Rear Jackshaft Bolt

[pergolies]

Hi all,
Can anyone tell me how to remove the rear jackshaft bolt which holds the right hand rear cam timing chain sprocket. I have removed the front bolt and sprocket, which was so tight and a nightmare to remove. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Cheers

Ken

 

[CDW6212R]

Have you tried holding the bolt on the right head, the camshaft bolt? If the rear chain is still connecting them, then you should be able to loosen the jackshaft chain while holding the cam still. The camshaft bolts are about 62lbs.ft. of torque to tighten. You are using the odd Torx socket to loosen those yes? Good luck,

 

[pergolies]

I did think of that but was worried it might damage the chains or something. I have the cam timing tool kit, i suppose the cam holding tool would hold everything tight while i undo the bolts yeah.
Yeah the jackshaft bolt has a size 55 torx fitting.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good, try that, the torque of the jackshaft bolts is very odd, something like 45lbs.ft. plus 90 degrees. I know the difficulty of loosening one bolt while holding another competing bolt. Hopefully the camshaft bolts are tighter than that bolt, the friction of assembled parts helps a bit. Regards,

 

[pergolies]

Thanks for that Don (you are certainly a god on this forum )
I'll try that in the morning and let you know.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's no magic, just a lot of fighting the same issues on past cars. Just think it through as you go, and plan for more time than the Ford techs take.

 

[pergolies]

Well holding the cam with the tool worked great. Got the rear chain cassette assembly out unfortunately when i was installing the new one and tightening the lower cassette bolt it sheared off. My torque wrench decided to packup on me and it didn't take any effort to shear the bolt . Luckily managed to get the damaged piece out, just got to wait for a new bolt from the dealer and get a new torque wrench.

 

[CDW6212R]

I understand about the torque wrench, that is a somewhat common occurrence with them. It is a bad feeling to have them not work, just keep tightening without reacting. It takes some practice to get used to that feeling. Good luck there, how did the rear cassette look, and the strength of the old rear tensioner?

 

[pergolies]

To be honest, i dont think neither the front or rear cassettes needed changing. They were already the upgraded cassettes as its a 1999 model (didn't know they had started fitting the uprades from that year on). As i had already pulled the engine i thought i might aswell renew all the chains, sprockets, guides and tensioners on both the cams and jackshaft just to be safe. I did the cam tensioners and inlet manifold gasket fix kit about 6 months previous (hoping it would fix the rattle, NOT) so they cam tensioners were fine.

So my thinking is that on the 99 model on, the rattle comes from the jackshaft tensioner and guide. There was alot of play in the chain between the sprocket and tensioner as well as a small amount of play in the chain between the guide and sprocket. The new tensioner and guide that replaces the older parts are longer in length and therefore eliminates this play.

 

[CDW6212R]

I believe that there were no new designed cassettes until the 2002 model year. All of the recalls that were done for the front cassettes installed 2002 year part numbers. My 99 cassettes had a noticeable difference in the cassette which I replaced. It was more than just a plastic color difference, the 2002 parts are different than the 1999 parts. I also changed the jackshaft chain and tensioner, but the tensioner was not really different in strength from the new part.

Both of my cam chain tensioners were weaker than the new parts, the front just slightly, it had been done before.

 

[Jamieh560]

If you are talking about the the spocket on the right hand side cam... its reverse thread... The sprocket on the jackshaft itself is regular thread and wasn't to bad for me to get off... hold the front inverse torx bolt with a wrench... the rear should break lose first...

Jamie