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So What Will Happen If I Take Off All FOUR Cats?




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This is apples and oranges. Your first gen, non OBDII v6 is completely different than the truck in question.

Yeah I know that. The reason I was able to cut my cats is because it just had 2 cats and the oxygen sensors are before the cats and it has no effect on my computer. I was just telling him that it is his decision and telling him what to do if he wants to go through with it. I hate that Ford went to this 4 cat system because it was the same way on my dad's F-150 and I always thought it was stupid. In my neck of the woods I see guys running without cats all the time and their motors seem to be running just fine. As a matter of fact I see more guys come into the store with check engine lights for problems with their oxygen sensors that still are stock than I do with people running dummies and no cats. Just a thought.
 






even on the 331 blown 5.0 Im doing I just added a cat back, not worth messing with the cats unless its offroad only, Im using a MAC 3" catback and its good enough (kind of a tow truck sound).
For what I said earlier you need to make a 100% custom exhaust, you can get MIL Eliminators if you need them from ebay etc. A X-pipe will give more a of NASCAR high pitched scream/buzz? when revved, and a H-pipe more of the 5.0 Mustang burble/rumble.

I also have never seen anyone with a 5.0 burn exhaust valves because of lack of backpressure so i wouldnt worry about that, sure you'll lose most of your bottom end power. Have seen exhaust valves on an adjustable valvetrain burn up by setting them up too tight and not seating fully to transfer heat.
 






Just get a CD of what you want the truck to sound like and play it really loud.


Don't remove the cats.
 






I cannot intelligently speak on what someone would do or not do, It depends on the shop.

Personnally, if you brought it into my shop I would not, simply because I know that the truck had them to begin with, and thats how the Federal Law reads: "All Original Emission Control Equipment" However, most shops will probably replace your primaries if you want them to.

I live NorthWest of Hunstville, about 8 miles from TN.


OK, well i might have to go to the shop that originally went to that did my current exhaust set-up. The owner took my secondary cats off for $40 a piece and im sure he will do the same for my primarys. Then i'll just pay him to weld in a bung and then run the pipes out the back with my x-pipe and mufflers welded in the system. I already have purchased two Mac Flowpath mufflers but i am thinking about going with the Flowmaster 40s 2 chamber. Thats another topic so NVM.

My uncle live in Madison if you know where that is. Your about a 5-6hr drive from me and the old X just told me thats too far for her.

Thanks again,
Colton
 






This is apples and oranges. Your first gen, non OBDII v6 is completely different than the truck in question.
That is EXACTLY to the letter what I was going to say--
wow
 






there is a spot where the cross over is optimal, one way is calculations. The other way is draw a chalk line on each pipe from the collector back and let the vehicle warm up then floor it on a straight stretch for about 15 seconds, where the lines melt (are the hottest) is the optimal point for the crossover, never tried it but heard it works
 






You might not need MIL eliminators. If you use a handheld tuner, you should be able to turn off the rear O2 sensors with that.
 






OK, well i might have to go to the shop that originally went to that did my current exhaust set-up. The owner took my secondary cats off for $40 a piece and im sure he will do the same for my primarys. Then i'll just pay him to weld in a bung and then run the pipes out the back with my x-pipe and mufflers welded in the system. I already have purchased two Mac Flowpath mufflers but i am thinking about going with the Flowmaster 40s 2 chamber. Thats another topic so NVM.

My uncle live in Madison if you know where that is. Your about a 5-6hr drive from me and the old X just told me thats too far for her.

Thanks again,
Colton

Madison is about 15 minutes from Athens. I live about 30 min away from it.

I figured it would be too far.... Good luck at the shop.
 






there is a spot where the cross over is optimal, one way is calculations. The other way is draw a chalk line on each pipe from the collector back and let the vehicle warm up then floor it on a straight stretch for about 15 seconds, where the lines melt (are the hottest) is the optimal point for the crossover, never tried it but heard it works

Thats cool, Im going to try it. I need to put a crossover on mine too....
 






there is a spot where the cross over is optimal, one way is calculations. The other way is draw a chalk line on each pipe from the collector back and let the vehicle warm up then floor it on a straight stretch for about 15 seconds, where the lines melt (are the hottest) is the optimal point for the crossover, never tried it but heard it works

Really? Do you remember where you got this information? This is something i want to look into. Does chalk melt?....see if you can find more info on all that, it would help me out alot.

Thanks,
Colton
 






scary i actually found a published source for it, Tip 541 in the "1001 High performance Tech Tips" book. I dont remember what people actually used, but Im guessing at some point the line will dissapear or burn up? Maybe even a line from high heat paint?
 






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