Stalling issues on my 91 Eddie B | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Stalling issues on my 91 Eddie B

L.A.X

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 18, 2013
Messages
405
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3
City, State
Los Angeles, Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer EB
Earlier this year my truck was stalling randomly and I thought I figured it out. It turned out to be two wires that were bad. The wires run from the ground cable post to somewhere in the firewall. I cut out the bad connection and just taped the wires together. My truck is suffering the same issues again. I believe its the same wires. I am attaching pics since I need to know where these wires go and if the can be replaced.
 



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IMAG0358.jpg
 












The thick black wire goes to engine block, correct? One black wire goes to inside fender next to solenoid. Do you see the two other black wires that I put together with electric tape? There was a connection where the tape is but I had to cut it out since it was corroded of battery acid and green. Would a bad ground stall the truck?
 






I don't think a bad ground would stall the truck, the alternator should supply the power. It's not good but it "should" "work" like that.

Unfortunately, my Chilton doesn't say where those wires go. I just replaced my battery cables too and was wondering where that little bugger goes. It could be a dedicated ground for the EEC (or EEC relay) maybe? If your computer is losing power then that will definitely kill your engine, being EDIS and fuel injected.

I see your positive cable looks to be factory/Motorcraft. Did you ever replace them or just put a new terminal on the negative one? If the cables are factory, a great place to start would be new cables. Mine were factory and I took pictures of the severe heating & corrosion they had:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3309529&postcount=75
 






I believe those two wires are ECM/PCM ground. If I start the truck and disconnect those wires, the truck dies.
 






What I would do then is run a wire from those two wires straight to the battery terminal, bypass the (factory?) cable & clamp. I'm betting you have bad battery cables. It couldn't be a short in those two wires, it would just ground out the ground. If anything, it would make a better connection.
 






What I would do then is run a wire from those two wires straight to the battery terminal, bypass the (factory?) cable & clamp. I'm betting you have bad battery cables. It couldn't be a short in those two wires, it would just ground out the ground. If anything, it would make a better connection.

I ordered the cable both positive and negative. Now I'm trying to find out if I can replace the cable or wires that go from the PCM to the negative cable connection
 






Good luck :)

Replacing the battery cables isn't that horrible. The toughest part for me was the bolt on the engine for the negative cable. There's a bracket that holds both cables and clamps the cable to the block. The positive one was actually pretty easy. I spent the most time under the engine (from the front) and on the passenger side front wheel. I'm a real novice so if I can do it, anybody can. Just be sure to have plenty of dielectric grease and a wire brush.
 






Did you wire brush all the grounding points & battery terminals, use dielectric grease and snug everything down?

I'm ashamed to say but despite learning a ton of info on here, I still don't know where the ECM is. Maybe see about tracing that grounding wire and see if there's a break in it?
 












Hope you didn't sell both of those ignition modules.

Sounds like a fried EDIS to me.
 






Hope you didn't sell both of those ignition modules.

Sounds like a fried EDIS to me.

No, I still have them. The sporadic stalling sucks because its hard diagnosing the problem. Damn Explorer gremlins
 






Are there any codes? Also, when (under what conditions) does it stall? I did read that it's random, but is there any similarity to when it stalls? Does it start back up immediately or do you have to wait?
I've read elsewhere that the original computer modules are failure prone after some years of use due to the electrolytic capacitors drying out. I've run into that issue with a lot of electronic equipment over the years, so if both modules are old they may have the same issue. (I'm looking for a couple of old ones to refurbish and use as spares.)
 






Are there any codes? Also, when (under what conditions) does it stall? I did read that it's random, but is there any similarity to when it stalls? Does it start back up immediately or do you have to wait?
I've read elsewhere that the original computer modules are failure prone after some years of use due to the electrolytic capacitors drying out. I've run into that issue with a lot of electronic equipment over the years, so if both modules are old they may have the same issue. (I'm looking for a couple of old ones to refurbish and use as spares.)

Truck will run good for awhile then starts sputtering and fails. Will fire up again after a few minutes then sputter and die. Never does this while cold. If I drive it around the block, no issues. Now if I drive it a few miles, forget it. Then its drive a block, stall, drive another block, stall....Starts acting up once its withing normal operating temperature. Has new plugs, wires, coil pack, crankshaft position sensor, battery cables and recently passed smog check here in California. There are no stored codes. Fuel pump is good and fuel filter is good also.
 






Go over EVERY wiring harness and check EACH connector.

My 91 did something similar but was a no start issue. Found one loose wire in the main harness. Tedious work but is possible.
 






Truck just left me stranded. Has everyone ever replaced the main wiring harness? Where can I purchase
 






Since it's apparently related to either heat or driving time, I have a suggestion: uncover the computer module and have a can of cold spray (or canned air, etc.) handy the next time it stalls. Use that to cool the module and see if it starts. I'm having a problem believing it's a bad wiring connection because - in my experience - they happen more often when cold than when hot.
 






Ive been moving around the wires to the pcm ground and playing musical chairs with the relays. Got it to start. I've recently replaced all three relays so it has to be a wiring problem
 



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