Rebuilt 5r/4r no reverse

[Gator417]

I rebuilt a 2wd 5r converted to 4wd 4r and just got it back in my truck. I used the case, bellhousing, VB, internals, and pump from the 5r and the externals, output shaft, nosecone and TC from the 4r.
My two issues are no reverse and no overdrive. The TC is locking up just fine, and the shifts are smooth and firm, both up & down.
I'm guessing overdrive just needs a band adjustment which I will get to in a couple of days, so no big disappointment there.
Reverse is very disappointing to me though. I noticed the reverse band was very loose in the case when I was assembling everything. I also dropped the tranny a couple of times from the jack when installing it. My best guess, as much as I hate to think about it, is that the reverse band has moved enough that it doesn't engage either the lugs or the servo or both.
Does this sound like it might be the issue? If so, is there a way it can be fixed without a complete teardown?
Thanks,
Gator

 

[Gator417]

Now my tranny has completely stopped working. Is there anybody who has experienced this before? My best guess is the EPC solenoid, but that may be just my wishful thinking. I don't know what else to try. It really ran 1-2-3 well before it stopped, but started having a flare-up a day or 2 before it quit on me. I really appreciate the help I've gotten from this forum so far & would deeply appreciate a little more.
Gator

 

[BrooklynBay]

Both transmissions use a different range sensor & EPC solenoid. Did you swap them when you did the rebuild? The valve body gaskets are different on both valve bodies as well, and shouldn't be interchanged. Did you use a 1/4" drive In/LB torque wrench on the valve body bolts?

 

[Gator417]

When I bought my rebuild kit for the vb, there was only one kit for both trannies. The kit I used for the tranny was for the 5r. I don't remember which EPC solenoid I used. They both looked identical, so I think I just used the one from the 5r (120k miles). I did not use a torque wrench for the vb bolts. I bought one, specifically for this, but it only went down to 120 in/lbs. I suspected that may be an issue, so I was very careful to get them all snuggeed down as close to the same as I could. I also swapped the DTR from the 4r because the 5r model has a different connector.
Am I right in thinking it may be the EPC? Would that, in connectin with improper torque on those bolts cause it to work, then go out?
Thanks again Brooklyn,
Gator

 

[BrooklynBay]

The separator plates & valve body gaskets are different, and aren't interchangeable. The 4R55E has a green band EPC, and the 5R55E has a red band EPC. The torque wrench is important to use. You don't want valves to bind because some sections are tighter than others.

 

[Gator417]

I did use the vb, separator plate and gaskets all from the 5r. Basically, I rebuilt the 5r as a 5r and only used a few items from the 4r that were necessary to interface with the truck itself, such as the DTR sensor. Thanks again, I will scare up the proper torque wrench and make sure I have the proper EPC in place.
Gator

 

[JK080]

If the transmission has completely stop moving I would not suspect the EPC or the torque spec of the valve body bolts for that.

Instead I would looking for pump pressure or at least verify the pump is working. Line pressure gauge would be helpful, if no gauge check cooler flow or see if the fluid level drops with the engine running.

 

[Gator417]

Update

Pulled the tranny again & the forward clutches were all burnt, just like last time. Replaced them, got a new EPC solenoid from a local shop, who seemed very knowledgeable and were very helpful.
Reverse works great! Turns out it was just the band. All forward gears slip horribly. The OD light flashes upon start-up.
I didn't see anything unusual when I had the tranny apart. I looked very carefully at the VB to make sure everything was intact & compared it with the numerous pics I took last time.
The good news, I can get the whole thing out in about 2 hrs, and back in about 3! Not really something I've been striving for , but I'll take it. Once again, I appreciate everyone's advice. Its been very helpful.
One more question. What sort of gauge do I need to buy/rent to check line pressure? Is it the same as a fuel pressure gauge?
Gator

 

[BrooklynBay]

You need a 0 - 300 PSI gauge.

 

[Gator417]

Thanks Brooklynbay. I'll get that guage and maybe have time to test this weekend. Can I adjust the EPC to change the pressure or does that change a different pressure? I'm wondering if the EPC came with the wrong adjustment. Or maybe it was just built by a rookie...

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's better not to touch the adjusting screw. These parts have a limited lifespan since they are considered high wear parts. The pulse width modulated signal that controls it make it run continuously unlike an on/off shift solenoid. The TCC solenoid is modulated the same way as this part.

 

[Gator417]

Any other ideas on why I'm slippling out of gear so bad. Reverse is bumping into gear fine, but it goes into forward so subtly, it can hardly be felt. Anything past about 30% throttle sends it slipping out again.
Gator

 

[JK080]

Is the center support bolt tight?

Air check the forward clutches through the case, see if its a solid thud or lots of air.

 

[Gator417]

JK,
Thanks for the input. Not sure if you picked this up, but you're dealing with a rookie here! Don't know what the center support bolt is, and definitely don't know how to air check the forward clutches. I'm not a buffoon, but I don't necessarily have all the terminology down just yet. You don't have to hold my hand & walk me through it, but if you could point me in the right direction, I'd be very grateful.
Gator

 

[BrooklynBay]

The center support bolt is under the valve body. An air test substitutes compressed air for hydraulic fluid. You'll hear a clunk sound if that section is responding correctly. They make a special air test plate for this type of test. This test is performed with the valve body removed from the vehicle as well.

 

[JK080]

No problem I can give you direction for these tests, First this is the center support bolt, its a 5mm Allen head bolt. If its missing or loose this will cause the oil for the forward clutches to leak between the case and support. So if you dont have this bolt this will cause the forward clutches to fail.

 

[Gator417]

Sweet. I thought that would be it. Yes, I do remember turning that one in. I'm guessing this test plate is not an Auto Zone part. I'll get the pressure checked and see if that tells me anything.
Gator

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could find a Rotunda/OTC test plate on EBay. Sometimes they come in a red carry case along with a bunch of seal installer tools.