SOHC V6 Supercharger

[2000StreetRod]

blower pulley?

"Q: I have a 01 Ford Explorer Sport with a 4.0 SOHC v6. Ok my question is, will this supercharger fit under the hood with out any hood modifications? (The Stock Hood) Nov-18-05

A: If you measure from the center of the pulley torward the firewall 8 inches. Then lay a straight edge across the fender with hood open. If you have 6 inches or more to the top of the lower part of the valve cover, you should have clearance to close stock hood." . . .

Thanks for taking the time to look that up. I read many of the questions & answers but missed that one and Ronald was a little vague when I asked him. If the measurement instructions are referring to the blower pulley then it assumes the blower has been purchased and at least positioned on top of the discharge plenum. I was hoping to find out in advance.

I've been searching the forum for the past few hours and learned that very few have documented installing the Banshee kit on an Explorer. I read thru kabukie's thread: Supercharged 02 Sport and he did not mention any hood clearance problems. However, his engine configuration is more like the Ranger (oil filler cap on passenger side) than mine (oil filler cap on driver side). On his it looks like the intake tube is higher than the blower pulley. I guess I could always revert to a smaller pulley (higher boost) rather than cut out some of the hood reinforcement.

 

[2000StreetRod]

hood mod required

I asked 4pointslow who started out with an Banshee/M90 on his 1998 Sport. He said with the stock pulley he had to remove some of the underside of the hood to get clearance. No modification was needed to the exterior. He eventually installed a M112 with a 2.7 inch pulley. I suspect that even if I went to a smaller than stock pulley I would still have to remove something. I guess I can live with that. The markings on the hood insulation in the photos below identify the probable area of hood to pulley interference.

 

[2000StreetRod]

vacuum/boost gauge

In searching for an AutoMeter electrical vacuum/boost gauge I learned that the indicator is driven by a stepper motor. A fast response vacuum gauge is helpful in diagnosing engine problems and I suspect a stepper motor would have slower response than a mechanical needle. I ordered a Z Series 2601 mechanical gauge as shown below.

I already have a dash mount pod and plan to mount the pod/gauge just to the right of the dash vent near the A pillar pod mounted air/fuel ratio gauge.

It should not block driving visibility in that location but still be easily read.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you mean that you have the dash mount already that locates the gauge to the left of the emergency flasher switch? I have that one too and it lays well on top of the existing column trim piece.

 

[phix-]

CDW, maybe it was your thread. How much did you have to trim to get it to rotate up and down with the steering column?

 

[2000StreetRod]

not there

Do you mean that you have the dash mount already that locates the gauge to the left of the emergency flasher switch? I have that one too and it lays well on top of the existing column trim piece.

No Don, it will go where shown below.

It will probably be a pain to put it there and connect the illumination wiring and the vacuum/boost tube. I need to pull the dash apart anyway to fix the gear selection indicator and replace the air bag readiness indicator. I'm tired of listening to five sets of five chimes every thirty minutes.

 

[CDW6212R]

I mentioned the column part because it's an easy addition and looks good. I plan to have three gauges also, but we could always use more.

I didn't alter that column piece phix, rotate it etc, I only set in in place and verified that it will fit well. The 2 1/16" gauge fits it snugly, and I think it was about $30, from Summit maybe.

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel injector selection?

The Banshee kit does not include increased flow fuel injectors. The stock 19 lb/hr injectors may be adequate for low boost and mid to high range engine rpm with restricted intake and exhaust. However, some users have experienced lean codes with stock intake, exhaust and injectors. Lean conditions on a boosted engine can quickly damage plugs, valves and pistons. My stock spare injectors are shown below.

They are top feed with a short end to end length (48.8 mm inside O ring to O ring) and the EV1 electrical connector. I was considering Bosch Green Giant injectors with a 42 lb/hr rating but they are 3 inches (74 mm) O ring to O ring.

My stock fuel rails appear to be end mounted.

The Banshee kit includes a replacement fuel rail that has two mounting brackets on each rail between the ends.

I guess I could add spacers under the brackets to accommodate the longer injectors. I want to get it right the first time since the blower has to be removed to replace injectors. How do other members install longer than stock injectors?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Replacement fuel pump

I suspect that the original fuel pump is still installed in my Sport. The pressure is still good and I've had no intermittent issues but at 13 years age it may be approaching its end of life. Adding a supercharger is a good excuse to replace my old pump with a new high flow pump and "sock". I plan to purchase an Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump (pn 11142) which is rated for 340 liters/hr at 40 psi.

