Tell me the best way to fix my problem. Money is of no concern. (Electrical Issues)

[jrowe6]

oh yea voltage drop.

run 0 gauge wires front to back. do the big 3 with 0 gauge wires too. that will help quite a bit.

and if you want to help voltage drop and increase your power capacity when the car is not running you can put batteries in the truck right by your amps. with a system that big you will need more than 1 battery to run the system at full volume without the engine running.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

what happened to money is of no concern

I don't mind spending money... I'm just wanting to make sure I'm not going to spend 350 dollars on a high output alternator, and in 4 months be at the same spot I'm at. I'm wanting to build this system right this time, no shortcuts... at least if I can help it.

do the big 3 with 0 gauge wires too. that will help quite a bit.

Was going to do it tomorrow before my schedule at work changed... probably tear into it on Sunday when I'm off... at least get that part done.

if you want to help voltage drop and increase your power capacity when the car is not running

I've never run my system with the engine off. I'm to scared of getting a dead battery and no one to jump me.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Oh, my power supply is 4 gauge wire on an 80 amp fuse if that helps.

In case you didn't read the very first post... my plans include:
4 Subwoofers - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-n8sWYeFiuFM/p_2067C12VR4/Kicker-CompVR-07CVR124.html
2 Amps - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jJbZOd...00S.html?tab=detailed_info#Inputs and Outputs

Please note on the amplifier webpage, the ratings are for RMS wattage only, they don't have maximum wattage... my estimate is that like most other amps, the max wattage is double the rms. If I'm incorrect by all means correct me.

I'm leaning towards an Iraggi 220 or 260 amp alternator... but if I do the math I'm still short power... 260 amps at 14.4 volts (give or take) is around 3,744... if I install a system capable of drawing 3,700 watts... you see my concerns.

I understand about amplifiers not being able to draw more than what the fuses allow, but I'm going strictly by the math. I know power supply's are just that... supplys. But I feel a lot more comfortable going by output of alternator vs. output of amps. I'd rather have more breathing room than not enough if that makes sense. I'm not trying to be difficult on purpose :-D

Edit:

Basically if I could install dual alternators or find a 300 amp alternator I'd quit my *****ing. I just wish I could move the power steering fluid reservoir, I'd delete my A/C, make a bracket to hold another alternator and call it done.

 

[jrowe6]

I've never run my system with the engine off. I'm to scared of getting a dead battery and no one to jump me.

i hear ya. lol

if you get deep cycle batteries they can be drained a heck of alot more than normal ones and still have enough reserve capacity to start up the engine.

if you dont plan to run the system without then engine on dont worry about it. just get a good alt.

i dont know how much those high output alts run for. like i said there is a whole thread dedicated to that topic, i was lookin at it the other day.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177517

if you are going to be pumping out big wattages you need a serious alt. no two ways about it man. there is no shortcut for power. you either have enough or you dont. the wires will cut down on losses and resistance/voltage drop. but if you want more amps you got to make more amps!

the plus side of this is, if you buy a good high output alt you will probably never have to replace it again. and if they give a warranty you will atleast never have to pay for a new one again.

 

[jrowe6]

well i didnt see that most recent post of yours till i posted my own.

you are talking about doing the math. totally forget the max output watts. its irrelevant.

4 subs, each getting 350 rms, is a total of 1400 rms. each of those amps has a 60 amp fuse, so they are limited to a 60amp input rate no matter the output. there, 120 amps.

lets say you add a third amp for your doors. another maximum of 60 amps. youre up to 180 amps.

get the 260 amp high output alt. run 0 gauge wires with a 250 amp fuse

 

[jrowe6]

as for the amp, i would suggest you get a 1600rms mono amp. if you series each sub to 8 ohms then run them all in parallel you get a 2 ohm load. its perfect. and the mono amp will probably be more efficient meaning less current draw.

you could also run dual 2 ohm subs and series each sub then parallel them all and get a 1 ohm load. you would probably save some $$ on the amp if you found one that could run 1600rms at 1 ohm.

probably cheaper yet to run dual 800 rms amps.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Well the amps put out 700 watts rms... so I'll have dual 700 rms amps...

The one amp I currently have installed has an 80 amp fused power supply. Could that be some of my problem? Could the amp be drawing more power than it was designed for?

Trust me, I'm getting a high output alternator. I know that for sure. Still just doing research, trying to find the best deal I can. I'm probably going to go with Iraggi though, that's who Steve Meade uses. Plus I can pay an extra 100 dollars down the line for a lifetime warranty and free swapout if they go bad (I'd just have to pay shipping). Just got to wait and get that money saved up.

 

[Millertime1987]

Read through the posts. Did you check if there is any exposed wires going to the amp or subs? There could be a short somewhere.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I was having a little trouble with the remote wire at one point and at that time I went through and checked all cabling and they were all intact. This was about 1.5 months ago.

I'm removing my subwoofers and amps temporarily. I'm going to start saving for the high output alternators and batteries and start doing the wiring within the next few days. I'm going to go with 3 batteries I think. The battery in the engine bay and 2 others in the back. Wire each amp to it's own battery to spread the load out.

I've looked at pricing, and I think I'm going to go with Yellow Top Optimas in the rear. Any reason I shouldn't?

 

[HCCA 250]

I was having a little trouble with the remote wire at one point and at that time I went through and checked all cabling and they were all intact. This was about 1.5 months ago.

I'm removing my subwoofers and amps temporarily. I'm going to start saving for the high output alternators and batteries and start doing the wiring within the next few days. I'm going to go with 3 batteries I think. The battery in the engine bay and 2 others in the back. Wire each amp to it's own battery to spread the load out.

