Spun rear axle housing.

[splodo49]

A useful thread. Just found it thought it will help someone.
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ford8_8/

 

[410Fortune]

Yup, the 8.8 weak spot.
Although it does take quite a beating, this is pretty common on spot welded tube to center section rears like our 8.8 from what I understand (never seen in person)

I believe Rock ranger welded his up to prevent this? Was it you Matt?

 

[splodo49]

Since i got the welder out i think ill go ahead and weld mine.Yeah ive thought about that but have never really heard too much about it. But its a extra couple mins to clean the steel and another min to weld it. I might as well weld my perches on also.

 

[nissanboy]

I saw it happen.... but it was on a Bronco with a big V8.

 

[RockRanger]

I believe Rock ranger welded his up to prevent this? Was it you Matt?

Nope I just welded the sypder gears. It will be getting swapped out for a locker when I swap in my explorer axle in the next few months.

I have heard of spinning an axle tube being a problem when you add an axle wrap bar to one side of the axle. I might give mine a few extra welds while I have the exle out getting new spring pads and shock mounts welded to it.

 

[splodo49]

So granted it is possible but pretty hard for a 4.0 liter to do this unless you have a doubler or atlas. Is sounds like you need a lot of torque to do this. Or really beat the crap out of your rig.

 

[nissanboy]

The way i look at it...

Why chance it? Take it to a welder and have him run 3 1" beads on either tube to add some extra strength. Most wont even charge you to run 3 bead on each side.

On the other hand you can take a chance, spin a housing, and have to find a whole new axle for a couple hundred dollars.

Your choice... Choose wisely. LOL

 

[DeRocha]

I recall reading/seeing a post somewhere that said Not to weld the tubes into the housing as pictured in the link. The post indicated normal flexing would eventually crack the welds and cause more problems down the road.

 

[splodo49]

Hey nissan boy i guess you didnt read this thread.(post #3). I was just saying its more likely with more torque. Hey Derocha. I dont really see why welding it and the tube flexin would really be such a problem. But the tube shouldnt be flexin that much or at all. For one you think it would start to wear and loosen inside the housing.

 

[nissanboy]

The tubes on all axles flex... but damn it's a small fraction of an inch, way less than 1/8". That isnt going to crack a weld. Further more even if the weld does crack what the heck does it matter? It is still held with the stock welds.

 

[410Fortune]

some of us have V8's hahaha and dont doubt the power of the 4.0L, it has plenty of torque to destroy an 8.8 under the right conditions.

 

[rookieshooter]

I saw it happen.... but it was on a Bronco with a big V8.

With that said, I think I'll add two more welds about an inch spaced equally from the one weld thats on axel truss. I thought the one at the tube/housing would be enough, better safe then sorry. I read about the axel flexing and is one of the reasons bearings fail. The artical mentioned an axel truss as helping this plus some other benefits. I don't know about welding all the way around. I'm sure if done wrong you would have to get the axel straightend out. I read a post about an 8.8 on this site that after welding he had to get a 12 ton jack and straighten it back out.

 

[Creager]

I'm sure if done wrong you would have to get the axel straightend out. I read a post about an 8.8 on this site that after welding he had to get a 12 ton jack and straighten it back out.

'

im kind of confused by that, do you have a link to that post? im interested on how that would happen...

 

[DeRocha]

When you weld metal together it generates alot of heat in small area. The excess heat in the surrounding area will cause the steel to move/bend warp as the metal goes from hot to cold. Making a jig to hold your parts in position will greatly reduce this posibility.

BTW This is sort of like how work workers can steam wood for several hours increasing its temperature (loosening up its molecules).. After which the wood can easily be bent into curves without breaking...

 

[rookieshooter]

When you weld metal together it generates alot of heat in small area. The excess heat in the surrounding area will cause the steel to move/bend warp as the metal goes from hot to cold. Making a jig to hold your parts in position will greatly reduce this posibility.

BTW This is sort of like how work workers can steam wood for several hours increasing its temperature (loosening up its molecules).. After which the wood can easily be bent into curves without breaking...

Exactly right. I was helping my friend box in his 41 Willys frame and we made a jig because the first one we did the frame started twisting. We even welded temporary supports frome side to side that were grinded off later. This really helped also. When we were done this time the frame was the exact diminsions before we started.



Above and below is the jig/fixture I built out of a chunk of "I"-beam. With center pucks and lineup bar installed. When I was sure everything was aligned, I welded the new tubes to the F8.8 tubes, inside and out. The housing was straightened with a 12 ton bottle jack when all welding was completed.

This is what it said about the 12 ton Jack. Now this was a highly mod. rear, but still it had the welds all the way around inside and out. I heard also that this is how they get the arch in those flatbed trailers. They put a series of welds that bow the metal. Don't know how true that is?

This was on 410s thread about the 8.8

Just added: On many racing rears that have been Mod. it's a normal thing to straighten them back out. This was done on some of mine.

 

[Creager]

oh yeah that make plenty of sense, but what if you were to weld the diff with it mounted to the truck, could that work as the jig? or would i still need some kind of center support to keep the diff from warping? i guess thats where the 12 ton jack comes into play

 

[splodo49]

Well also the "pull" factor comes in to play here. So thats why you always "tack" everything your doing all the way around whatever your welding to keep it from pulling. If I was to weld my tube I would not run one or even a couple hot long beads. I would do short spurts for one to keep the axle temp down, also which makes the "pull" factor less or no existent especially if you tacked it right.

 

[rookieshooter]

Well also the "pull" factor comes in to play here. So thats why you always "tack" everything your doing all the way around whatever your welding to keep it from pulling. If I was to weld my tube I would not run one or even a couple hot long beads. I would do short spurts for one to keep the axle temp down, also which makes the "pull" factor less or no existent especially if you tacked it right.

Very well said, and this is exactly how I will add extra welds to my 8.8 I want to do some research on how the pros make sure the axel housing is straight. I was never there when they did it. I would think even if its a few thousands on way or the other that the axel is not true and putting a tremendous strain on the bearings.

http://www.partspeddlernews.net/

I am planning to go to this trade show so I can talk to some of the leading manufactures of fabricating machinery. I talked to one Co. that has some good used stuff that my friend and I might just get. Tubing benders and such. This Co. leases fab. equip to many NASCAR teams like Jack Roush Racing. But the main stay is the small guy and they said their willing to talk to us. But time will tell. Will check out equipment to straighten axels

Nice Model Uh!!

 

[Jefe]

Don't forget that the housing is cast so special procedures should be followed welding the housing to the axle tubes. I imagine that is why some end up with welds cracking.

 

[rookieshooter]

Don't forget that the housing is cast so special procedures should be followed welding the housing to the axle tubes. I imagine that is why some end up with welds cracking.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/castironpreheat.asp

Right, I use nickel rod and preheat the cast. Tha above link is informative about welding cast iron. And is a good source of info for a lot of welding. It is put out by Lincoln Electric.