It should be reliable for any of my planned and unplanned fuel flow requirements.

 

[CDW6212R]

Find new or rebuilt and flow matched injectors, in the OEM length. They should be very easy to find, used at about $10-$15 each shipped. Figure your planned extra power(%), and multiply that by the 19lbs stock rating. I'll bet 24's may work, but 30's if the boost will ever get to 10psi or so.

The stock fuel pump is in the 80liter per hour range, the most common aftermarket size is 255ltr. Find the quietest 255ltr pump that you can, that will do fine. Also replace the rubber hoses at the pump, the two pieces in the tank do get brittle and crack. I had a lean code only at high speed WOT, a little leak there was hurting volume slightly.

 

[phix-]

TREperformance pumps are great for their price. Also on rangerpowersports.com their is a set of 42lb green tops.

 

[2000StreetRod]

injectors & fuel rails

According to this very helpful Electronic Fuel Injector (EFI) Flow Data Table my stock 19 lb/hr injectors flow 18.25 lb/hr at 43.5 psi. With my custom tune they are capable of maintaining a 12.8:1 air fuel ratio all the way to the engine rev limit. Reducing my exhaust restrictions could increase my max airflow at engine rev limit by 5%. I've read that tuners like richer mixtures with forced induction. Maybe 11.5:1 for estimating purposes - an increase of 11%. My stock max rwhp was 174. The max rwhp for a stock ranger with the Banshee kit was 216. I think I should size the injectors for a max of 275 (58% increase). So multiplying the increase factors:

18.25 * 1.05 * 1.11 * 1.58 = 33.6 lb/hr

jd4242 is using 36 lb/hr injectors on his internally modified OHV V6 with an M90 blower. 4pointslow initially used 36 lb/hr injectors on his M90 blown SOHC V6 and eventually switched to 60 lb/hr when he upgraded to an M112. jah81592 upgraded to 55 lb/hr on his turbocharged 1998 SOHC V6. Jakee went to 42 lb/hr on his remote turbocharged SOHC V6.

There are numerous "Green Giant" style injectors but I think the Bosch ones might be the best choice. As the max flow increases the injector open and close response times become more critical for steady idle and fuel economy. Despite the high flow rate, they are linear and controllable at low pulse widths. OEM injectors typically have better response times than aftermarket injectors. The Bosch Green Giant injectors (pn 280155968) flow 42.8 lb/hr at 43.5 psi. They are readily available and come with the EV1 electrical connector. I'm trying to find their specified response times. They are used in Volvo turbocharged engines.

I asked Ronald Caster about fuel rail imposed injector requirements. He informed me that his fuel rail mounting brackets are designed for the longer injectors and spacers are inserted if the stock injectors are used. So that is no longer an issue.

I have been very pleased with Ronald's responses to my numerous inquiries about his kit. Being a retired engineer I like to plan in detail (overthink) and not being familiar with forced induction upgrades have lots of learning to do. Ronald has sold enough kits to have encountered (and solved) numerous installation issues on Rangers. Apparently, there have not been many kits installed on 2nd generation Explorers. I enjoy working with someone who shares his knowledge and experience.

 

[CDW6212R]

From those hp estimates(now 175hp going to 275hp max), 36lbs would be more than enough, 30's on the limit.

You do want the best injectors for PCM control, idle quality etc, well done for digging into that.

 

[2000StreetRod]

BSFC & injectors

This informative and concise article on fuel injector selection demonstrates using Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) to size injectors. According to Stan Weiss' table in general the BSFC for a supercharged engine with no intercooling is .57. An 80% duty cycle is usually used for street. So the peak horsepower per 42 lb/hr injector is:

58.9 * 6 injectors = 353 bhp total * .85 = 300 rwhp

Injector flow increases as fuel pressure (across the injector) increases. My Sport fuel pressure is about 65 psi at idle. As boost increases the pressure across the injector decreases. I want a fuel pump that can maintain 65 psi at max boost and engine rev limit. Most fuel pumps seem to be flow rated at 40 or 43.5 psi. As fuel pressure increases fuel pump flow decreases as shown in this fuel pump comparison test. The Aeromotive 11142 flow decreased 20% (500 #/hr to 410 #/hr) when the pressure increased from 40 psi to 65 psi. It appears to be one of the best performance pumps on the market and should be extremely reliable at the lower demands of my mildly boosted engine. It costs twice as much as the Wallbro but is worth it to me if I never have to drop the fuel tank again after its installed.

