SOHC '99 starting problems..help please

[EX-files]

Hello folks,

Registered member but forgot old email address.

Anyways, I was hoping someone can assist me.

1999 Explorer XLT 2WD, SOHC 6

About a month ago I was having No issues whatsoever. One evening I was topping off fluids, started her up for about 15 minutes. Shut her off.

About 2 hours later, returned to start her and she cranked but would not catch..got to the point the battery was losing juice due to too much cranking, so I left her alone and called a mobile mechanic to check her out the following Monday (she dies Saturday afternoon).

He diagnosed a fuel pump. Can hear it run with key, etc. Checked the pressure, was low. Replaced fuel filter, still nothing. Changed out fuel pump, still nothing.

Discovered leaky fuel damper on fuel rail. Ordered the part.

Starts only when you floor the throttle pedal to let in more air..takes a few cranks...starts up. Put in gear it dies. Feather the throttle while putting in gear..moves.

Replaced the IAC valve, started okay one time, then back to the throttle assist. Replaced TPS just in case..seems harder to start. Replaced PCV valve, was oily and also cleaned MAF sensor, throttle body housing, intake etc. Reset PCM by disconnecting negative cable and jumper that to the positive cable to clear all stored settings.

Started her up afterwards...still had to floor the throttle..and had to keep it up 3000 rpm....let off she slowly lost revs..more steady throttle to keep revs up ...let off she dies.

Tried to start up again (still with foot on throttle) she dies immediately.

Any help???

 

[EX-files]

any one??

 

[2000StreetRod]

too rich?

When you depress the accelerator to the floor to start the engine the PCM assumes the engine is flooded and disables the fuel injectors. So your work around indicates the engine is running rich.

Did you replace the leaking fuel pressure damper?

The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor or associated wiring could be defective and indicating to the PCM that the engine is cold when it isn't.

Did you check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs)?

 

[EX-files]

Damper was replaced..no difference after that. No engine codes..thought about the coolant sensor but throwing bucks around....

 

[EX-files]

IF I get her running,for example, I go to gas station or wherever, and keep it running,,,I move to DR she dies..than same routine with the pedal.

 

[2000StreetRod]

test first

Damper was replaced..no difference after that. No engine codes..thought about the coolant sensor but throwing bucks around....

I'm an advocate of testing before replacing. Many of the latest electronic "gadgets" have the capability to read PCM parameters (PIDs) via the OBD-II bus. That is the easiest way to test electronic components (TPS, MAF sensor, ECT sensor, etc.) to determine if they are faulty. The gadgets can also read fuel trims that reveal if the PCM is compensating for a lean or rich engine condition.

You didn't respond to my question about DTCs. Have you checked to see if any are present?

Was the fuel pressure measured after the fuel pump was replaced?

Is it possible you have a tank of bad gas?

 

[EX-files]

No codes. Had it scanned. Fuel pressure after the pump and damper change was normal.

 

[EX-files]

Fuel is fresh.

 

[2000StreetRod]

ignition wirng

Confirm that all ignition wiring is correct and that there is spark at each plug.

Make sure that wiring for cylinders 5 & 6 and not reversed.

 

[EX-files]

Cables routed correctly. Good spark.

I am considering re-installing the old pieces. At least I could get it started, with the pedal down. I was able to do that just once yesterday (with the new parts IAC and TPS), after idling for a while won't restart even with the pedal movement. Never throws codes though.

 

[2000StreetRod]

CKP sensor?

Try cleaning the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector by disconnecting and reconnecting a few times. It is near the timing pointer for the harmonic balancer - next to the left red arrow in the photo below.

It is exposed to a lot of water and road grime. Easiest access is probably from below the vehicle instead of above.

Make sure there are no obstructions (mouse nest, air filter caked with sand) in the air intake path.

Remove spark plugs and check for fouling or excess gap. Check compression for at least one cylinder in each bank.

 

[EX-files]

Yes, I will do all that. I will report afterwards...Noon and Sunday some things have to do before I tackle the car. Sure hope I can at least get it started, even if it's with pedal movement, need to get back and forth from work.

 

[EX-files]

baby steps.....

Intake was previously checked..air filter clean and intake tube clean...vacuum lines between MAF and throttle body tight.

Replaced new TPS with previous.....started by foot to the floor and had to hold throttle at 2000 rpm (hoping to recharge battery).

Previously I could smell fuel under the hood. No longer present (I did clean the throttle body and replaced PVC valve)

Plugs looked good... I will tackle the CKP sensor shortly

 

[EX-files]

Okay crawled under and can barely reach the connector to the CKP sensor..didn't have the leverage to disconnect it..large hands...from above may be possible with disconnecting belt but I don't have long enough breaker bar to release the idler.

 

[EX-files]

Tried to start...foot on pedal...had to rev 2000 rpm. Did that for few minutes......let go died..no start. Oil spitting from exhaust.

 

[2000StreetRod]

. . . Plugs looked good . . .
Tried to start...foot on pedal...had to rev 2000 rpm. Did that for few minutes......let go died..no start. Oil spitting from exhaust.

How can the plugs look good and there is oil in the exhaust?

 

[EX-files]

Plugs all looked good. Had an issue on start up AFTER I checked the plugs. Was small indicators just under the exhaust....

 

[2000StreetRod]

leaking valve cover?

It sounds like you're describing a leaking valve cover that shows oil under the exhaust manifold. I won't be much help without accurate information.

Is the engine quiet when it runs or does it sound like marbles are rattling around inside the block? Is the oil newly leaking on both banks or just one? Check for a crack or hole in the valve cover.

 

[EX-files]

WHEN the motor runs..it is normal quiet.. no noises

 

[EX-files]

The sudden oil deposit which was not there before I think was because I replaced the PCV.