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Problems after roll

jared596

Member
Joined
December 9, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Charlotte,NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
'95 EB
About a year and a half ago my roommate rolled his 95 explorer. I bought it for $500 bucks so I could use it for my senior project with mech engineering. For the time being though I'm going to register it and drive it to make sure the drivetrain is healthy. Heres my problems thus far:

*Drivers side window will roll down and up, but it seems to have its own agenda as far as when it will work. As of yet I havent had any hesitancy when trying to roll it down, but sometimes it will not roll up. I have to turn it off and start it later to get it to roll back up. I know the switches and the motors have a rep for going bad in these things, but i've never heard of it happening like this.

*My front end has some loud noise when i turn, especially in 4wd. I'm gonna guess this is something that is bent, but maybe you fellas know something that is common to break?

*It seems to have lost its balls somewhere along the way. Like its always tired or something. Have to really punch the gas to get the go juices going. Anybody got any ideas? I've got no engine lights and it idles fantastic.

*There is a slight issue when I'm revving the engine. It seems to fluctuate about +/- 25rpms when held static at any given point. Smokes pretty good when first started but goes away almost entirely after its warm. Used to smoke like heck all the time, but I'm guessing that was oil burning out of the heads/exhaust system after the roll.

*Some of the electrical boxes on the front end got smashed up. Particularly the one on the drivers side inner fender. What is that thing?

I dumped some seafoam in the crankcase last night and let it warm up. I'm gonna change the oil today and have a look at the front end. I had to change the driver's side knuckle before i could even drive it cause it looked like this ---> | \ I might have to change the passenger side knuckle too because its not perfectly straight. The front's got two diff size tires on it (235 vs. 225) but i'm going to remedy that problem today as well. I've heard the l/s rear ends dont handle the size diff very well but i have to try it to see how it does. Please let me know any solutions anyone has to any of these problems. Particularly the smoking. Its driving me nuts.

On a side note, future plans include a 4 linked D44 up front and a 4 link for the factory 8.8 :salute:
 



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Try a new fuel filter--

Alright I'll go grab one from advance. For clarity, do you think the oil flooding up (after the roll) would have clogged it or do you think its just gone bad?
 






Alright I'll go grab one from advance. For clarity, do you think the oil flooding up (after the roll) would have clogged it or do you think its just gone bad?

Sludge on bottom of tank goes to top of tank when it is upside down.
 






You also might want to try cleaning the MAF sensor.
 






Sludge on bottom of tank goes to top of tank when it is upside down.

It didnt go all the way upside down, just flopped on the passenger's side. If the pickup is on that side I'd imagine it'd be the same effect though.

You also might want to try cleaning the MAF sensor.

Where is that located, what do i need to clean it, how hard is it to do? Thanks.
 


















So I'm about to get back at this beast and I'd like some more advice. I'm going to try to SAS it over the summer and I'm wondering just what axle will be my best choice. I really want to go coil sprung with it because the leaf springs seem to wreak havoc on a rig's approach angle. Any suggestions on what rig to steal a 44 from if i'm going coils? I've been looking around and it seems like everything i find is leaf sprung. I've also read several of the SAS registry threads, including 'captain morgan', and it seems like all the threads with decent detail are doing leaf springs. Why so few coil sprung rigs? Is it really that hard to set up?

Also, I took the factory bumper off of it recently and now I've got a pesky air bag dummy light on all the time. How can I kill that stupid thing?

And I still have no clue what my smashed up electrical box on the inner driver's side fender is for. Any ideas?
 






*Drivers side window will roll down and up, but it seems to have its own agenda as far as when it will work. As of yet I havent had any hesitancy when trying to roll it down, but sometimes it will not roll up. I have to turn it off and start it later to get it to roll back up. I know the switches and the motors have a rep for going bad in these things, but i've never heard of it happening like this.

Look at the wire harness as it goes through from the door to the body, look for frayed/cracked wires


*My front end has some loud noise when i turn, especially in 4wd. I'm gonna guess this is something that is bent, but maybe you fellas know something that is common to break?

If you are in 4WD and on dry pavement, noises happen, and breakage usually follows closely behind. Since you have 2 different size tires on the same axle, that compounds the problems. If you are on a slippery surface and getting noises, it still may be the diff size tires, but I would start to suspect the CV's, seeing as how the knuckle was bent so badly, the CV's are probably on there way out.