 

[2000StreetRod]

IAC valve Ranger vs Explorer

My Explorer has the IAC valve mounted on the upper intake manifold. There's an assembly (flexible elbow and rigid tube) that connects the IAC valve inlet port to the main intake port downstream of the MAF sensor.

The Ranger does not have the inlet assembly. Instead, the throttle body has a bypass port that provides inlet air to the IAC valve. On the Banshee kit the IAC valve mounts on a throttle body spacer that attaches to the intake plenum.

The brass elbow on the spacer connects to the PCV valve. I want to retain my Ford racing prototype 75mm polished throttle body that has no bypass port.

The photo below shows what the IAC valve bolts to on the Explorer intake manifold.

The recessed chamber in the intake manifold when mated to the IAC valve base constitute a rather elaborate bypass. I may be able to modify the Banshee spacer to provide an equivalent inlet port and bypass but I'll proably have to make my own spacer.
Since the intake plenum inlet port and spacer opening are only 65mm in diameter, I need a 75mm to 65mm adpater. My current one made from one of my wife's dishwasher safe cutting boards is shown below.

If I have to make my own spacer it will have a 75mm inlet and 65mm outlet.
I'm hoping the bolt pattern for the Ranger and Explorer throttle bodies are the same. Does anyone know if the Ranger and Explorer SOHC V6 throttle bodies have the same bolt pattern?

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a lot of nice special parts for the project.

I know that the V6's both have a different TB pattern than the V8 which is the common Mustang size. I'd choose to go with the Mustang TB pattern, if the project will already require anything special to be done with the throttle cable or bracket. The Mustang TB would need a new arm welded to the existing one, unless a Mustang type of bracket was used in some way.

I say that because the Mustang TB's are the most abundant and cheapest to buy, $200 or so can get you the best new polished TB, from Accufab, a 75mm size available in three versions(one uses the sweet v-band type clamp for the hose that cannot blow off with boost). Those cost more of course but they are worth it for the features and quality. You shouldn't need that level of clamping for the TB hose for the boost expected, but I mention it as an option.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Cruise control issues

I learned yesterday that the Banshee kit does not allow for cruise control because of inadequate clearance between the hood and the linkage. The photo below shows the throttle/cruise control linkage on my 75 mm throttle body which is very similar to the stock 65 mm throttle body.

The cables are attached above the axis of the throttle plate. On the Ranger throttle body the linkage is on the opposite side but the cables still attach above the throttle plate axis. The Banshee kit reorients the throttle body so the linkage is on the top adjacent to the hood. The mount for the cruise control is cut off so it won't interfere with the hood. I'm opposed to losing my cruise control nor do I wan't to modify the hood exterior.

I'm evaluating a possible alternative to allow retention of the Explorer stock throttle body orientation. Instead of attaching the spacer to the intake plenum I could attach a plenum to hose adapter similar to a MAF sensor adapter.

To that I could attach a silicone hose 45 degree elbow.

The 45 degree elbow would increase the distance between the M90 housing and the throttle body. I need about 4.25 inches for the cruise control.
Then another hose to plate adapter attached to a custom spacer with the correct bolt pattern for the 75 mm throttle body. Then the throttle body attached to a 4 to 3 inch diameter silicone reducer for the 90 mm MAF sensor.

I would have to fabricate a support bracket for the throttle body to make it rigid. I have to determine if the intake assembly would be short enough to fit in the length between the inlet plenum and the air filter enclosure (which must be modified for the change in diameter and angle of the 90 mm MAF sensor.

The throttle cable will have to be to lengthened. The A/C rigid tube would have to be rerouted. The upper radiator hose support bracket would have to be modified. There may not be enough room for a right angle rubber elbow attached to the valve cover port.

It would be a lot of work, costly and may not be worth all that just for an increase in driving pleasure.

