SOHC V6 Supercharger

The purpose of this thread is to discuss the design and possible development and installation of a supercharger for my 2000 Sport SOHC V6 engine. I have no first hand experience with forced induction systems and want to learn from forum members that have them on their vehicles. While I don't plan to implement a turbocharger system, there are many problems common to all types of forced induction systems.

The easiest and least expensive solution would be to modify a Ranger SOHC V6 Banshee kit and purchase a used Thunderbird supercoupe positive displacement blower. However, the kit makes no provisions for an aftercooler which I think is beneficial even with only 5 psi of boost.

The Explorer Express supercharger kit includes a quality looking manifold but one is very difficult to obtain.

Once again, there are no provisions for an aftercooler.

I suspect the best solution for me would be a centrifugal supercharger with a water aftercooler. With my oil coolers and remote filters I have very little room in front of the radiator for an intercooler. I am interested in a boost in the range of 5 to 8 psi - enough for a significant performance increase but not so much to adversely impact reliability and require beefing up of engine internals or the transmission/torque converter.

Procharger sells a kit for the 2005 - 2010 Mustang V6.

But the Mustang configuration is opposit to the Explorer - intake on left and battery on right. Also, there is a lot more room between the engine front and the radiator rear on the Mustang than on the Explorer.


Vortech also makes a kit for the Mustang but there are the same problems.

The logical location for a centrifugal supercharger is the same side as the air filter box and intake manifold inlet port. Unfortunately, that is where the alternator is located. I'm investigating the possibility of replacing the belt driven power steering pump with an electric motor driven pump and then relocating the alternator to the old power steering pump location.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Dyno base line

With regard to this "dyno chart":
This was a dyno tune on the proto-type of my daily driver (prior) to production. The tune was to correct a lean condition at high rpm's as evidenced on a prior dyno run. The IAT sensor was still at the maf location so computer program did corrections to eleviate the lean condition. The only request to the tech was to eleviate any lean conditions and improve shift points on my 5r55e transmission.

Thanks for the clarification Ronald. Actually the 250 lb-ft max rwtq for your prototype with probably only 5 psi boost favors pretty well with the Mustang X-Charger 284 lb-ft max rwtq with 11.5 psi boost. I plan to perform dyno testing after my exhaust upgrade to establish a performance base line. After your kit is installed and the tune completed I'll do more dyno testing to determine the performance improvement. Then I'll complete the intercooler installation followed by more tuning and testing. The intercooler should allow more ignition timing advance resulting in more power. When I install your kit I'll replace the knock sensor again (this time with an OEM part). I've been plagued with knock sensor retard since purchasing my Sport.

 

[2000StreetRod]

universal MAF sensor adapter

Ronald Caster sent me a photo of the throttle body spacer with dimensions.

Obviously, the plenum inlet has the same bolt spacing.

I found a universal MAF sensor to 3 inch tube adapter in my storage room left over from my 55 mm MAF sensor experimenting.

I can elongate two of the holes to match the Ranger throttle body bolt pattern. Then I'll make another 75 mm to 65 mm adapter with the Ranger throttle body bolt pattern

and mount it between the plenum inlet and the MAF sensor adapter. For the typical silicone 45 degree elbow the leg length is only 4 inches which may not be enough to align the MAF sensor with the corner of the air filter enclosure. If I can't find a longer leg one I'll add a section of metal tube and a silicone coupler. If the metal tube is copper I can drill it for smaller copper tubing and solder them together for inlet ports.

 

[Dono]

If there's a will, there's a way.

You will find solutions to all issues as they come up, no question about that.

 

[2000StreetRod]

pulley size?

When 4pointslow installed his M90 with the stock pulley and stock exhaust his max boost was 5.5 psi. After upgrading his exhaust (Flowmaster muffler with single 3 inch diameter tailpipe) his boost dropped to 4 psi. He eventually went to the smallest pulley available without grinding the blower snout (2.7 inch) which resulted in 7 psi boost. I read somewhere that smaller pulleys don't always increase boost because intake temperatures increase, detonation occurs which is detected by the knock sensor, and the PCM retards the ignition timing. My target boost is 8 psi - a compromise between performance increase and reliability decrease. My upgraded exhaust system should be comparable to 4pointslow's initial upgrade (he later added JBA headers). I'll eventually have a functional intercooler to reduce IAT and detonation/knock sensor retard. The blower pulley has to be pulled off and pressed on and I don't have a 5 ton press. A special puller/installer costs around $120 and reduces the chance of pulley and blower damage.

It should be easier to swap the pulley with the blower out of the vehicle vs installed. A smaller pulley costs around $85. I'm inclined to purchase the 2.7 inch pulley and puller/installer and swap the pulley as soon as I receive the blower. That would give me the potential to better evaluate the intercooler and I wouldn't have to remove as much metal from the underside of the hood for clearance.

