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How to: SOHC V6 Camshaft Timing

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This is a half old thread I know but I'm in the process of trying to retime my 02 Ranger after having to replace the driver side head.

I bought the (extorsion) special tools and did everything to the letter. Turned the key. I have to crank it a good couple seconds before it fires, but then runs like CRAP anyway.

I'm wondering if somehow I got one of the cams 180 out??

The tools are pretty much idiot proof but wow wtf am I doing wrong?
 






Double check the TDC mark specific to your year vehicle I'll email you a 02 mark probably tomorrow (not at home currently). Measure 1 5/8 from the head to the top of the slot on the opposite end of the cam gear this is the centerline of cam at TDC. .. Google Alien Designed engines Read it twice or three times it is one of the best text I've found on timing SOHC engine I did not get it the first time I read it. IN THE TEXT IS A PICTURE OF THE FLATS BEHIND THE CAM GEAR WHICH CAN BE SPANNED WITH AN 1 1/2 " WRENCH HARBOR FRIEGHT SPECIAL. NOTE THE POSITION OF THE FLATS ON THE BEEFED UP AREA IN THE PICTURE WHEN THE ENGINE IS TDC ALL THE ENGINES I'VE DONE THAT ARE 1 5/8" FROM TOP OF HEAD TO TOP OF SLOT AND THE FLATS BEHIND THE CAM GEAR ON THE CAM ARE IN THE POSITION IN THE PICTURE ARE IN TIME.
 






1999 explorer sohc clater

Hi I'm new here. I use to be mechanic many years ago and have been in automotive for many yrs. I have replaced the timing chains plus the right head
(bent valves) . I tripled checked everything I did as this is one weird engine. I made dead sure everything was lined up properly. When I started it up, talk about rattle (wow). I thought well lets let the oil pressure get up. but it got worse and the motor runs rough. Can someone tell me what the *&&% is wrong with this thing? I know that the cams were lined up as I checked them enough times and I used the proper tools to do this.
 












Thanks will do that. Bad compression will cause to run rough. But why the loud rattling?
 






lash adjusters?

The hydraulic lash adjusters often lose oil when removed which results in excess clearance and valve rattle. It can take up to 30 minutes of running the engine at cruise to restore the oil in the lash adjusters. However, I advise against doing that until you confirm the timing is correct.

Did you replace the hydraulic/spring cassette tensioners? If so, did you test them before installation by manually compressing and releasing the pistons?
 






thanks 2000 street rod

Yes I did check the cassets and the hydraulic tensioners plus they are all new. I will look into this tomorrow I didn't think that it would take that long to pump them up and the noise it was making was like it was b4 I fixed it, and I was concerned about causing damage. I hope that's what it is. I will check the timinhg again even though I have already done this about 3 times alreeady, but who knows I've screwed up before. Thanks for the advice
 






Did you also change the balance shaft chain guide?

If the tensioners aren't pumping up, you can prefill them by dunking them in some oil and working them in and out a bit.

It sounds like something is letting the chain(s) still slap around for some reason.
 






sohc chain rattle

Yep I changed all of them includinng the balance shaft one had to the old one was broken
 






Apparently there is a special tool to lock the rear sprocket of the jackshaft, preventing it from rotating, so you can bolt/unbolt it: does anyone know the part number for this tool?
 






The tool you are looking for is OTC 303-634. I have one and used when I did my 2000 4.0L
 












Play in jackshaft sprocket

There are no keys on the SOHC V6 jackshaft front or rear sprockets, the left camshaft sprocket nor the right camshaft sprocket. The sprockets are held in position entirely by the force exerted by their retaining bolts.

There are two sprockets on the front of the jackshaft. The inner one fits over the end of the shaft with no key. This sprocket drives the left camshaft. The outer sprocket is larger and is driven by the chain from the crankshaft, so it drives the jackshaft which in turn drives both of the camshafts. This outer sprocket has a shaft and fits into a hole in the end of the jackshaft and when the bolt is tightened it pinches the inner sprocket against the end of the jackshaft.

The shaft on the outer sprocket has two flat surfaces and mates into a "Double-D" hole. This sprocket cannot turn on the end of the shaft even if the bolt is not torqued down tightly.

My concern...The shaft on my sprocket does not mate tightly against the flat surfaces in the Double-D hole resulting in some play in the sprocket--maybe as much as five degrees play. Is it supposed to mate tightly to prevent this play? I'm worried that it needs to be tight since it exerts more torque than the other two jackshaft sprockets.
 






loose outer sprocket

Below is what you're calling the outer sprocket.
Exp019.jpg

And below is what you're calling the inner sprocket.
JackPriSprocket.jpg

And here is the jackshaft with no sprockets.
JackKeep.jpg

Here's a photo of the Ford primary timing chain kit (PN 2U3Z-6D256-CA).
MainKit.jpg


I was not aware that there is any play possible between the outer sprocket and its shaft. I thought it was one assembly with the sprocket pressed on the shaft. I wonder if I'm wrong or if yours is broken. I still have my old one somewhere. I'll try to find it tomorrow and examine it closely.
 






