Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

Well it's starting to get cool in the mornings so I better get going on the heater part of this build.
I installed a new heater core about 2 months ago, but did not have a heater motor and fan. The other one took a dump. So off to the junk yards I went and found one.
This engine runs on the cool side and so far have no over heating issues. Now this might change on a long trail ride.
With the engine around 170 the air coming out of the vents was a little over 140. Now with the much smaller passenger area since I chopped the top and closed off that area directly behind seats, this truck will roast you out of there.
I have also noticed on cool mornings with a lot of condensation on windshield, that the air that now comes out of the cowl vents due to me cutting out that part of the firewall really helps in drying the windshield. Frost should be no problem no more .

I rushed thru this snorkel and now have to do twice. Trashy job. :thumbdwn: . Just don't like doing work that I'm capable of doing better. Me bad LOL.
I've already turned the snout coming out of the air cleaner around and pointing back. This was done about a month ago. BTW, that all aluminum air cleaner was on this 302 in the donor car which was an 81 Merc. Cougar.

I saved this stock part that was on that air cleaner. All I had to do was to flip it around and stick the opposite end on the cleaner, cut to length and was lucky that the 3" PVC stuck in the other end perfect after the soft rubber boot conformed to the round pipe .

Test fitting.

Ready for installation.

Much better.
Now that it is tagged I can fix it up better without feeling rushed Now that's just one more thing to scratch off punch list.

 

[410Fortune]

ahhhhhhhhh the punch list wanna see mine?

 

[rookieshooter]

ahhhhhhhhh the punch list wanna see mine?

No thank you

When I finally had the Couger towed away after salvaging engine and other things I kept the owners manual that was in glove compartment. Thought that it might come in handy one day. Well it did. Since I'm using that 302 and oil pan that was in that Couger. I was wondering just how much oil did they recommend? I did not have the factory did stick but used an after market one made by LoKar which is one of those flexibel ones.

So there it is, 4 qts. Mine with the relocated filter has 5.

 

[410Fortune]

?????????????????????

what oil pan is this? The dual sump/mustang style?????

I have that pan and all info says I need 5 quarts, with my oil filter re-location I run 5.5.....I have yet to get the correct dipstick for my BII

 

[rookieshooter]

?????????????????????

what oil pan is this? The dual sump/mustang style?????

I have that pan and all info says I need 5 quarts, with my oil filter re-location I run 5.5.....I have yet to get the correct dipstick for my BII

It's the dual sump that came on that 81 Couger. It has a drain plug in front and one in back as expected. I called Lokar and told them I had the dual sump that came on that car and that the dipstick housing screwed into the pan, not block. Then they sent me the correct flexible stick. It bolts onto the header flange.

 

[410Fortune]

the pan is threaded?

My dual sump pan is from a Mustang, i suspect they are the exact same, however my dipstick is not threaded.

My information says this pan takes 5 quarts, hahahaha I need a dipstick right now I have the explorer tube and stick and they are far from accurate with this pan

 

[rookieshooter]

Yes the pan is threaded for the dipstick housing assembly. It's the tube that's threaded that the dipstick slides into.

 

[rookieshooter]

Need some insulation and some kind of headliner for inside of roof. That black roof gets so hot you could fry an egg on it. All the headliner and insulation was taken out long ago. It wont have any kind of fabric stuff for headliner, but something that will clean up easily. Getting ready to glue first piece of insulation to roof. I'll put the reflective part toward roof.

The first two pieces of insulation are glued in place. I may install metal or plastic headliner between those two metal roof supports. Just clean them up and paint. Kinda gives it a tuff look Those supports have a flange on both sides to fasten headliner. This way the headliner will be flat up against the insulation so it can't fall off if the glue ever fails. You can see the flange near the cab light.

 

[rookieshooter]

Also came up with a name for this project truck after kicking a few names around.
In honor of Fords 1964 Thunderbolt Fairlane I have decided on the name. . . "B2 Thunderbolt".
The way they built this unique car like the use of aluminum and plexiglass to lighten it up, stuffing a modified V8 and other mods reminds me of my truck.
The Hot Rod side of me is also incorporated in this build. So now it is more a 3 dimensional ride. DD/hot rod/trail rig. Just driving down the road can be fun. Tromp on the peddle and hear that guttural sound of that V8 pumping out those ponies and slamming that Hurst ratchet shifter and being slammed back in the seat as the B&M shift kit does it's thing is totally awesome.

Here's a link to Fords Thunderbolt Fairlane.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/define-1964-ford-thunderbolt.htm

Maybe I'm just suffering from a serious case of Mid Life Crises
If that's the case, I've had it since I've been 16

 

[rookieshooter]

Cutting template for sheet metal headliner out of thin plastic. Actually it is the back side of a sign that was in an auto parts store.

Checking for fit before transferring to sheet metal.

