Redranger4.0, solid axle swap d44/9" | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Redranger4.0, solid axle swap d44/9"




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Solid Body mounts almost all cut out. My bandsaw blade finally let go just as it finished one. So I need to pick up another blade to cut the last two. I built in a 1/2" "body lift" into the pucks so it gives me a little bit more clearance around the trans/tcase.

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Where did you find the solid steel stock?
 












I got my motor mounts and some tabs in the mail today. along with some tabs, I thought the tabs were 1/4", turns out they are 3/8"...beefy.


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Had a spare couple of hours today. I got my crossmember all mounted up. So hopefully if everything goes well I can do the new motor mounts tomorrow.

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Will that make a difference compared a factory one being a rubber bushing?
 






Will that make a difference compared a factory one being a rubber bushing?

Hopefully, Im going to the poly bushings all around. The motor mounts use the same exact bushings I used on that crossmember.
 






think your front driveshaft will clear that crossmember?
 












Whoops!! Low pinion and long doubler...gotcha:)
 






Whoops!! Low pinion and long doubler...gotcha:)

Yea it will probably hit (hoping with my drivetrain setup it wont). Since my doubler is home made it is lonnnnngggg. Just about as much adapter length as there is 1350 crawl box. but its easy to clearance it once the drivelines are in anyways.
 












I already have a IFS Toyota Steering box, but Im not sure if the rearward swing IFS box is going to work with my highsteer setup as the drag link may hit the tierod on compression. So I picked up a FJ60 box which is the same as a IFS box but has a 4th mounting hole and is a forward swing box. Ill hold on to both boxes untill I get there and see which I will use.

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I gotta ask why aluminum for the solid body mounts? Why not use plastic or something else?

Any way nice work on the the crossmember. Oh and would you hurry up I want to see the finished product. ;)
 






Aluminum is usually easier to find locally than most engineering plastics. And its a breese to work with (compared to like steel - not that you would use steel for body mounts).
 






I got 2 feet of that aluminum stock for 60 dollars from McMaster. Its a easy material to work with and it was cheap.
 






Yea, I got to looking around and found the aluminum is cheaper than plastic but plastic is by far much easier to work with. Also, if weight was an issue why steel? :D
 






I've seen that aluminum body mounts are popular with the desert racing guys. Just an observation that im sure someone else could elaborate on.
 






I've seen that aluminum body mounts are popular with the desert racing guys. Just an observation that im sure someone else could elaborate on.

Because of their style cages the bodies need to be solid mounted.
 



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I bought a Eaton M90 S/C from a 93 Supercoupe yesterday. We will see how long the Trans/motor last with some boost.
 






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