56explorer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 14, 2013
- Messages
- 182
- Reaction score
- 5
- City, State
- Arkansas
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 56 F100 Explorer (96) XLT
I shared this article on another page and thought it belonged in this category as well. I'm working on putting a 1956 F100 on top of a Ford Explorer and I ran into a nice little CHEAP secret online after searching my house for an hour looking for vinegar. Instead of that, for just $1.25, you could have an endless rust-removing party that can keep you looking for more things to watch rust dissolve away. I bet this is the same crap they sell for $50 re-labeled elsewhere as a rust remover. so here it is ladies and gentlemen!!!
Friday the 13th..... we'll call it simply one CRAZY day. My neighbor got TP'd earlier tonight. I was outside working on a friend's brakes and didn't hear a thing. It reminded me to talk about something you use in the bathroom to clean toilets that I have been dying to share with everyone. If you have a bottle of "The Works" bathroom cleaner, then you have all that you need (besides water) to REMOVE RUST!!! It has Hydrochloric Acid (Hydrogen Chloride) that starts to work when diluted with water. The chemical reaction eats away the old caked on rust, paint, and sometimes the metal itself if left in the solution too long or too strong. Depending on the thickness and metal type, you can usually soak most car parts in a solution of 1 part "The Works" and 10 parts water. There is probably a better recipe out there, but just be careful with small parts like steel wire, rivets, and thin pieces. Here is a pic of the 56's rear view mirror chrome surround after soaking in a mixture for just a couple of hours. Notice that there is no magic with the pits in the chrome, but it made it shine like it hasn't in probably 20 years!
Then I tried out some bolts, screws, and other misc.
When I saw the results, I decided to do hinges, springs, and other stuff. What I noticed pretty quickly was that I could safely leave the door hinges and other heavy metals in the solution overnight (24 hours) then take a plastic-bristled brush and simply give a quick scrub, soak for another day and VOILA!!!! Down to bare metal!!!
Here's a before/after. Yes, I did spray primer on the after before I thought of taking the picture.
"Johnny Fresh" was not a good choice for rust removal, but it sure was minty!!!
Here's a bare metal shot. Think of all the elbow grease and scraped knuckles you'd have trying to get down into those crevices!!! Or how about the amount of time, money and patience of trying to blast each little piece. You'd ruin 5 pairs of blasting cabinet gloves trying to hold each small piece and that's not even counting the times your compressor has to run, the amount of energy that takes. I think a 32 oz bottle is about $1.25. I only had one bottle that I was able to re-dip items over an over again in and it just kept working! Now if I just had a pool my cab would fit in.....
Impressed yet???????
All of this done in a matter of a few days (as if I was in some sort of rush or anything) and cost me a measly BUCK AND A QUARTER (plus primer)
The BEST part of ALL, I think, is how it doesn't react with the plastic or wood like blasting usually does.
Now, I better get to watching my yard for TP thugs. Have a great night!
Friday the 13th..... we'll call it simply one CRAZY day. My neighbor got TP'd earlier tonight. I was outside working on a friend's brakes and didn't hear a thing. It reminded me to talk about something you use in the bathroom to clean toilets that I have been dying to share with everyone. If you have a bottle of "The Works" bathroom cleaner, then you have all that you need (besides water) to REMOVE RUST!!! It has Hydrochloric Acid (Hydrogen Chloride) that starts to work when diluted with water. The chemical reaction eats away the old caked on rust, paint, and sometimes the metal itself if left in the solution too long or too strong. Depending on the thickness and metal type, you can usually soak most car parts in a solution of 1 part "The Works" and 10 parts water. There is probably a better recipe out there, but just be careful with small parts like steel wire, rivets, and thin pieces. Here is a pic of the 56's rear view mirror chrome surround after soaking in a mixture for just a couple of hours. Notice that there is no magic with the pits in the chrome, but it made it shine like it hasn't in probably 20 years!
Then I tried out some bolts, screws, and other misc.
When I saw the results, I decided to do hinges, springs, and other stuff. What I noticed pretty quickly was that I could safely leave the door hinges and other heavy metals in the solution overnight (24 hours) then take a plastic-bristled brush and simply give a quick scrub, soak for another day and VOILA!!!! Down to bare metal!!!
Here's a before/after. Yes, I did spray primer on the after before I thought of taking the picture.
"Johnny Fresh" was not a good choice for rust removal, but it sure was minty!!!
Here's a bare metal shot. Think of all the elbow grease and scraped knuckles you'd have trying to get down into those crevices!!! Or how about the amount of time, money and patience of trying to blast each little piece. You'd ruin 5 pairs of blasting cabinet gloves trying to hold each small piece and that's not even counting the times your compressor has to run, the amount of energy that takes. I think a 32 oz bottle is about $1.25. I only had one bottle that I was able to re-dip items over an over again in and it just kept working! Now if I just had a pool my cab would fit in.....
Impressed yet???????
All of this done in a matter of a few days (as if I was in some sort of rush or anything) and cost me a measly BUCK AND A QUARTER (plus primer)
The BEST part of ALL, I think, is how it doesn't react with the plastic or wood like blasting usually does.
Now, I better get to watching my yard for TP thugs. Have a great night!
