Solid Axle Swap - truck is in the shop

[tiessen]

I've got the instructions from KTRanger. They are pretty good. I made some modifications to them for a 'better' fit. I will post the instructions soon with KTRanger's permission and my changes. I'll write up the swap and give it to Rick. The shop that swapped it for me has some digital pics and I'll take a bunch. I'll have some 4xing pics after Sunday. I'm going out with a friend who has a digital camera. Be patient, it's all coming. So far, I think the swap has been a great success. It actually drives better than before!

Cheers

Dale

 

[tiessen]

Crap, one last time...

 

[tiessen]

Now that I finally got it...

I'll have some up close pics soon, as well as pics during the swap. They is definitely more droop with the new setup. I've seen locked Jeeps with 35's have to winch up the one obstacle that I went up and down with ease.

Cheers

Dale

 

[Mat R]

tiessen,

So your are giving rick an article? I don't suppose I could get you to also E-mail it to me at matr@rcia.com? That are I could just sit and ask you the whole slew of questions I have

I'm glad that I'm not the only one that can only do an "economical" solid axle swap.

So are you keeping your truck at 5.5" of lift, or is it more than that? If so, did you just get new leafs?

Thank,
Mat

 

[Rick]

Excellant job! It looks great, I hope you can make it out to T-haven or Moab so we can check it out.

What size tires do you have on there now? They look skinny in the photos. Oh, and where were the photos taken?

 

[tiessen]

Matt, I'll send Rick an article in the next couple of weeks. In the mean time, fire away with q's if you like. I'd be happy to answer anything I can.

I'm running about 6" of lift with James Duff 3.5" EB coils. This is enuf lift for me. My new axle is about 1" further forward so I have lots of clearance. Currently I'm running 33x10.5's but next spring I may step up a size or 2. But I really like my AT's, they're great for all around use, especially in the snow up here.

I'm trying to plan for Moab next year. In the mean time, I'll beat my truck on some tough trails up here. The pics were taken at Hut Lakes in Squamish, British Columbia. I'm never sure how my truck makes it up the trail. As I said, I've never seen another unlocks vehicle make it. Here a couple snaps of the other vehicle that made it on Sunday...LWB Sami with custom rear 3 link coils, 33" muds, detroits front and rear...

 

[Rick]

Forget the sami, let's see more photos of your front end

 

[Campbell]

how do you have 6" of lift with only 3.5" coils. You must have some serious spacers above or below those coils. I really like this set up. I had considered upgrading to a dana 44 ttb, but if this is as 'economical' as you say, I might be copying your design. Thanks.
Ryan

 

[tiessen]

6" of lift from 3.5" Duff Early Bronco Coils. The coils are progressive rate, free length of 22" and in truck height of about 15.5" (which is about the same as my 6" Superlift coils).

I'll have some more shots of my Exploder asap. As for an economical swap, all things are relative. Some of my costs include:

Parts-
1979 Ford Bronco RC Dana 44 with radius arms, brackets and steering linkage - $450
New 5 on 5.5" rims - $250
Dutchman custom rear axles - $450
4.56 gears front and rear - $650
Axle rebuild kits front and rear - $300
Duff coils - $250
Front shocks - $100
+ u-joints, bearing, brake pads, etc for front axle

Labor -
Shorten axle housing - $100
Shorten R inner axle shaft - $100
Gear installs - $625
Re and re axles - $1175

As I said, economical compared to what? All said and done, I think it is a way better swap than a Dana 44 TTB.

Cheers
Dale

 

[Rick]

I agree that a solid 44 is a better swap than a TTB 44. The stuff sure does add up quick... There really wasn't too big of a difference between your costs and my costs. Of course I made it worse by adding the 'glass front end and new tires at the same time, oh and the new front ARB also... and the paint job... It sure adds up, but now I'm sure you feel like I do, like you have a completely new truck!

 

[Campbell]

thanks for the advise guys
ryan

 

[Mat R]

Tiessen,

Did you have to do anything custom as far as the steering linkage goes? Is it mounted very far down in relation to the axle? Do you have anything to protect the linkage from stray rocks?