Edit: According to Pulley Boys the 2.8 inch is the smallest pulley that doesn't require snout machining. 4pointslow wasn't sure if he used a 2.7 or 2.8 inch on his M90 but did not have to machine the snout. He's now using a 2.7 inch Qwickchange pulley on his M112. I'll probably purchase the 2.8 inch.

 

[jd4242]

When 4pointslow installed his M90 with the stock pulley and stock exhaust his max boost was 5.5 psi. After upgrading his exhaust (Flowmaster muffler with single 3 inch diameter tailpipe) his boost dropped to 4 psi. He eventually went to the smallest pulley available without grinding the blower snout (2.7 inch) which resulted in 7 psi boost. I read somewhere that smaller pulleys don't always increase boost because intake temperatures increase, detonation occurs which is detected by the knock sensor, and the PCM retards the ignition timing. My target boost is 8 psi - a compromise between performance increase and reliability decrease. My upgraded exhaust system should be comparable to 4pointslow's initial upgrade (he later added JBA headers). I'll eventually have a functional intercooler to reduce IAT and detonation/knock sensor retard. The blower pulley has to be pulled off and pressed on and I don't have a 5 ton press. A special puller/installer costs around $120 and reduces the chance of pulley and blower damage.
View attachment 73840
It should be easier to swap the pulley with the blower out of the vehicle vs installed. A smaller pulley costs around $85. I'm inclined to purchase the 2.7 inch pulley and puller/installer and swap the pulley as soon as I receive the blower. That would give me the potential to better evaluate the intercooler and I wouldn't have to remove as much metal from the underside of the hood for clearance.

I produce 9.8 lbs with a 2.7 and believe don is right around that also with a 2.7.both of our blowers have been ported/polished and have coating on the blades.i have the gm m90 tho.I know I have very little restriction in my motor and setup.

 

[Dono]

I hope you don't have detonation issues like I'm having with my ohv. Even at very low boost when my transmission rolls in to OD I will detonate. I'm hoping your knock sensor will take care of those moments that are very difficult to tune out.
Your also correct that high iats will result in timing being pulled out because of the knocking. This won't change boost levels, but will make your motor much more inefficient (as you already know).
I think that knock sensors a wonderful thing. I wish my ohv had one.

No question, intercooling will give you max gains and efficiencies. We all know the down side. Hood clearance.

 

[2000StreetRod]

intercooler & hood clearance

. . . No question, intercooling will give you max gains and efficiencies. We all know the down side. Hood clearance.

Ronald Caster is building my intercooler into the manifold assembly so it won't affect hood clearance. My problem will be finding space for the heat exchanger in front of the radiator since I have two auxiliary ATF coolers, engine oil cooler with thermostat, and remote filters for engine oil and ATF.

I might have to convert one of the auxiliary ATF coolers to IC coolant.

 

[Dono]

This is awesome!

I can see with your attention to detail you will easily exceed your goal of 250 lbs torque in lower rpm's. Sounds like traction will be an issue.

 

[2000StreetRod]

alternator to hood clearance

Yesterday I detected a rattle under the hood with the transmission in Drive and the engine idling. Today I removed the main intake assembly and determined the pulley bearing on the serpentine belt tensioner is worn. Its only been a couple of weeks since I replaced the serpentine belt because of a squeek I heard periodically. Anyway, while the intake assembly was out of the way I did some non-precise clearance testing. I found a roll of double sided tape that was 4.125 inches in diameter and positioned it with duct tape above the alternator main terminal boot.

It was at about the angle I anticipate for my supercharger planned alternate main intake assembly. It would just barely stay in position and slip down if I touched it. I was able to close and open the hood without the tape roll moving so I'm assuming there is adequate clearance because at that point the intake will have been reduced from 4 to 3 inches in diameter. It is obvious from the photo that the refrigerant pipe that connects the accumulator to the A/C compressor is definitely in the way. Before starting the supercharger installation I will go to an auto A/C shop and have them evacuate the refrigerant and insert a section of pipe that goes down before going across.

The next photo shows that the hose/pipe/hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the upper radiator port is in the way in the area above the valve cover.

There's a bracket that keeps it in position that I'll either alter, replace or delete. I may have to replace the round pipe section with an oval pipe section to gain clearance.

There's a chance that the stock throttle cable will be long enough but I won't know until I get all of the parts and "mock up" the configuration. It shouldn't be too difficult to find an appropriate universal throttle cable. I want one with an adjustable length (threaded with nuts) housing to get the correct amount of play. The stock adjustable cruise control cable will be too long but probaby usable until I find a shorter one.

 

[CDW6212R]

The AC lines can be bent a small amount to move them slightly. Maybe you can arrange the radiator hose with it's metal VC(valve cover) pipe to be located down a bit, and bend the stock AC line to go lower through there.

