jmvb
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- September 19, 2015
- Messages
- 198
- Reaction score
- 5
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1998 Explorer XLT
I was changing the lower intake oring
Suddenly, a lower intake cap screw was bad... unluckily, the one further back
I did several manoeuvres to get lose it... one of them manoeuvres, was drill it..
When I was drilling, the drill slipped, and touch the wiring harness...
I taked a simple look of this, and all looks fine.
I changed the orings, reassembled all, and got the Anti Theft Light Flashing On Dash... No check engine light (even with the key in on) , engine does crank, but doesn't start...
Back to the harness, and 1 wire was cut, and a few others, only the cover damaged.
Welded the cutted one, insulated the damaged covers, and, check engine light is back, and Anti Theft Light Flashing...
My scanner tool was not able to connect with the vehicle, so I guess that the ECU do not have electric power
Checked this relay, changed it by another which take under the hood, and nothing
I got the 1:6 pattern... still some wire cutted?
EECV is the ECU, right?
Suddenly, a lower intake cap screw was bad... unluckily, the one further back
I did several manoeuvres to get lose it... one of them manoeuvres, was drill it..
When I was drilling, the drill slipped, and touch the wiring harness...
I taked a simple look of this, and all looks fine.
I changed the orings, reassembled all, and got the Anti Theft Light Flashing On Dash... No check engine light (even with the key in on) , engine does crank, but doesn't start...
Back to the harness, and 1 wire was cut, and a few others, only the cover damaged.
Welded the cutted one, insulated the damaged covers, and, check engine light is back, and Anti Theft Light Flashing...
My scanner tool was not able to connect with the vehicle, so I guess that the ECU do not have electric power
ok guys.. my turn to contribute.... I just went through this same problem with my 2000 explorer... damn anti theft light blinking, not starting.... after spending $350 at the local dealer and not fixing the problem I got mine fixed... It was a simple electronic relay switch. under hood, drivers side.. relay # FOAB-14B192-AA about 1"square relay..
repair relay part # listed as: FOAZ-14N089-A about $20 for the relay...
works perfect now.... what a headache.... perfectly maintained, but wouldn't start because of a faulty relay switch... needless to say the original $350 was money thrown away for nothing...
repair sheet states: NO START. THEFT LIGHT BLINKS RUN SELF TEST. NO COMMUNICATION WITH PCM. TEST PCM POWER & GROUND CIRCUITS. NO VOLTAGE PRESENT AT PCM CONNECTOR. PCM POWER RELAY STICKING, CAUSING NO START CONCERN. REPLACE PCM POWER RELAY, RUN SELF TEST AND REPAIRED VERIFIED...
hope this helps someone else and eliminates a great deal of unnecessary headaches..
good luck... shwpony2010bc
Checked this relay, changed it by another which take under the hood, and nothing
Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly...
Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code (sequence/pause/sequence)
Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to dealer.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to dealer.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key(s) using locksmith/dealer, or 2 keys of your own which work.
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV. Go to dealer.
I got the 1:6 pattern... still some wire cutted?
EECV is the ECU, right?