Replaced radiator and water pump; now not starting. :(

[drdoom]

Have you tried a different key?

 

[Poormanz28]

well, you are the guy that drives the vehicle... did you ever see it on????

that problem needs to be addressed then... you MUST get a check engine light with your key on state... it has to stay lit "forever" when you key is left on. Once you get a light on condition, you can then monitor it to see if the system is detecting "pulsing" from your sensor... hopefully. I would go back and check ALL fuses.

guess I'll throw out the other "thing"... you wouldn't happen to have anti-theft system in the vehicle?

LOL; I honestly don't recall seeing the "check engine" light with the key in the "on" position. Light has never been "on" while the car is running. Checked the TPS sensor and get 5 v at the plug so I know the PCM is sending at least by the "not start procedure" posted here. The crank sensor is working by my meter from what I can tell as well as the harness to the sensor. Also; no after market alarm or other stuff on the truck. The crazy thing is the car ran great before I changed out the water pump and radiator.

 

[Poormanz28]

Have you tried a different key?

I have two other keys and tried them both.

 

[Poormanz28]

I checked all the fuses. All good.

 

[Poormanz28]

Check engine bulb was burnt out. I changed all the dash bulbs this morning. Now I get check engine light with key in the "on" position. Still can't get it to start.

 

[Turdle]

Well, you fiddled with the crank sensor and it fired up. Then it didn't. I still think you have a broken -or corroded wire between crank sensor and PCM. Since the crank sensor triggers the spark, I think this is your problem area.
That harness had to be moved to get the water pump out. Go back, and re think what you did. Did you stretch that harness? Is it possible it got pinched when you re tightened the bolts?

 

[Axial32]

I had .4 and mine wouldn't start, soon as I got it over 1, it started no problem

 

[Axial32]

It is this sensor right here that you are talking about... correct???

Because this was the EXACT sensor that gave me problems for a month straight of cranking with no start.

 

[koda2000]

after some 50+ years of working on cars, i've discovered that 99.9% of the time the last thing you touched is the last thing you f'd up. that being said, there's something going on with your crank sensor or its wiring. the odds of it being something else are .1%

 

[Poormanz28]

Well, you fiddled with the crank sensor and it fired up. Then it didn't. I still think you have a broken -or corroded wire between crank sensor and PCM. Since the crank sensor triggers the spark, I think this is your problem area.
That harness had to be moved to get the water pump out. Go back, and re think what you did. Did you stretch that harness? Is it possible it got pinched when you re tightened the bolts?

I am getting proper voltage at the crank sensor plug.

 

[Poormanz28]

I had .4 and mine wouldn't start, soon as I got it over 1, it started no problem

Got down to 0.08 still no fire. and that is with a new sensor.

 

[Poormanz28]

It is this sensor right here that you are talking about... correct???

Because this was the EXACT sensor that gave me problems for a month straight of cranking with no start.

yup.

 

[JCat]

Un-do and reattach the wiring harness's that feeds the 2 coils.
.
Mine came loose once, vehicle would not start.
.

 

[budwich]

good on the light... now I assume that now it never goes out during the crank sequence... right? This is typically a sign that the pcm is NOT getting "pulsing" from the sensor... which you kind of figured :-( but at least now you have something to "monitor" as you try things. I second the checks on your connectors in the area /route

 

[Axial32]

You have the sensor as close as possible to the crank???

 

[Poormanz28]

Got it running. :

Took your suggestions here and went up the harness starting from the crank sensor plug. About a foot up the harness two wires had lost their insulation and were touching. This explains moving the harness during the water pump change was just enough to have the wires touch inside the harness. Man, I am lucky this didn't leave me stranded on the road.

Well, now that I have the truck running and the bulbs in the dash changed out, guess what? It threw a code. Several in fact.

P1401
P0802
P0001

I plan on driving 1000 miles the next three days. Do you think any of theses codes needs to be address before then??

Also, I now have no power windows and no interior lighting. Which is new. The lights on the door mirrors and the headlights to not stay on for a few mins after I turn the car off like they did before as well.

To add to this; My key or door chime is going off about every second in a series of 5 beeps. I think I will loss my mind hearing this on the long trip.

Any suggestion about any of these problems would be great. I want to thank everyone who posted. This forum has been very helpful.

JD

 

[Turdle]

I'd disconnect the battery and see if they come back. While the battery is disconnected look for blown fuses --re connect the battery and see what happens. Heck it's worth a shot. The codes could be old ones, lets start fresh.

 

[Poormanz28]

I'd disconnect the battery and see if they come back. While the battery is disconnected look for blown fuses --re connect the battery and see what happens. Heck it's worth a shot. The codes could be old ones, lets start fresh.

Interior lights and power windows now work. Lose fuse.

The series of five beeps only last for about a minute. Thank goodness.

Cleared the codes with a scanner and they came back. . I would think they are old too. The abs and check engine light are both on. Most likely why they were burnt out.

 

[Poormanz28]

I read here that with a air bag light out you get these annoying beeps. I pull that bulb when I changed all the other bulbs today because I was tired of look at it. Guess it has to go back in.

 

[Axial32]

Glad to hear you got it up and running again.