Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

Thanks for your comments.

Was thinking about mounting my new HiLift on the rear bumper, but after talking to some serious off roaders and seeing pics of their rides stuck up to and sometimes over the rear bumper. I decided to mount it along the diagonal support of the cage. For now it's just leaning against it. Need to make some brackets up.
I also don't want to lay it down on that horizontal shock support because that is where I'm going to mount the spare. Speaking of spare, just got off phone to 4 Wheel parts Co. and I should have my spare tire in about 6 working days . The rim I allready have.

 

[rookieshooter]

Just one other thing. Don't know if this amounts to anything, but I did mount it on right side to offset some of the drivers weight. Most of the time I'm by myself just thought that it would help the springs and shocks out. I dunno.

 

[rookieshooter]

This is the way I secured the jack. I let the bottom rest up against the cage bracket. And then bent up a piece of metal the same angle as the base of the jack. Then welded the other end to cage support.
Just need to drill hole thru one of those existing holes in base of jack for pad lock or Lynch pin. If I use a Lynch pin I'll have one of those bicycle locks on it further up.

The top was just a bolt welded to cage that passed thru one of those existing holes in jack. But before placing jack over bolt I added one of those Poly body mounts between them. Then just used washer and nut.
The nut when turned really secures that jack against the poly mount with a vengeance. Thinking about drilling thru end of bolt and adding a Lynch pin. This would keep that bolt from backing off.

 

[FROADER]

That looks like it works perfectly. Nice job!

 

[CBII]

Only comment on the top mount of the hi-lift...why not use a wing nut?

Then you don't have to bust out the tools when you need it.

Just a thought to ponder.

 

[rookieshooter]

Only comment on the top mount of the hi-lift...why not use a wing nut?

Then you don't have to bust out the tools when you need it.

Just a thought to ponder.

I may just do that The way I have it now I used a nut size that is on one side of my star tire wrench. The star wrench I will hopefully mount on my pre runner style spare tire assembly.
If I can find a wing nut that size or even weld on some tabs to that nut I'll try that idea.

Thanks for the comments and ideas guys.

 

[rookieshooter]

Only comment on the top mount of the hi-lift...why not use a wing nut?

Then you don't have to bust out the tools when you need it.

Just a thought to ponder.

So much for finding a wing nut that matches that bolt. Not that I looked that hard in the first place
Brake out the 3/16" flat stock, high speed grinder with cut-off and grinding wheel and one welder.

Welded the nut to the top and that should do it. Are you happy now CB11? Thanks for the tip.

Added this fastener that I got from Tractor Supply to the bottom.

Fed X just delivered my spare today. Already have the American rim.

Now to order that Universal Pre Runner style spare tire holder that Warrior makes.

http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_info.php/cPath/1454_130_3622/products_id/27392

 

[CBII]

There you go...that's way better.

 

[rookieshooter]

Decided on making my own spare tire bracket. Going to utilize the horizontal outboard shock tube that connected to cage. Found some 3/16 x 2" flat stock that I think will work.
The piece above will be on back side of spare.

Here is that same piece cut to size, drilled, and then two wheel studs pressed in. Then I bolted it to rim and tire. The spare was then laid down at correct place that I wanted it mounted.

The tire in now laying flat up against the horizontal cage support. Now with the tire support bracket bolted to back side. All I have to do is to slide this pre notched flat stock down to that round horizontal tube that the outboard shocks are connected to. You can see the red tubing in the bottom of hole. The scribe a line, cut and then weld to tubing and to the flat stock on backside of spare. This is why I bolted it to tire first. I wanted the length of these pieces to be just right so that the tire actually sets on the tubing,with the one side of tire that angles down to rest on bed of truck. So now the tire is supported on each side of tire, the middle and the lower edge. The new bracket that I made only has a fraction of the weight.

Here it is. That's about as simple as one can get.
I put an angle piece of metal the butts up against the bottom edge of tire where it meets the bed.

Now just to get some lug nuts. I also want to be able to mount the star wrench so that is lays on top of tire, but screws down into that bracket.

Hard to tell from this pic, but the tire is angled up towards the cab.