I've looked at pricing, and I think I'm going to go with Yellow Top Optimas in the rear. Any reason I shouldn't?

I believe jrowe6 already answered that. Adding more batteries will NOT help your alternator problem. You can play longer without the engine running, but if you are already short on alt power, you will be even further behind after adding more batteries for the alt to charge.

I am running over 2600W/RMS power. I have ONE ...ONE battery....an Odyysey 1750. The alternator is a DC Power 230 amp alt. The power to the stereo system is FROM the alt. But, if the alt can't keep up, now....more batteries will just make the problem worse. Each battery will draw power from the charging system to keep them charged. That means your 130 amp alt will only have less than 100 amps available to the stereo. And, that's not considering power windows, power seats, air conditioning, headlights, etc....

 

[agonz91]

I was having a little trouble with the remote wire at one point and at that time I went through and checked all cabling and they were all intact. This was about 1.5 months ago.

I'm removing my subwoofers and amps temporarily. I'm going to start saving for the high output alternators and batteries and start doing the wiring within the next few days. I'm going to go with 3 batteries I think. The battery in the engine bay and 2 others in the back. Wire each amp to it's own battery to spread the load out.

I've looked at pricing, and I think I'm going to go with Yellow Top Optimas in the rear. Any reason I shouldn't?

Yellow tops are ok. But for the money id get some shuriken. There's other brands out there that are a lot better for the same price. And I've got 3 big batts and stock alt :/ and my volts are beautiful but I play my system for 1-2hrs a day. So I never over work it. But one good batt and a better alt will give u more than enough power.

 

[jrowe6]

i would suggest a capacitor over a second battery.

if its going to be a while before you get the money for your new alt i would suggest an overdrive pully for your current alt. it will make your alt produce more power at lower rpms so your average amperage will be higher. so at idle and at lower rpms you will be putting out a higher % of the alts maximum output. i dont think it will increase the alts maximum output, it will just give you the max sooner. those pullys shouldnt be too expensive.

back to amps for a second. there are classifications of amplifiers. A, B, AB, D. you want a class D amplifier.

check out this page and scroll down to the part where they talk about amp classification.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2399281#post2399281

there is a real reason for this and it will make a massive difference in how your system behaves. you need to use the proper equiptment to get the best results.

 

[grant00]

i believe that link is for this thread...

 

[jrowe6]

oh crap...lol

here is the correct link.....

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-xyYGCBDFzFR/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_glossary.html

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Well at least he didn't post up a **** link lol.

I all ready have the amps I want... I really don't want to spend even more money on amps when I have them all ready... but I'll post the ones I have on craigslist and see about using that money for a single Class D... Ugh. I dont' really want to switch but if that'll be the best thing for me I'll do that. Maybe even get two smaller Class D's to replace these ones.

 

[Gadget X]

I would tend to agree with Jrowe6. You need a capacitor in that system. That will act as a "buffer" to keep the amp fed a consistent amount of power. It will help to "smooth" things out, so to speak. Just be sure to get one that's adequately sized for your power needs.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Well wouldn't upgrading my alternator and installing an extra battery do the same thing the capacitor would? Or am I mistaken?

I'm just thinking that getting a high output alternator, and installing another battery (for audio applications, not just a regular one) will help the amp have a consistent source...

Would I be wise to get a capacitor AND batteries AND a high output alternator? Or would that be to much? I am keeping in mind that installing to many "power sources" for one alternator to keep charged is bad as not having enough... if that makes sense.

I'm still mulling over options, and I do appreciate the advice everyone is giving. I really do. Now I have another question/option I had considered:

My subs can be wired in 2 ohm loads, and that's what I was planning on. Would power consumption be lowered if I wired them all in 4 ohms? Basically would wiring the four subwoofers to a 4 ohm load each help my problem? Or would the amp still be pulling the same amount of power?

 

[JarvisB]

250A Alternator from Mechman, 0 gauge wiring, and big 3 will do you good. Yeah it is probably a 400 dollar upgrade but very well worth it.

I am running 2500w rms off kicker zx2500.1 and my voltage never once goes into 12's. I got stinger volt meter in my explorer. I float at lower 14, high 13s at 45/50 volume. agt full tilt my electrical stays at 13.3 to 13.5 depending which song it is you know.

 

[HCCA 250]

The alternator MAKES the power. The battery STORES the power. A capacitor, stores a smaller amount of power than the battery, but releases that power MUCH faster than the battery. When your headlights blink, it's because the stereo has called for more power than the alt can deliver, and the system is falling back on the battery. The Cap is like a shock absorber. Just be sure that you get 1 farad of capacitance per 1000 watts of amp power. Also, do NOT get the batt caps, or larger 25-100 farad carbon caps. Your BEST bet is to get single 1 farad electrolytic caps, and bridge them together. They have lower internal resistace. If their internal resistance is not lower than your battery, you gain nothing. But, the nice thing is that when you run caps in parallel, their internal resistance goes down.

 

[jrowe6]

^^ exactly. a cap will discharge directly into the amps with more than enough power to keep them topped off. a battery simply cannot discharge fast enough to meet the demands of the amplifier.



as for your amps and subs:

you want to run the lowest resistance the amp is capable of. that gets you the most power out of your amp. if you up your resistance you may as well have bought a smaller amp and a cheaper sub. you have to match everything up properly to get the performance you paid for.

what amps do you have?

as for changing the ohms. what subs do you have? are they dual voice coil? if so dual 2 ohm coils or dual 4 ohms coils?