 

[2000StreetRod]

blower to intake tube separation

I found the photo below posted by 4pointslow that shows the narrow distance between the M90 body and the main intake tube.

Another photo by 4pointslow gives an idea of how much room there is between the plenum inlet and the air filter enclosure.

I'm beginning to think there's enough room for the 90 mm MAF sensor attached to a modified air filter enclosure, followed by a 4 inch to 3 inch silicone reducer, followed by the 75 mm throttle body, followed by a metal plate to cylinder adapter, followed by a 3 inch 45 degree silicone elbow, followed by a metal cylinder to plate adapter, followed by a 75 mm to 65 mm spacer attached to the plenum inlet. In the Banshee kit the IAC valve mounts on the spacer and there is a port for the PCV tube. I could put a T on the spacer port and connect the PCV hose to one T inlet and the IAC valve outlet to the other T inlet. The IAC valve could be mounted at any convenient location with its inlet hose connected to a port in the 4 to 3 inch silicone reducer. Initially I can use a cone filter (like I'm currently using) until I have time to modify the upper part of the air filter enclosure.

I guess the next step is to go to an auto A/C shop and see about getting the A/C condenser to drier tube rerouted. The compressor has been rapidly cycling since I purchased my Sport even after I added refrigerant. I suspect one of the pressure sensors is defective.

EDIT: Instead of using a 75 mm to 65 mm spacer at the plenum inlet, I could use a 65 mm spacer and a 3 inch to 65 mm 45 degree reducer silicone elbow.

 

[rpcaster]

The dyno chart posted on eBay with the Banshee kit shows a max torque of only 250 lb-ft.
View attachment 73472
At 2500 rpm the torque is only about 80 lb-ft which is about the same as my engine before the intake mod. Even at 3100 rpm the torque is only 200 lb-ft which is about 20 lb-ft more than my chart. A smaller blower pulley would increase the boost at the lower end but also raise the boost at mid range increasing engine stress. I need to learn more about blowers. Maybe the MP62 would be a better match than the MP90 for my purpose.

With regard to this "dyno chart":
This was a dyno tune on the proto-type of my daily driver (prior) to production. The tune was to correct a lean condition at high rpm's as evidenced on a prior dyno run. The IAT sensor was still at the maf location so computer program did corrections to eleviate the lean condition. The only request to the tech was to eleviate any lean conditions and improve shift points on my 5r55e transmission.

 

[CDW6212R]

I found the photo below posted by 4pointslow that shows the narrow distance between the M90 body and the main intake tube.
View attachment 73817
Another photo by 4pointslow gives an idea of how much room there is between the plenum inlet and the air filter enclosure.
View attachment 73816
I'm beginning to think there's enough room for the 90 mm MAF sensor attached to a modified air filter enclosure, followed by a 4 inch to 3 inch silicone reducer, followed by the 75 mm throttle body, followed by a metal plate to cylinder adapter, followed by a 3 inch 45 degree silicone elbow, followed by a metal cylinder to plate adapter, followed by a 75 mm to 65 mm spacer attached to the plenum inlet. In the Banshee kit the IAC valve mounts on the spacer and there is a port for the PCV tube. I could put a T on the spacer port and connect the PCV hose to one T inlet and the IAC valve outlet to the other T inlet. The IAC valve could be mounted at any convenient location with its inlet hose connected to a port in the 4 to 3 inch silicone reducer. Initially I can use a cone filter (like I'm currently using) until I have time to modify the upper part of the air filter enclosure.
View attachment 73818

I guess the next step is to go to an auto A/C shop and see about getting the A/C condenser to drier tube rerouted. The compressor has been rapidly cycling since I purchased my Sport even after I added refrigerant. I suspect one of the pressure sensors is defective.

EDIT: Instead of using a 75 mm to 65 mm spacer at the plenum inlet, I could use a 65 mm spacer and a 3 inch to 65 mm 45 degree reducer silicone elbow.

Have you considered the various EGR spacers that are used for many engines, the Fox Mustang the most of course? Those are most likely the wrong bolt pattern, but the right spacer made like those could solve the TB and cruise control issue. If you can find one or have one made, use that to place the CC and throttle lever where you want it. The bolt pattern would be the biggest factor, deciding on which to use. On the Fox Mustangs the throttle cable attaches to that spacer also.