, this is not the case with the vast majority of the vehicles on the road.

The statement that these people need to "get a life" makes no sense, as the same statement could be made in response to any activity or hobby that does not interest you. For example, anyone that spends four hours each Saturday trying to hit a little white ball into a hole needs to "get a life". Anyone who spends most of a Sunday watching sports on TV needs to "get a life". Anyone who stays up late playing video games needs to "get a life". Anyone who gardens and grows their own food...you get the point. These are all activities that may interest some people, but not others.

To share a few addition tips to those interested, do not use dish soap on your vehicle, if used regularly it will dry out a cause fading to plastic and rubber trim. There are specific products that can be used to strip sealants and waxes, but for routine washing a pH balance car wash shampoo should be used. Also note that cheap shampoos do not provide the same performance as higher quality products do. When washing, the key to not introducing swirls and scratches is to have a shampoo that provides lots of lubrication to safely remove the dirt and crud from the vehicle.

Also, automatic car washes cause swirls and scratches with the dirty brushes, and touchless car washes use harsh chemicals that dry out and fade the trim. I have seen cars only a few years old that make weekly trips trough the tunnel-wash, and look 20 years old. Also, the harsh chemicals used will strip off any wax or sealant that you have applied.

I know, too long, didn't read. But if you read this far, and are interested in learning additional information, here is a detailing thread that I created for my Ford Raptor:

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f36/first-detail-adamized-raptor-33281/#post664813

My apologies for the re-direction to another forum, but my new 2016 Sport is still a few weeks from delivery. Once it arrives, it will be machine polished, with sealant applied to the paint, trim and wheels.

And a photo showing what a machine polished, fully detailed, properly protected vehicle can look like. This was photo taken at 14 months old, right after being polished for the first time.

IMG_6096c_zpsb6zgcze5.jpg


The truck is a daily driver, sleeps in the garage, and enjoys some off-roading fun in the sand dunes a couple times each year!

IMG_6664c_zpsanfxijdu.jpg
 






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