I think once you purchase the pro racer package, the tweaking never stops. Its rewarding to get great results.
You have a link to the copper gaskets? ?Well, here's what I'm looking at aquiring for the build and current pricing for most of it:
Timing Chain kit. $60 Parts store
Custom SCE Copper Head Gaskets. ~$200
Intake Gaskets. $50
Melling M328 oil pump. $139.99 Amazon.
Smith Bros Rods. ~$200.
Sealed Power Valve Rockers. $137.88. Amazon. R-1092
ARP Rod Bolts. $120. Morana
ARP Head Studs. $360. Morana
Pistons Forged Aluminum. $875. Super6
Clevite Rod Bearings. $36.99 Summit. 6-3055cp
Clevite Main Bearings. $69.97 Summit. Ms2006p
SI valves SEV2027 and 2028. ~$130
Aluminum 3 core radiator. ~$300. Summit
Oil and Coolant. ~$60.
Comp Cam 49-410-8. $268 Amazon
Sealed Power 170lb valve Springs. $40.08 Rock Auto
Water pump and heads are only 3yrs old so their probably OK thus bringing the engine build cost to about ~$3050.00. Of course this is not factoring potential trans/t-case replacement or the engine hoist/rotating rack I will be buying to do the entire project. Spread out over a year or more and accepting that prices will fluctuate and there's things not listed which I will buy...it won't be so bad. IF I were to do the bottom end at a later time it would bring the top end build alone to ~$1800.00
[MENTION=91966]jd4242[/MENTION], Thanks for the input there. That's some good stuff I overlooked off the bat. Why do you recommend the 422 over the 410 in my case? The 410 is supposed to be better for low and mid, 422 mid and high I thought... My focus is low and mid for my usual purposes and my impeller goes out of the ideal efficiency above 4500 unless I raise the boost level. The copper gaskets would be a special order thing. I'd probably have to send them a gasket set to use as a template.
The 422 makes much more power and the power band difference is like 100 rpms difference. .ive had both and trust me you dont notice any difference in when the power comes in but your notice much more with the 422.they are pretty much the same cam but the 422 is 500/500.its also the same price.
Gotcha on the gaskets. Im having a set made right now so if you do ever get to that point let me know and i can probably have a set made quickly for you,they will have mine on file..remember the block with need a grove and oring
It is very minimal and where the difference is,is so low in rpms that it really doesnt make a difference. You dont spend but a millasec there.plus i have a feeling once you get the rebuilt motor in your wanna turn up boost or atleast have the capability to turn it up and gain ALOT mid to top rpms..you dont really want to turn that motor past 6k anyways unless you go roller rocker and lightweight pistons..Makes sense then if the rpm range is that minimal of a difference. I may take you up on the gasket offer if I can't get the place I'm looking into to do it. If I have to get the spring cups machined than It doesn't hurt to get the ring grooves done too.
The place I'm looking into offers a version that, like you say would require an o-ring, another that uses a built in seal kind of like the OEM and then a third that requires using a head specific sealant.
What bronze guides, brand/measurements are people using?
I'm also thinking it will be easier to spend the extra up front to get bare head castings and build them as I go, off the truck so I dont have the motor fully dis-assembled and have to build the heads, I can just swap them out. Then I can either, build the currents as spares, sell them as low mile stockers, build and sell them or just keep them to swap out all the goodies if I crack one.
I honestly dont know..my machinist takes care of that always and yours may want to do it differently. .two of my first motors i built went bad because we didnt catch that or think about it[MENTION=91966]jd4242[/MENTION] http://www.jegs.com/i/Dart/301/6312...9&cadevice=m&gclid=CICm3tvR-ssCFU6SfgodB5EKXg think those may work? You're right about the boost I will try to bump it up over 10. I want to build the heck out of it so I have the ability to. Thank you for the info on the valves. I'm taking notes as this area I think I'm lacking the most knowledge in.
[MENTION=102869]Dono[/MENTION] The radiator is made by frost bite there's a few versions and one has the right plumbing.
So I will be doing the 422 cam. I've got an RFI in to promaxx performance which was previously Alabama cylinder heads. I'm probably going to get a set of their bare, thicker cast heads to build. I also looked at the sets of stage 3 heads that would run me close to the same as my build without a lot of the parts....they have larger stainless valves with stock guides. Even on the stage 3 heads.. good thing to note since experienced members on this board have had multiple engines fail. Contributing factor being ss valves w/o bronze guides. Point is why spend big money on something incomplete that will fail...the build moves on. I'll probably buy the heads or the cam/springs next month depending things shake out the next few weeks.
Ive talked to Tom about that,he said "it will be fine guy,if they need it we will put them in"" i dont know what that exactly means..he also wont tell me what size the valves are,just oversized
Yeah that's kinda vague. May explain why the 5 or 6 questions I asked went unanswered. For the price of them from him, super 6 or anywhere else I'd expect more. But its fine building them will get better results for less.