Replacing Exhaust Manifold Gaskets 1999 Ford Explorer XLT AWD 5.0 | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Replacing Exhaust Manifold Gaskets 1999 Ford Explorer XLT AWD 5.0

Remember to be careful in there. Lots of sharp edges and stuff to lose "Knuckle Meat" on.

Safety Glasses are a must so you don't lose a eye if something decides to fly off.
 



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You'll never be able to break it loose with a crowsfoot. You need to get it really hot, and probably need to do several cycles of heat before it will give in. Try not to twist something else apart.

If you really get stuck, and have an extra EGR tube available, you could cut the tube off near the ends and put a socket on the nut to break it loose.
 






Funny? I was worried about the manifold studs and never thought about the egr line giving me so much trouble. I pick up the crowsfoot today at 3pm, I only have a small propane bottle torch to heat the pipe with and I am not sure if it will get it hot enough or not to work? I might buy a 1 1/16" deep well socket while I am there to just in case I have to cut the egr tube and use the socket on the end nuts.
 






ok, I got the egr line off :biggthump, I had to take the coolant reservoir, the alternator and the air intake off to have enough room to break loose the bottom nut with the crowsfoot. Then I removed the egr valve from the back of the intake since I could not get the top nut to break loose. I am so lucky I have a garage because it was bitterly cold out today, it's not heated but it's better than nothing.

Tomorrow I will tackle the manifold bolts......
 






The manifold bolts came right off without any issue!!!!!:dpchug:
I can't tell you how happy I am about that.
I did have an issue with one spark plug wire though, the metal clip came off when I pulled the wire off. I don't see any way to fix it? :dunno:

Tomorrow I will work on the manifold to exhaust down pipe bolts, they seem like they are going to be a nightmare as it doesn't appear there is any access to them. the outer one I could cut:sawzall: I guess and the inner one seems like I might be able to get a socket on it with about 2 feet of extensions and a universal / swivel ?
 






Fixed the plug wire, I unbent the little tabs on the aluminum heat shield covering the boot then pulled the other part of the heat shield off the boot. I then used a little soapy water and brute force to push the wire deeper in to the boot until it came out the end. So I un-crimped and the metal clip slid it on to the wire and re-crimped it then slid the boot back down and in to place. I took the shield and pushed it back on the end of the boot and then replaced the top part of the sheild and bent the tabs back over to secure it. Saved me $90+ bucks!!

Now on to the flange bolts.....................................

Question: Whats tools did you use to undo the two exhaust flange bolts?
 






OK, the bolt nearest the transmission is out. I used many 1/2" extensions, 15mm deep well 1/2" socket, a universal /swivel, 1/2" drive ratchet and a pipe slipped over the handle for leverage to break it loose and remove it. Weaving the extensions up into that area was the hardest part. I placed the universal just after the first long extension, seemed to work the best there. And no heat on the bolt, just Aerokroil.

Now for the outer one, the one you can easily see from the tire well area. It seems like it will be more difficult to remove. It is right above the frame, so no getting to it from below with any tools and from the wheel well side the plastic fender is just far enough back it doesn't let you get to it there either? I am off to see what I can do, I'll post when I get it off and how I got it.
 






I got in there by gently bending the fender with a breaker bar, but the head of the bolt snapped off, the end of the bolt sticking out of the manifold looks like it has been welded to the manifold on the side where the bolt sticks out toward the manifold, I know it has to just be corrosion but i really does look like its welded!

Oh well, I tried putting it in my vice and heating it up with a bottle torch and turning what's left of it with vice grips but finally just gave up.

I do have a new manifold and I am just going to replace the whole thing. I did lose track of which holes the studs went in though if anyone knows I could use that info.
 






DONE!!! The New manifold went in really easily I also went ahead and changed the oil while I was down there. I coated all the bolts in copper anti-seize sanded the surface of the head clean, it was in real good shape. I feel much better doing the job myself, I know it was done right.

I want to thank each and everyone of you who made this possible and much easier than it would have been without this site, you guys are great!!
 






Sorry to reply late.

Doing a major electrical power upgrade project for Dade County Sewer and Water in Miami. After 14 hours a day there is no time to browse internet.

Glad to hear that.
 






Sounds like a tough job, but money must be good! Hope you are getting some rest for those long hours. Thank you for your help!

I lost the serpentine belt today, started the truck and noticed the battery light on, went to the front of the truck and noticed it was unusually quiet, so I turned the truck off and looked under the hood and saw the belt was gone, it had broken and was laying right under the truck. So had to get a ride to the parts house to get a new one, bought the Gates one for $32. I also noticed when installing the new belt that the fan blade has some pretty serious cracks on the circular part.
 






Fan blade cracks around the center are very common if not "normal". There is a thread about this in the sticky section. The cracks bothered me so I replaced all of mine with metal fans. You can get them from junkyard 97-98 5.0s.
 






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