 

[general x]

OMFG! It's done! I've been following this thread since somewhere around page 31 but I guess my subscription wore out cuz I just rechecked the thread and suddenly your driving the beast. Just wanted to say I love it! Every last bit of the rig has purpose, and everything is protected with durable paint! No rust! The details such a P-clamps for braided hoses and all that really adds to the build as well. The thing I love most about the build is the effort put in, so many fabbed parts and neat ideas that I myself would have shrugged off as too much of a pain to make and just bought somthing or changed my design to work around whatever problem was in the way. *sighs* Now i've gotta start putting in more effort and more importantly *Patience* so maybe one day i'll build a rig half as nice as yours

Keep up the good work!

 

[rookieshooter]

Thanks for the kind words general x.

It was easier then I thought to mount the star wrench. Just welded on a 3/8" extension to center of star wrench. Then slipped on a 13/16" socket which got welded to the other end of extension. Then welded a lug nut inside of socket. All that was left to do was to screw down on the stud coming up through rim.
.

 

[rookieshooter]

Now to do some wheelin. Those Pro Comp mud terrain really fly over that mud.

BTW, that's my 14 year old daughter wheelin it.

 

[rookieshooter]

Wouldn't you know. The only piece of gas line that I have that is not stainless braided line or steel tubing, lets go. This happened when playing in the mud in the above pics.

I have some of that braided line that you can use standard hose clamps on. I put the all rubber one on trying to eliminate the vibration from the Holley Blue pump that you see. Oh well, rather have a little more vibration then to have that happen again.

That large see thru line is one of many grounds that I have on the truck.

 

[rookieshooter]

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v81/honda2nr4life/swamp spider/?action=view&current=MVI_0081.flv

Just a vid of some playing around.

Found a new use for those quick detachable fenders other then working on Coilovers or engine.
Great for cleaning all the mud from coilovers and side of engine when I'm at the do it yourself car wash.

That's better looking.

 

[rookieshooter]

Hey all you guys that gave me ideas along the way, and or watched as I built this truck. I'm over on Petersons 4Wheel site and running in the Ride of the month contest. Vote if you like. Thanks

http://rideofthemonth.4wheeloffroad.com/gallery/11/1984/ford/bronco/175371.html

 

[lifeguard379]

voted.

 

[rookieshooter]

Just ordered these waterproof seat covers from Summit. They are on sale and are cheaper then JC Whitneys sale price. Those cloth buckets I have suck when they get muddy from muddy trail rides with no doors.



http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400103+304152+115&autoview=sku

 

[410Fortune]

awesome man simply awesome
So cool to se3e you actually running it around, a well built monster!

I am so chopping up my BII body.....its time

 

[rookieshooter]

Thank for inspiring me so much,be sure to post plenty of pics.

 

[rookieshooter]

I have been having some shifting problems lately. Seems that I would have to readjust the shifting cable about once a week. Well, I found out that the cable that came with the Hurst shifter started slipping out of the brass/copper fitting that the gray colored cable was pressed into. This is not all Hursts fault. I need to add a proportioning valve to the brake lines. What's happening is that when I push in the rear brake line lock which acts as my emergency brake, there is not enough pressure to hold the rear tires from rotating. With an adjustable proportioning valve I'll be able to send more holding power to the brake shoes. The problem starts when I'm parked on a hill and there is so much force on the shifting cable to get out of park. So now once I park on a hill and the rear brakes are holding, it won't be so hard on the shifting cable to get it out of park. Hope I make sense.

But I did contact Hurst about it and they said to


try the heavier B&M shifting cable. So I ordered one. It's the red cable. You can see that it is heavier. Hurst told me that it would be a direct bolt in replacement. Wrong. The end that goes to the shifter has a hole that slips over a stud and then a cotter key goes thru that. Well, the hole is larger then the stud making for sloppy shifts that sometimes goes into gear and sometimes not. So what I did was to cut off the end of the Hurst cable that has right size hole and weld onto B&M cable. Now it's a correct fit.

Here is the new B&M cable with the Hurst end welded on and cotter key holding it in place.