You might do well to find a spare radiator VC pipe, and alter that. Maybe you can give that a lower profile or reroute it, have it lengthened etc, and come out lower next to the VC.

 

[2000StreetRod]

bending the refrigerant pipe

The AC lines can be bent a small amount to move them slightly. Maybe you can arrange the radiator hose with it's metal VC(valve cover) pipe to be located down a bit, and bend the stock AC line to go lower through there.

I thought about having the pipe bent. Especially since the lower end transitions to a flexible hose (you can see the transition in the 1st photo of my previous post). I'll ask the A/C specialist for advice. I want to make sure that what I end up with will not require evacuating the A/C system for future activities (engine pull, valve cover removal, replacing relays in the aux relay box, etc.).

 

[2000StreetRod]

PCV elbow

While browsing in AutoZone I found a possible elbow for the valve cover port. It was inexpensive so I bought it and a new serpentine belt tensioner pulley. Its made by Dorman.

The long leg has a larger diameter port than the short leg and is just the correct diameter and length for the valve cover port. The smaller diameter port correctly fits a 1/2 diameter brass hose barb fitting. I only had a "T" fitting to test with.

. . . You might do well to find a spare radiator VC pipe, and alter that. Maybe you can give that a lower profile or reroute it, have it lengthened etc, and come out lower next to the VC.

The bracket that is welded to the short section of pipe for the upper radiator hose is clearly visible. The bracket also provides a mount for the knock sensor connector. I may try to purchase a used one online rather than visit a salvage yard which ends up taking a lot of time.

 

[CDW6212R]

I did bend my AC line slightly a few years back when I installed the Volant air cleaner. It can be done by hand for a slight bend, how much can be done before crimping it I don't know.

I recall that steel radiator pipe when I did my SOHC in 2005. That is a smart design to do that, it made the radiator hoses needed simple to design. I don't know how mush height you need to gain there, but surely something can be done with the pipe there to crush it and/or lengthen it to move the radiator hose and AC line. You'll get it done.

 

[Bronco2]

I use a 70mm tb of from a 4.6 Mustang grinded the inlet conical to match the 65mm inlet
Using the EE xcharger set for mustang

All sitting in a 90b2 with 308DIN HP

 

[2000StreetRod]

EE xcharger

I use a 70mm tb of from a 4.6 Mustang grinded the inlet conical to match the 65mm inlet
Using the EE xcharger set for mustang
All sitting in a 90b2 with 308DIN HP

Very nice installation! I notice that you have the extra idler pulley to get more wrap around the blower pulley and a snout support. I'm probably going to order the double pulley bracket since I'll be using a 2.8 inch blower pulley.

 

[2000StreetRod]

looking plausible

I used my main intake on a first mockup and its all starting to look plausible.

I'll need an extension and coupler after the reducer to get the throttle body aft of the alternator.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Intercooler pump location?

There's not much room available for an intercooler pump. There's a little bit of room forward and below the air filter enclosure.

I need to find the dimensions of the Bosch pump. I'd probably have to do some cutting for inlet/outlet port hoses. Another possibility is forward and below the battery tray but I'd like to keep that space reserved for a possible (but unlikely) electric power steering pump.

Probably the easiest solution is where the radiator and window wash reservoirs are.

I could purchase narrow replacements making room for the intercooler pump and reservoir.

 

[CDW6212R]

If you do relocate the wiper reservoir, you might try something I thought of ages ago.

The wiper pump motor is special in wiring etc, to pump both to the front and back. It may be possible to utilize a 91-94 rear reservoir, with the late model pump and wiring, to feed both front and back wipers. I had my old spare 93 reservoir, but it got tossed years ago.

That would remove one item from the engine bay.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Bosch intercooler pump specs

Thanks to a recent link posted by jd4242 I now have the Bosch intercooler pump specifications: Part number 0 392 022 002

The pump body is about 3.66 inches in diameter where the impeller is and about 6 inches long not including the centrally located inlet tube (1.57 inches) or the electrical connector on the opposite end (0.67 inches). The outlet tube extends 3.25 inches from the axis of the impeller.

Edit: The serpentine belt tensioner pulley is installed and everything is put back together - no rattle at engine idle in Park or Drive.

 

[2000StreetRod]

rear washer reservoir

. . . The wiper pump motor is special in wiring etc, to pump both to the front and back. It may be possible to utilize a 91-94 rear reservoir, with the late model pump and wiring, to feed both front and back wipers. . . . That would remove one item from the engine bay.

That's a clever idea Don and thanks for mentioning it. I searched the forum and learned that the rear reservoir was deleted with the 1998 model. Apparently it was located forward of the driver side tail light. I'll do more research. The first generation reservoir included a pump.