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Teds Shed Build Thread

I also got the hubs together. I'm pleased with the amount of stick out the wheel studs have. I also upgraded from the Chevy 7/16" studs to half, for a little more beef. Personally, I like open lug nuts, so I can see the stud threads. I wanted them to protrude, but not a lot, and these are perfect.

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I like my lug nuts open also.
The other benefit is the chrome doesn't flake off and leave a rusty mess.
I'd coat those wheels.
 






The new chrome powders looks pretty legit.
 






Mothers aluminum polish will make those wheels look like chrome. I polish my semi truck wheels and fuel tanks with it.
 






I'd coat those wheels.
I hadn't thought about that, but now, I'm looking at powders. I'm thinking about it for the summer rims, but not for these one's in the latest pictures. They are just winter beater rims.
Mothers aluminum polish will make those wheels look like chrome. I polish my semi truck wheels and fuel tanks with it.
I use Mothers, but I'm not getting the mirror finish. What tools exactly do you use to buff it?
 






You sure you don’t want to run some 4” spikes on those lug nuts?

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With so many directions one can build something, I'm not ruling out anything. Can't see the threads though. (LOL) A B2 with semi rims would be something:laugh:
 


















I use Mothers, but I'm not getting the mirror finish. What tools exactly do you use to buff it?
Polishing pads for an angle grinder and one that looks like a hair net that goes over a rubber pad underneath. I do the recessed areas by hand.

Those lug nut covers will mess up a car door. They're plastic but that plastic will win vs a new car. Someone in California was driving on the shoulder and ran into one of my trucks that had lug nut covers, the car door got dented in.
 






The nice think about a good powder coat finish on winter wheels is that they don't corrode and turn nasty. I've had great luck with custom powder coated wheels. Request the primer coat with a top coat. You've seen how wheel mine have held up. And I don't really wash my stuff very often. Couple times a year maybe.
 






Thanks, Josh, and no, I'm not going to get lug nut covers.

Scott, I'll have to talk to your dad when he's back. You bring up some good points, and I'm not real great about maintaining cosmetic stuff either.
 






My spiked lug nuts are all Metal? No covers hahaha
I run them on the FJ and excursion because they look cool hahaha and you won’t be stealing those wheels unless you have the 6” deep socket they come with

Bronco ii for the win
My kid made me a hoodie with that picture on it! Good son

The McNeil rear bedsides man… the wheel arch really needs to be centered better over the axle and larger to fit the big tires. … to help I’m moving my back axle rearward 2”

little disappointed with them although I do love the wide body look they are awkward on a bii. My plan is to actually modify a ranger bed to fit my bii cab when I chop/ cage it and then I can pull the metal bedsides ;)

Here’s a good pic she’s in uniform

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Post 256 here is where I finally fixed my ripped floor pans lol
 






Thank you for the link to your post. The little metal rectangles (bandaids) is what I'm thinking I will have to do. I am not at that point, and need to pull the carpet, but I don't know if the split can be pulled back together or not. I'll definitely show whatever I do when I get to that point.
 






I trimmed my rear disc brake shields. I'm kind of on the fence about it, but if I hate it, I'll grab another set at the junkyard.

Really, though, I had to get going on my broke down truck. I ordered new tank senders, switching valve, and filters. Hopefully this is what it needs. The rear tank "shower head" was stuck to the bottom of the tank, and I had to pop it loose with a screwdriver.

One of the good things about my flatbed is that it's easy to take it apart, which made accessing the tanks quick.

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The switcher valve you ordered, is it a Dorman? They often don’t match the factory fuel lines and fittings so it requires a ton of doing to install… I found that the factory switcher valve usually just has a small piece of debris stuck in it and tapping on it while cycling the switch usually frees it up
They are spring loaded to default to the rear tank just fyi
I put 38 gallon tanks in my trucks when it’s time to replace the back one
 






That's a whole story. I ordered one from AutoZone, and when I pulled it out of the box, the ports don't match the semi-hard lines. I took the Ford one and the AutoZone one back, and we spent probably 25 minutes trying to find a correct one. I'm pretty sure it's a dorman. It's supposed to be here tomorrow.

I seriously thought about a single 38 gal tank, but I have my spare under the rear, and didn't want to deal with a spare being constantly in the way, so I decided to just keep the dual tanks. Regarding the switching valve, I think something got in it, and caused it to partly block fuel delivery. I have an electric fuel pump, and I can fill the system, but it runs out of fuel in about a minute, so it flows, but not enough. My plan is new senders, shower heads, switching valve, blow out the lines, and new filters in both the pump, and on the engine. When I redid the truck, this is about the only thing mechanically that I didn't redo, so I figure it deserves it.
 






Shoot
I figured the flatbed was fixed.
I'd put a super duty mid-ship tank in it. I don't know if it works on the super cabs like it does on the crew cabs though.
 



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No, I was a little bummed that it broke down, I wanted to work on the bronco, and I had to wait for parts to show up, so it's just been sitting.

My Dutchman shafts are supposed to be done Tuesday, so then I can put the rear axle together and throw on those 2 rims I polished. That'll make it easier to move it around. It's been in my way...
 






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