I'm starting to formulate my own axle swap, and so far I think I am going to go with a leaf front end as opposed to coil spring. Using leafs instead of coils will allow me to do the work myself without as much fabbing that coils would require. I'm confident I can get all the parts pretty easy, I just need to find the time when I can take my truck out of commission while I do the install. So far the only problem I can think of is how the leaf spring Dana44s have the steering linkage right in front of the axle. Supposedly you can do a flip that puts it all on top of the leaf spring, but I have yet to see something like this.

Rick,
You're right. When you do such drastic changes its like you are getting a new truck. The mindset I like is instead of thinking I'm paying $2000 to modify my truck, I'm getting a new one for real cheap! Now if I can just convince my girlfriend that I truly do need 37" tires when I done witht he swap, I be good to go!

Mat

 

[tiessen]

I seen a couple of leaf setups and in my opinion, you'd be better to stick with the coils. Fabbing leaf mounts can't be any easier. The custom work for my swap was:

1. coil buckets had to be "made" to fit the larger spring - 5" instead of 4.75".
2. Engine crossmember
3. Tranny crossmember - for radius arm mounts

The steering is stock setup, tie rod ends on the bottom of the spindle. I've heard you can raise the tie rod by using Chevy spindles and some custom setup?! My steering is OK for now. I shortened the tie rod on the driver side and rethreaded it to accept the driver's side tie rod end. The drag link was cut and threaded to acccept the adjusting sleeve from my Dana35 passenger side tie rod end, which I bolted up to my pitman arm. No mod required to pitman, less custom pieces.

Rick, as for price, I was quoting in Canadian $ which is like $0.60 on your dollar. Makes parts much more expensive...

 

[Rick]

I have Chevy Blazer steering knuckles with a fabbed steering arm. This allows the tie rod to be placed high up and out of harms way.

I'm also using the Explorer coil springs so no modifications to the coil buckets were needed. We started with the 5.5" Superlift springs, but those put me way to high we ended up with 4" Superlift springs.

 

[riffman]

what kind of caster adjustment is involved with the swap? does the swap even effect caster? also, what about driveshaft length?

i myself am currently considering the swap. now, if stick with my superlift coils up front (probably will) i will just have to jump the back end up a little. IE new springs, or blocks, right? I would kind of like to stick with my old leaf springs because i think they are broken down just enough to give me some great flex in the rear. hehe...so what would be the best way to do the rear?

 

[Rick]

The majority of your caster is built in when the axle ends are welded to the tubes. After that you can use cams to make minor adjustments just like we have on the TTB setup. With a 4 link setup with heim joints you can also adjust the caster by changing the length of the bars.

 

[tiessen]

Rick, I saw your steering and it's nice and high. Unfortunetaly, up here in Canuck land no welding of steering components allowed. I'm not sure what I will do.

My caster is great at my ride height. 2 degree C bushings at the axle, though I'm using 2-3" drop brackets at the rear of radius arms. The coils are a toss up. Use full size and modify the coil buckets or use stock size and modify the coil perches. I chose the first because I specifically wanted the JD coils because they are so nice, at the ride height is about .5-1" higher than the Superlift 5.5" coils.

 

[tiessen]

Rick, after looking at your steering setup with the Chevy knuckles I see that it's pretty much the same as I've seen done up here. It gets the tie rod on top and uses the flat space on top of the knuckle as a mounting point for the drag link. Very cool. Maybe in the future for me...

Cheers

Dale

 

[Kampy]

Originally posted by tiessen
I seen a couple of leaf setups and in my opinion, you'd be better to stick with the coils.

Dale, what problems did you notice with the leaf sprung axles? Poor fab work, poor articulation, poor design? Just curious. Thanks.

 

[tiessen]

Don't get me wrong, leaf spring setups can be very flexible (ie: long, thin leaf packs such as Ranger leafs). The fab work shouldn't be that hard but must include perches on axle, shackle mounts and rear leaf mounts. But when you already have coils pockets I don't see why you would want to move backwards in technology. Ie: see the evolution of the Wrangler from leafs to coils. Just my 2 cents...

Cheers

Dale