sound like a stuck caliper? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

sound like a stuck caliper?

master hasa rebuilt master for $50? Make sure you get the right one, 92 with rear abs only.

I would never buy a rebuilt master, only new for me, but thats just me I have had bad luck on many trucks with rebuilt ones. I like to do a job one time, especially when its important like brakes. :)
Calipers are $12 at autozone with lifetime warranty, $25 core charge :)
$50 for a caliper? YIKES!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





yea, but theres like a $40 core charge. i think it comes out to like$17 for the caliper. i trust napa parts more than i trust autozone parts. my current master cylinder is a Bendix. is this OEM? or has it been replaced before? if so, it should be pretty quality and would just flooring the pedal destroy it? i dont want to waqste any more time or money on this

EDIT - did you say lifetime warranty? maybe i shouldve gone to autozone after all(my calipers are only a month old!)
but then again, napa is 2 blocks away and theres this really hot girl workin the parts counter :smoke:
 






this whole thing is really starting to irk me! is there any way that maybe i didnt seat the rotor all the way on the spindle, and maybe thats why the caliper is stuck? or would the caliper compensate for this?
 






nother question:
if i had bottomed out my master cylinder, would there still be pressure when the car is off? thats whats happening to me - my calipers are stuck even though there should be no brake pressure.
 






Hmmm then yes I would look at the wheel bearings causing a clearance issue.

I trust Napa more too, but Autozone does have SOME good parts and their calipers have worked great for me...

Bendix is OEM
 






repacked wheel bearings - tigtenened them to the torque required,backed off 1/2 turn, tighjtened to the final torque. nothing. both calipers still stuck - one worse than before.
 






You repacked the bearings again? did you re-use the grease seal?

You said you installed new rotors, right? what about pads?
explain to me how hard it is to turn the tire when its all mounted up and still in the air.
Because it is not supossed to free wheel, there will be some resistance....the truck should roll forward when parked on a slight hill.
 






i didnt regrease the seal. i just kinda took it apart to try to reseat everything(the red grease had turned a little darker, i think as a result of the heat when i drove it for a block) one wheel wont turn at all. the other u can spin, but as soon as u stop pushing it - it stops.
no, i didnt install new pads. im using the old ones. if anything, they should be THINNER and allow the wheel to turn(i know you should use new pads with new rotors, but the pads are only a month old)

thanks for all your help 410. im just so lost with this.
 






You didnt re-grease the seal? I dont understand.

You replaced the rotors, correct? You used the bearing races that were pressed into the new rotor?

The races may NOT be seated all the way, or they may not match up to your bearings.
 






well i regreased the seal when i got the new rotor, but not when i took it off to reseat it. the seal is pounded as far as it will go into the back of the rotor(the seal is making contact with the back of the rotor and there is no gap between the seal and the rotor's material)
 






No silly its called a grease seal, I was not asking if you greased it.
hahaha

Okay lets start over.
The new rotors had new races in them already?
You installed your old rotor wheel bearings after cleaning and re-packing into the new rotors correct?
 






yep thats all correct. but by "greasing the seal" i meant i put some grease on the inside of the seal so there would be plenty in there(as it says to do in the haynes manual) i know the knuckle for the caliper sticks out to about halfway on the outside of the rotor. is this normal? if so, then i dont believe it is a bearing issue.
 






Hanyes tells you to put a little grease on the seal to help it fit in the rotor better, you can still stick grease in there with your finger.

You might have to check the new rotor to ensure the races are seated all the way in.

I have no idea what you mean by the knuckle for the caliper sticks out 1/2 way. Do you have a digital camera?
 






i dont have a camera. its in iowa :( i meant the the caliper slide gooves on the steering knuckle. they stick out to half the thickness of the outer rotor face (sorry i never was good with describing stuff) the seal is pressed in as far as it can possibly go(its in the same position as it was on the old rotor when i took it off. )
 






everything spins freely until you put the caliper on correct?
 






yep. even then, everything spins freely until i turn it on and put the brakes on. then i left off of the brakes and its still acting like i have my foot on the brake.
 






sounds like the master :) hahahaha all this to get back to that.
IF you get a new master/rebuilt whatever MAKE sure you get a warranty.
Also you can replace the bleeders on the rear drums, they just screw in.

Dont forget to BENCH bleed the new master before installing it...with your RABS you will also likely have to bleed the RABS valve before you bleed the rear brakes.

PITA I know, but to me it sounds like you have bottomed out the master, it is not allowing the pressure to release.....

There is one more thing to try however....put it in reverse get going about 10-15 and lock em up.
See if that helps, sometimes the master can re seat itself.
 






theres this really hot girl workin the parts counter
That's reason enough to buy from NAPA! :)

Jeff, when the caliper sticks, try loosening the bleeder valve slightly to relieve the pressure, then try to turn the wheel. If it immediately turns easier, then the caliper is OK, and the trouble is the line (holding pressure). Probably the master cylinder.

If you do change the MC, make sure the pushrod is adjusted to the correct length. If it's too long, that will cause the MC to hold pressure and give the symptoms you describe.
 






Hey those are great tips!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





just replaced the lines - STILL sticking!!! looks like im back to napa tomorrow :)/:( thanks for all your help guys - guess ill know the verdict tmo.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top