There's the passenger side done in sheet metal. Won't have to worry about this headliner coming down. Used pop-rivets. The pop-rivets go thru the flange on the roof supports. They do not penetrate roof.

I like the looks of the exposed roof supports.
Nothing left but to paint and put those wires over on driver side in a protective cover and secure to body right below headliner.

 

[rookieshooter]

Headliner done. Those two metal supports are stock exposed B2 supports that are now exposed. The metal headliner is up against 1/2" insulation sandwiched between those two supports. Less fabric to clean
And wouldn't you know the last pop rivet I put in that headliner went right into the overhead light wires But the auxiarllary fuse box did do it's thing that's mounted in the rear battery box.

Was going to junk yard to get some kind of inside door handle for these sanitized doors. When getting some tools to take with me I noticed a roll of nylon strapping . Just cut to size, heat up awl and melt hole thru fabric and bolt in the right spot.

I like the way it goes with the built theme of truck.

 

[danism]

I know how light the back of the BII is.....now you have a V8 and part of the rear body is missing!! You need to pour some concrete in your rear tube bumpers to give you some weight back there! You definately need some flexability in your suspension, but not have alot of body roll...It is definately a roll bar/cage candidate if you were going to do alot of technical trails!..I guess its up to your pocket book and what you are going to use the BII for. "mainly in town,light offroad and trail driving or serious articulation on the trail" I would stay with the leafs and work on moving some weight to the back....!!!

I no that a 5.0 is only 100 pounds heavier than ranger 2.3, the 2.9 has to be heavier tha the 2.3. and with all that aluminum I think the only thing that well make it a little squirely is all that power.

 

[410Fortune]

danism, IMO that advice is very good...the BII needs some weight in the back, especially behind the rear axle and down low...that is for any type of serious rock crawling or trail use.

The factory weight up high (Picture windows, lift gate, cargo roof) sucks, but even with it removed the BII could still use some weight behind the rear axle to make the suspension work a little harder and to keep the rear planted on the ground...the BII is wheel base challenged...I will be changing all this on my truck when I build my full cage and body diet...rear axle is going back 2-3" and all the weight I can add back there down low will really help (spare tire, tools, spare parts, etc)

 

[rookieshooter]

Ok guys, finally moved in to my new house with the much needed garage .
There will be more weight in the back as soon as I recover from dropping all kinds of money in this house. For starters . . . The same tire and rim combo for a spare mounted in the middle/rear of bed with a slight angle. Also recovery and some tools in that lower compartment above battery housing. Then one of those heavy Hi-Lift jacks mounted on top of rear tube bumper. And if I can afford it, a full tank of gas Ha Ha. So far this has been one blast of a beast to drive and wheel. Remember this is not a hard core rock or trail rig. The only thing I really need to do is to re-route the driver side exhaust a little higher over the rear axel. On a hard stuff the exhust on that side hits the truss and has put a little dent in the pipe. No biggie to fix.

It's hunting season now and this truck really strutts it's stuff on the trails.

 

[rookieshooter]

This is early in the build. But here is where I would like to have the spare as described in the above post. Since this is a grocery getter also I still want to have the option of having the rear tail gate on or off depending on circumstances. Don't need my milk and cookies flying out on the highway LOL.

I have noticed that this truck will really handle off camber hills. Something that I really wanted in my hunting buggy. A lot of work went into relocating and removing weight to achieve this.

May just put some weight in that rear tube bumper.

 

[410Fortune]

how about a bed extender on top of that tail gate? then when you go wheeling pack all your tools, spares, etc back there....

 

[rookieshooter]

That is one good idea. Going to check out the cost of one for a Ranger. I don't exactly have a lot of room back there anyway. Especially once the spare is in.

 

[410Fortune]

buy one? hehehehe after all this I figured you would build one

 

[rookieshooter]

buy one? hehehehe after all this I figured you would build one

Just priced one at $268. Might just have to take you up on that. Plus the way the back is made compared to a Ranger, I would have to modify it anyway. Could use some small diameter exhaust pipe and make a custom fit. Have 2 or 3 parallel bars with 90 bends at each end and then notch some vertical supports.

Here's an older pic that shows those supports coming out of the side of the bed. This is where the hatch back closed against. This is where the bed extender would have to be modified. Of course the tail gate would be on when using the bed extender.

 

[rookieshooter]

Now here's on of the main reasons I build this truck. Gets me way back in the woods.
Doing a little bow hunting today. That's my bow up against the front fender.

Also sold my 700 Polaris. . .this is way more fun, not mentioning, heat, more payload and can drive on street LOL.

After the hunt it's time for this truck to pay me back with some work. Like bringing home some firewood after each hunt. Might just keep some wood back there for more traction during snow. It handles the load with ease and those outboard shocks really keep the leaning down while driving down some of these grapevine roads.