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"Regearing" on a budget, some questions

94Jo

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City, State
lou.ky
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 navajo
After some research, I have quickly discovered that buying entire axles will be considerably cheaper than true regearing. I have no problem going to the junkyard and getting a full front and rear set, but I have some questions. What is the hightest ratio I cna hope to find that will be a drop in? I assume any first gen Ex and rangers of the same years will fit. And second gen rears correct? does anyone know how much this will weigh? I usually go to the yard by myself and I am worried about lifting and transporting the assemblies on my own. Also, is the process as easy as dropping the new parts in place of the old, I would assume no special tools or techniques are needed as compared to regearing. How much of the front assembly will I need? How long should it take, the ex is my daily car so I would have to comnplete it over a full weekend. Any questions to any of these numerous questions will be awesome. I am finding awesome deals on 32's and 31's but with 3.27's I am worried about drivability. Thanks to all in advance for your help.
 



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I believe that 4.10 is the highest you'll find. The rear of a 91 - 01 will work (95+) being disc brake. Search the site for making that work if you get one.

The ranger rear end won't work since they are spring over axle and 28 spline compared to your 31 spline.
 












Thanks for the response, the 4.10 is very rare right? Any years use them more or for example did more rangers use them as opposed to ex's?
 






If you pull something off 1 vehicle the 3.73 will be the best you find. Here's what you should do

1) Look all over for a 4cyl 4x4 Ranger with a Dana 35 TTB that might have 4.10 gears
2) find a 98+ Explorer 8.8 rear with 4.10 gears and you will upgrade to disc brakes

or
1) find a 91-94 Explorer with 3.73s and take both axles (or a 3.73 disc rear from a later model will again be better)

Pretty much all you will need to take this home is
1) advanced socket set
2) a 1 1/8" nut for removing drivers side radius arm to swing it out to remove 3rd member
2) some p-blaster for tough bolts
3) I suggest a saw or grinder (if you can get power from an extension cord or inverter to where you are working) for cutting the u-bolts off the rear axle. You won't want to reuse these ubolts anyway and they can be a pain to remove.
4) the necessary tools to pull the hubs off an auto or manual hub front axle
5) a good set of instructions on how to remove the axle shafts, rotor, spindle

rear axle will take 2 guys to lift it into the back of your explorer or a small trailer
the front pumpkin probably weighs 30-45 lbs. with the passenger side shaft hanging out of it.
 






So for the front all I need is the actual center section and not the rest of the front assembly? I was worried about taking apart "too far" and not having things put back together correctly. What is the difficulty level of this project. So far I have completely redone my breaks, replaced my governor on my trans, replaced my egr valve, and on other cars i have replaced all accesories on an engine and have more tools than you can imagine. With that vague description of my mech abilities do you think I can do it. It only seems as hard as replacing old parts with new, but then again most things on cars are never as easy as they seem. Thanks for the help guys I really want to do this soon.
 






Yup, that "center section" is referred to as the "3rd member," "pig," or "pumpkin" depending on what neck of the woods you live in...

Here is a Dana 35 TTB vs. a Dana 28 TTB 3rd member, make sure you get the right one.

D35H_D28Hsmall.jpg
 






So i found a 88 Ranger 4x4 4 cyl for sale pretty cheap. How do I know if it is Dana 28 or 35. Do I just have to measure or is there a way to tell on the truck. Thanks
 












An 88 should have a Dana 28 -- the 35 didnt appear in the Ranger scene until 2 years later.

EDIT -- what FROADER said.
 






Welcome, and if you can find the front axle assembly, I may be able to help with the rear. I have plans to swap both in my 99 Explorer to change to 3.73's. I will end up with several spare parts. I have a whole 93 rear now with LS 3.73's, and this 99 has LS 4.10's with 108k on it.

How far are you from Knoxville to pick up a whole rear? I need to install a new diff. in my spare 3.73 rear, plus brakes and weld two tabs for parking brake cables. Price some of those parts around there, I can make you a good deal. Regards,
 






Damn, that really sucks about the Rangers, cause the Ranger was wicked cheap and it would be nice to take my time pulling parts in my driveway as opposed to a junkyard. CDW thanks but I dont see myself driving to knoxville anytime soon Or i would def go to you to save me trouble, I will keep you in mind if that changes. what is a decent price for a front and real axle assemnly (the parts I need) anyway?
 






I paid $250 for my '99 3.73LS rear and $200 for the 3.73 front. 4.10's may cost a little more because they are rare but look around a little and you should be able to find a good deal somewhere.
 






I have purchased a 3.73 3rd member at a junkyard for $130 sold a drum to drum 3.73 for $250 and bought a 4.10 disc brake rear axle for $200 so I guess it depends on how hard you look. I obiviously got a better deal on my axle than the guy who bought my old one.

*if it's a you pull it they typically don't know the axle ratios or charge more for them. Also lots of them have half price days.
 






I will likely end up selling the 3.73 LS differential apart from the old 93 rear, those drum rears aren't in high demand here. I will have two sets of the 95+ disc brakes, counting the complete 99 rear. What would be low enough to make you come get this whole 4L10 rear? No hurry, ponder on it for a while.
 






So will a dana 28 not fit, or will it not be as strong? I am by no means a hardcore offroader and will only use the Navajo for fields, small trails for fishing etc so I dont need anything beefy, just something for around town.
 






The Dana 28 will not fit. You need a Dana 35.
 






thanks, finally did a little reading on therangerstation.com and figured things out. Now I just have to write the 40 people on craigslist with rangers and tell them to tell me the door code. If not, off to the junkyard I go (but I really dont like this since I have no help and its always harder when I am miles from my garage and am on a time crunch)
 






Ditto, everything here is a good 15+ miles away. With the cost of gas you spend five dollars or more for any local trip.
 



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1) Look all over for a 4cyl 4x4 Ranger with a Dana 35 TTB that might have 4.10 gears
Only 90-92s 2.3s will have full D35s, 93-97 will be a hybrid.
The Dana 28 will not fit. You need a Dana 35.
Yes it will (with the D28 steering) other than ABS stuff, shocks bolt up the same and calipers are the same, sway bars are the same. I wouldn't recommend it though unless 4wd use will be light.
 






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