*It seems to have lost its balls somewhere along the way. Like its always tired or something. Have to really punch the gas to get the go juices going. Anybody got any ideas? I've got no engine lights and it idles fantastic.

Did the fuel filter / MAF cleaning help? Also look for vacuum leaks, there's a thread on here with useful tips in doing that.

*There is a slight issue when I'm revving the engine. It seems to fluctuate about +/- 25rpms when held static at any given point. Smokes pretty good when first started but goes away almost entirely after its warm. Used to smoke like heck all the time, but I'm guessing that was oil burning out of the heads/exhaust system after the roll.

plugs fouled, again, possible vacuum.

*Some of the electrical boxes on the front end got smashed up. Particularly the one on the drivers side inner fender. What is that thing?


If you're talking about the one near the firewall, it's the Power distribution block, very important, big fuses in there, I'm amazed it didn't catch fire if it's smashed, as it's a straight shot from that box to the positive battery terminal there, no fuses.


Good luck, and keep us posted with your progress!
 






Daffy, thank you very much for your reply.

I'll try to grab another power distributor block off a junker exploder in a week or two when i go for parts. Also I'll take a look at that wiring harness this weekend. The plugs for sure arent fouled - i've changed them recently. And I guess it's time to figure out the vacuum leaks... :(

Any suggestions on which solid 44 to pick for my coil sprung swap?
 






The ABS Module is located in the inner fender on the drivers side.
 






For the smoking at start up, that is usually from worn valve guides. Oil runs down past the guides while off, and the buildup in the cylinders turns to smoke. If it isn't causing noticeable oil loss, or constant smoking, live with it. Take care of the electrical system well, you don't want a fire. Regards,
 






For the smoking at start up, that is usually from worn valve guides. Oil runs down past the guides while off, and the buildup in the cylinders turns to smoke. If it isn't causing noticeable oil loss, or constant smoking, live with it. Take care of the electrical system well, you don't want a fire. Regards,

The engine's only got like 140k. My ranger of the same year has 200k and the valve guides are still perfectly fine on it. I'm thinking more along the lines of damage due to high rpm's for a long time after the roll (for instance if the throttle hung open)
 






check the fuel pump cut off switch...that trips in major crashes/ rollovers/being kicked ( i tripped mine by kicking it accidently once)
 






power windows

I had an issue with my power windows that I couldn't figure out. It ended up being the Relay which is right above the gas pedal under the dash. The big square relay was the problem
 






OK, so now I'm on to step 2. Step 1, cleaning up after the roll, still isn't completely done but I'm bored and I need a truck. Anyhow, tonight i'm going to rip off the passenger side fender, do a TT lift to get a couple more inches in the front and try to squeeze my 35's under it. Hopefully there will be enough room in the front with no fenders on either side... I'll post pictures tonight.
 






Just to let you know that this is the "STOCK" forum.
When you start talking about modifications for your truck, please use the appropriate forum, in this case that would be the Modified 1995-2001 forum.
Thanks. :)
 






Just to let you know that this is the "STOCK" forum.
When you start talking about modifications for your truck, please use the appropriate forum, in this case that would be the Modified 1995-2001 forum.
Thanks. :)

I noticed this... I was hoping it wouldn't be too much trouble for a mod to simply move it over to the modified forum if it was too much modification for the stock forum. That said, i guess i'll start a new thread over there for the pictures. In case anyone cares, I got the 35's to fit the front without any lift. Just took a BFH and complete removal of the front fenders. Pics tomorrow, hopefully after the SOA and the addition of the 35's to the rear...
 



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Take care of your ABS issues yet?

A quick/cheap thing to try that even if it doesn't solve anything is to replace your rear ABS sensor. You have 3 sensors total, one on each front hub and the other is on top of the rear differential. They're well under $20 to replace and it's a 30 minute job tops. And that includes getting under the truck and then cleaning up afterwards.

The one thing I'd recommend is to take a wire brush or rough rag and try to wipe away any dirt/rust that formed around the sensor. Unplug the sensor first though so you don't damage the wiring.
 






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