Remove Replace Front Half Shafts

[EMBPilot]

As im trying to narrow down this noise/vibration im getting (thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1611461#post1611461 )
im pretty sure i ruled out the hub assemblies, and that they are oaky.

This leads me to think it may be the half shafts. Searching the forum here and reading the Factory Service CD the job looks to be a little involved. I dont object to buying extra tools (within reason) but im trying to get a grasp on what exactly this job will entail or if i should leave it to the dealer.

from the looks of things i'll need a jaw puller to push the axle IN to remove it from the hub, I'll also need a CV Joint Puller W/ Slide Hammer, in order to properly remove the shaft from the Diff housing.

has anyone tackled this job? have any insight on doing this? The hanyes is kinda fuzzy with 25 steps using random stuff, and the service CD is a little vague.

 

[410Fortune]

I could do this in one hour per side barring any problems, with regular hand tools. Most Explorer's I have done = 1 hour per side max

the puller to get the cv off the inner axle shaft is only required if they are frozen, and most times even then a pry bar will free them up (or BFH)

Its a pretty simple process, if you unbolt the upper control arm from its pivot bushings then you dont need to mess with the upper ball joints and the CV shaft will compress enough to come out of the hub assembly

You really think your vibration is from the CV's? Are they worn? Any rips in the boots?
You know you can usually rebuild them (clean and regrease them unless they are jacked up)

 

[EMBPilot]

thank you for the insight, that doesnt sound too bad, the boots are in great shape, no rips or tares. i didnt know i could regrease them. i hoping its not the transfer case, but the only way to find out is to drive around with the front drive shaft disconnected from it.

when you mention removing the upper control arm from its pivot bushings, do you recommend that instead of the Haynes way of - removing the lower control arm balljoint nut to separate the crontrol arm from the steering knuckle - ?

 

[410Fortune]

Nope just unbolt the upper control arm you dont have to mess with the ball joints

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

Hmmm I can't totally agree. I tried to regrease mine, but I couldn't get the half shafts to compress enough to pull them out of the hub hole. I unbolted the top ball joint where it connects to the spindle (I think that what it's called), and totally removed everything from the hub out. The only way I could see to get the shaft all the way out would be to remove the outer tie rod or both ball joints. I'd like to see if anyone else has tips for this as I'd still like to get mine off.

 

[410Fortune]

Ammo did you try turning the wheel for the side you were working on?

 

[ExplorerDMB]

410's got it - thats the way we do them

-Drew

 

[gijoecam]

Indeed, spin the wheel towards the side you're working on to gain some more clearance. I've yet to do it myself, but I'm keeping that one for the memory banks for when I do.

Just curious though: Why undo the whole upper control arm which generally merits an alignment when finished instead of separating the upper ball joint which goes right back the same way it came out?

Please enlighten me, o wise guys..... I mean wise ones!

-Joe

 

[410Fortune]

when you rebolt the upper control arm to the frame why would you need to re-aling?

It will retain the same camber and toe settings as you had previous

 

[gijoecam]

Isn't the upper control arm the one that uses eccentric bolt heads to set the camber? (and with the redesigned one-piece upper arm, caster too) I could be cornfused again... it's late....

 

[reserved50]

if you unbolt the upper arm from the frame and someone swapped the non adjustable washers for adjustable ones then mark them, probably will need align if you're picky

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

I didn't turn the wheel, so that's probably what the problem was. I Wouldn't remove the whole upper control arm unless you can't get the upper ball joint loose from the spindle. That was the easy part, you would need an alignment unless you're lucky enough to get it right while tightening it back up.

 

[gijoecam]

if you unbolt the upper arm from the frame and someone swapped the non adjustable washers for adjustable ones then mark them, probably will need align if you're picky

Mine came from the factory with the eccentric headed bolts in it already... that's why I was confused. I don't see how they could set the camber any other way...

-Joe

 

[reserved50]

one half of mine were camcentric and the side where the bolt goes had a fixed square washer

 

[410Fortune]

mark the eccentric cams before you unbolt

 

[Jefe]

Some pics:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53863

 

[410Fortune]

yup like that

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

I still say, unless your upper ball joint is frozen in the spindle don't bother unbolting the whole upper arm IMO.