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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
yep. the tacoma struggles a little more towing, but it's got a full warranty and better gas mileage. its not as cool to roll up in, but it is a nicer drive
If you want a little more stregth on the perches you could box the ends in. That will give you another 5" of weld on each perch to the axle tube. Should be plenty strong.
If you want 16" rims I will sell you mine off my truck. $100 for 4 of them. Even come with a cool white wall tire as well.
Honestly? It looks like crap and I would not trust it! There is a butt load of stress on those welds and they need to be done right- ask me how I know? Because I broke the first set I welded due to improper penetration. I tried to get a mustang off the line in the rain about a year after I welded mine . When I launched, I heard a bang. My pinion rotated straight up, broke my driveshaft and I coasted over to the side of the road. Then I got to pull whay was left of my driveshaft in a suit in the rain and limp home in front wheel drive! The original welds looked good, but I welded them too cold. They were still intact after it broke in fact- still attached to the broke off perches!
Now I weld perches on with my buzz box turned up to about 180 and 7K lbs tensile strength rod (7018). If it were mine I would use that as a tack weld and go over it properly with the right amount of heat. My bet is that you have not gotten any penetration into the thick axle tubes. Beveling the perch will not cure that issue.
5 on 5.5 16x8 black steelies. I think they have 4" of backspace or so. dont quote me on the backspace for sure. I need 17" for my new used tires I got otherwise I would just keep them.
the pinion angle is whatever the stock F-150 was set at, since i just lined them up with the original pads from the new axle. pinion angle doesn't look too bad to me. i could always use a shim to make it better if need be
the pinion angle is whatever the stock F-150 was set at, since i just lined them up with the original pads from the new axle. pinion angle doesn't look too bad to me. i could always use a shim to make it better if need be
You need to get the full weight of the truck on it, to set the proper angle. Always go 3 or so degrees pinion down, from what it should be. This way under load your pinion will line up right to the rest of the driveline.
At the driveshaft flange, measure the angle the tcase is tilted down. Your Axle should be equal, but opposite at the drieshaft flange. Ex. Say your tcase points down 7 degrees, your pinion should point up 7 degrees. There is some discussion on the 3 degrees up or down, but most agree on equal and opposite. This is done so the ujoints on each end of a non cv driveshaft break at the same angle and your driveline does not vibrate.
When I set up my SOA, I didn't know about the angle thing either and I pointet my pinion straight at the t-case. IE, there is no angle on the rear u joint and the frony has all the angle. It's been running like that for about 9 years now and the only time I got drive shaft vibration was when I bent it in a roll over.
I agree that the angles should be equal to eliminate ALL vibration, just stating that it can be fine with the angles not being equal. Posted via Mobile Device
When I set up my SOA, I didn't know about the angle thing either and I pointet my pinion straight at the t-case. IE, there is no angle on the rear u joint and the frony has all the angle. It's been running like that for about 9 years now and the only time I got drive shaft vibration was when I bent it in a roll over.
I agree that the angles should be equal to eliminate ALL vibration, just stating that it can be fine with the angles not being equal. Posted via Mobile Device
Without some angle the needles in the cap will not move and they will gum up and the joint will fail. Pointing at the t-case is for if you have a cardian joint at the t-case.
Get the weight of the truck on the suspension and see how the pinion lines up. You might be good with what you have. It's hard to tell when the suspension is unloaded as the picture shows. might be able to get away with an angle shim to correct it.
Without some angle the needles in the cap will not move and they will gum up and the joint will fail. Pointing at the t-case is for if you have a cardian joint at the t-case.
I am not arguing with you. And as I said, that pinion agle was set 9 years ago when I first did the SOA. I think I am still running the same u-joint there and it hasn't failed yet. It's driven itself twice to T-haven(1200 miles) and once to Moab (1153 miles) and was a daily driver for it's first 4 of 9 years before it became a trailer queen. I did nick and twist the driveshaft in two pieces, but the u-joint is fine. All I am saying is that I don't think it is as important as it is on a jeep that has a shorter driveshaft with larger angles. Also, for R.J. type of wheeling, high speed washes, it wouldn't hurt to ensure the driveline angles are correct. I was just throwing my .02 cents in and speaking from my own personal experience.
what do I know I pointed mine about 4 degrees up from pointing at the tcase. totally backwards. I did it to help keep the pinion and the bottom of the driveshafts out of the rocks. My truck is mostly trailered so I am not to conserned. I think the unbalanced and chunked out tires are my main vibration problem.
good point rockranger. i'll see if it looks acceptable when its sitting on its wheels and not jack stands. hopefully it'll be good enough. besides im going to be doing dual cases soon enough and shortening the drive shaft, so angles will be changing again.
I also did my first soa with out a angle finder. They are cheap. before you burn it in you should measure your tcase and set it up right.
its probably the smallest lincoln welder you can get but i've never broken a weld,