Here's how I got a cam out by 180 degrees

This is a half old thread I know but I'm in the process of trying to retime my 02 Ranger after having to replace the driver side head.

I bought the (extorsion) special tools and did everything to the letter. Turned the key. I have to crank it a good couple seconds before it fires, but then runs like CRAP anyway.

I'm wondering if somehow I got one of the cams 180 out??

The tools are pretty much idiot proof but wow wtf am I doing wrong?

Not quite idiot proof... I established TDC for cylinder 1 , and did the first cam, but by the time I got to the second cam I noticed I was off TDC by a few degrees. No problem, just rotate the crankshaft clockwise until at TDC again { ERROR ... of course to re-establish TDC for cylinder 1 again, I should have rotated the crank twice around!} Once around for the crank only rotated the first cam 180 degrees. Now, setting the second as per the usual procedure resulted in cams mistimed by 180 degrees! Oops. An apparently easy fix however, as cam position is completely 're-adjustable' with just the camshaft retaining bolt. BUT! when re-positioning a camshaft don't forget that at TDC two pistons are at the top. Whichever cam you are going to spin 180 degrees could cause a valve to hit an elevated piston. So I plan to temporarily rotate crank so that affected pistons are NOT at the top of the cylinders before loosening and spinning the affected camshaft 180 degrees. The 180 is likely to be only close, so at that point I will temporarily re-tighten the cam retaining bolt, accurately re-set to TDC, and then repeat the normal precise timing procedure.
 






Notes:

The camshaft sprocket bolts are not torque to yield and may be reused.

The jackshaft front and rear sprocket bolts are torque to yield and may not be reused.

The crankshaft damper bolt is a torque to yield and may not be reused.

The following tasks require separation of the engine and transmission. Accessibility to accomplish the task is significantly improved by pulling the engine rather than the transmission.
1. Rear timing chain replacement (requires flywheel/flexplate removal)
2. Rear timing chain guide assembly replacement
3. Jackshaft removal (requires flywheel/flexplate removal)
4. Jackshaft rear sprocket replacement (requires flywheel/flexplate removal)

Related Ford part numbers:

Jackshaft/primary timing chain kit 2U3Z6D256CA includes:
Crankshaft bolt harmonic balancer E7RY6A340B
Tensioner-engine jackshaft chain YL2Z6L266AA
Gasket-cylinder/timing front cover F77Z6020AB
Sprocket/gear-engine jackshaft/intermediate 2U3Z6M264AA
Guide-engine jackshaft chain 2L2Z6K297AA
Bolt-jackshaft sprocket bolt F77Z6M264BA superseded by 2L2Z6279AA (included when 2U3Z6M264AA is purchased)
Sprocket/gear-crankshaft two wheel drive 2L2Z6306BA
Chain-engine jackshaft F77Z6268AB
Bolt-camshaft sprocket right hand
Bolt-camshaft sprocket left hand F77Z6279BA

Left/front timing chain cassette assembly 7U3Z6A257A includes:
Timing chain
Guide assembly YL2Z6M273AA superseded by 7U3Z6A257A
Bolt-guide assembly upper mount
Sprocket/gear-camshaft
Sprocket/gear-jackshaft front

Right/rear timing chain cassette assembly 4L2Z6M290AA includes:
Timing chain
Guide assembly
Sprocket/gear-camshaft
Sprocket/gear-jackshaft rear

00M12 intake manifold kit YL2Z9E473AA includes:
Lower intake manifold gasket set of six YL2Z9461AA
Upper intake manifold gasket set of two YL2Z9E436AA
Left timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254B
Tensioner metal O ring XU2Z6M252AA
Oil restrictor
Galley plug

Right timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254A supersedes XU3Z6K254BA

Right timing chain guide assembly upper postioning bolt F77Z6U000BA

Jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt W703167S430

Cover assy/rear of block jackshaft opening plug F77Z6026AB

Left cassette assembly lower mounting bolt W500100S300

Jackshaft chain guide mounting bolt W500100S300

Sprocket/gear-crankshaft inner four wheel drive F77Z6306BE

Sprocket/gear - crankshaft outer four wheel drive 2L2Z6306AA

Balance shaft chain guide F77Z6K297BC

Balance shaft chain tensioner 1L2Z6L266AA

Balance shaft chain F77Z6268BC

Balance shaft assembly 1L2Z6A311AA

Seal-front timing cover E6TZ6700A was superseded by 5H2Z6700AA

Gasket set-valve cover F77Z6584AE

Gasket-lower oil pan 4L2Z6710AA year 2000+ F77Z6710BA year 1997-1999

Gasket-upper oil pan/reinforcement section F77Z6710AA

Left camshaft F7TZ6250AEE was superseded by 7L2Z6250D

Right camshaft F77Z6250AE

Exhaust manifold outlet bolts (M12-1.75X54.5 H) N811747S2[/QUOTE]


Are the rear and front jackshaft sprocket bolts the same? I see listed here the rear jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt is listed as W703167S430, but I can't quite determine if the front jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt is called out by a different name here. Could someone please help clarify the part number for the front jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt?

Thank you,
Morgan
 












Hey 2000streetrod, how can I rotate the cams without taking off the head to get proper time? It seems tight.
 



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