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Questions regarding suspension work for 2002 Sport Trac

SeanTrvs

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March 18, 2015
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City, State
Evans, Ga
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Sport Trac RWD
So I had a crazy, and probably dumb idea, to make my Sport Trac more of a street truck. The one thing I cannot get any information on is how to USEFULLY lower these things. Not going for the slammed look or sitting on bags, but want to put the "Sport" into Sport Trac.
Most go the rear block and tt route, but this provides more cons than pros. Are there any kits or methods anyone has done to provide a 2"-4" inch drop and a considerable handling bonus? (Yes I'm aware it's a heavy truck that wasn't built for handling.)
I do plan on adding new sway bars and shocks after its lowered. Also have plans to do a V8 swap when time allows.
Any info in any any way relating to making the Sporg Trac sportier, please share.
 



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Swshawaii has lowered his, search some of his post for more ideas. Addition to sway bars/ shocks would be bushings and end links. He also has a post floating around on what he used for shortened rear links.

Any change from stock, lowered or raised, will have cons depending on how extreme. I thinks it's a matter of finding the best in between
 






Swshawaii has lowered his, search some of his post for more ideas. Addition to sway bars/ shocks would be bushings and end links. He also has a post floating around on what he used for shortened rear links.

Any change from stock, lowered or raised, will have cons depending on how extreme. I thinks it's a matter of finding the best in between

With the suspension, in just very weary of the blocks in the back. It seems like everyone has done either blocks or mono leafs, both of which are death traps at 300+ hp.
Thanks for the tips.
 






Thanks Kyle. I've had a 2.75" front and 3" rear drop over five years without issues but have no intention of using it at the track. I'm using the conventional method using drop keys only because torsion bolt removal gave me only 1.5 inches and the key "flip" seemed kind of hack to me. Rear is lowered with 3" cast iron blocks. Agree, and would never consider using that kind of power to the rear wheels due to axle wrap and other issues. Seems to me your only other option would be air bags or some serious custom work I've never seen except for show only trucks seen on CarDomain, etc. There have been several Gen 1 ST's fitted with 5.0 V8's or superchargers but they never seem to mention street handling manners.

You've probably seen these 5.0 conversions but just in case.

02 V8 Sport Trac build
http://rangerfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?p=30338

5.0 Swap is officially complete!!
http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1346788
http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/memberlib.asp?view=22679&folder=V8 Swapped Trac
 






You could easily use lowering blocks and then add traction bars to the truck. I see plenty of guys with Powerstrokes with 6" of lift pushing 650HP at the wheels and they do fine because of the traction bars.

If you lower the front with the TT, then it's the same as lifting. If done in moderation, you'll be just fine. And as stated above, larger sway bars and replacing what you can with poly bushings instead of rubber will add to the rigidity.

Of all the people on here, Steve is definitely the brain to pick in this area.

Maybe vroomzoomboom too. I think he's lowered a couple 2nd gen ex's.
 






You could easily use lowering blocks and then add traction bars to the truck. I see plenty of guys with Powerstrokes with 6" of lift pushing 650HP at the wheels and they do fine because of the traction bars.

If you lower the front with the TT, then it's the same as lifting. If done in moderation, you'll be just fine. And as stated above, larger sway bars and replacing what you can with poly bushings instead of rubber will add to the rigidity.

Of all the people on here, Steve is definitely the brain to pick in this area.

Maybe vroomzoomboom too. I think he's lowered a couple 2nd gen ex's.

Didn't even think about traction bars, great idea! A lot cheaper than a coilover conversion. With the TT up front, is it about 2" max drop? Thanks!
 






Yup 1/4" wall DOM and 7/8" or 1" heim joints will be plenty strong for any application and they're fairly simple to make.

As far as the drop, I'm not really sure. I would judge it based on the angle of you CVs, but hopefully someone else can chime in on a real number.

Also, I'll have to dig around, but I do know that the STs have the stiffest T-bars of all the RBVs and a lighter one might be good for your application. For guys lowering the big trucks (3/4 and 1 tons) they will use 4400lb coil springs instead of the standard 5200lb springs.
 






As 01STrunner says, if 4wd you will be limited to around a 2" front drop to prevent CV bind. Be aware of extreme UCA
ball joint angles and front and rear bump stop clearance. I believe the biggest reason I retained good ride quality
with the benefit of improved handling after lowering was using the stock profile 235/70-16 Michelin Latitude Tour street tires combined with soft Monroe Sensatrac shocks. For me it was the choice between looks or ride quality. Regarding performance shocks, research the Doetsch Tech Nitro Slammer's linked that are valved specifically for lowered trucks.

http://www.doetsch-shocks.com/3.asp
 






Can't find where I saved that chart but I found this:

"T bar ratings range from 1,2 A, B, D , E , F (I think those are the right letters). 1 being the stiffest, F being the softest. I'm not sure how the t-bars were distributed throughout years/models/options though."

Found in this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71967
 






I read that about t bars also- our st comes w/ #1 being the stiffest. Actually lots of ex swap out the tbar for ones that are from a st

Looks like you don't have 4wd so I guess you wouldn't have to worry about cv w/ to much angle like how they say no more than 2" lift if 4wd. Would think its the same for lowering
 






Trying to decide between Caltracs and slapper bars... I think for ~400hp with a V8 I think the slappers will suffice. I wish ranchero made their 9000 series shocks for lowered applications though. I really like the remote adjustability lol. Will look into those Nitro's!
 






I would venture to say either the Caltracs or custom, built to length bars over the other ones.
 






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2 months later its a new truck. I put Rancho 9000's, better roll bars, new bushings etc., and lowered it a bit. What a difference! I have the Ranchos set at 9 in front and 7 in back and its stiff, but not uncomfortable. Next expenditure will be wheels and tires.. Eagle RS-A's are nice, but taking corners on a 16in wheel with a fat tires is iffy. The Centerline wheels I have on just aren't for me. Looks like i'll be spending some $$$ to get good looking wheels that have a decent load rating.

Are there any ex's produced with 4:10's, lsd, and disk brakes? Definitely want to get discs on the rear lol
 






Glad to see its coming along! And yes there were (as well as 03-05 STs) but you'd have to check the axle tags or door jamb to know what gears it has.
 












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