The Fastest N/A 4.0 Explorer

[rocket 5979]

What dyno facility did you use for the testing?

Thats not Spindle's dyno sheet, it is his friends Sport trac's sheet but with similar mods.

 

[spindlecone]

Will be off to the dyno store next week after 3 major mods since my last run.
Shop has always recorded in 4th on mine, 1 to 1 tranny ratio.
will post them when I get them

 

[aldive]

Will be off to the dyno store next week after 3 major mods since my last run.
Shop has always recorded in 4th on mine, 1 to 1 tranny ratio.
will post them when I get them

What mods are these?

 

[spindlecone]

What mods are these?

Ported T.B, UD, and diff exhaust

 

[au01st]

Hey Bill, thought I recognized your ST there. I just joined up here. For those lookin for 1/4 times on a N/A Explorer, my Sport Trac ran a 15.529 at FFW last year. I've got a few more mods planned for the summer before I head back to the track. I'm hoping to supercharge next summer. As of my last dyno, 198.8 RWHP, locked in 4th. I recently installed a custom bored throttle body, will be pickin up the UDP in about a month, and have a few other exhaust mods planned.

 

[spindlecone]

Nice trac, great numbers, go for it

 

[BeauJ]

I know why the lines aren't corresponding! The damn idiots used the type of graph that plots the left side with horsepower numbers and the right with torque! That is an old way to graph the numbers, and is exactly why the sheet doesn't appear to be correct. I still wonder why the dyno sheet started at 4,000 or so RPMs and had such a high spike there. Unless it was where the truck shifted to 4th gear at? Man that sucks, as tuners they should have temporarily locked Spindle's 4th gear so that he could dyno with 4th without the tranny downshifting to 3rd once he floored it in 4th. It sure is fun figuring out why dyno sheets go the way they do! Either way that graphing method is the prime example why most tuners have switched to the method that plots torque and rpm on the same graph with matching index numbers on both sides for both measurements. It leads to less confusion.

Spindle's actual numbers, not counting the torque flare that most likely happened during the tranny shift, are around 220 rwhp and 190 rwtq. I would get more accurate but the picture of the sheet was from too far away so I couldn't line the numbers and lines up too precisely. Still not too bad for a V6!

Correct! I could have swore it was the type of dyno that they talked about, but it was a HUGE conversation about why the graph wasn't crossing at 5252..

 

[AiwaExplorer]

great timeshot slip 15.5 I like that.....I gotta shave .2 of s econd to catch ya.....but with your reaction time....Imma see top end long before you do....even on a heads up pass!

 

[rocket 5979]

great timeshot slip 15.5 I like that.....I gotta shave .2 of s econd to catch ya.....but with your reaction time....Imma see top end long before you do....even on a heads up pass!

Hehehe, yeah he was a little asleep at the wheel on that one. Sometimes it takes a little getting used to racing another car again. Whenever I switch from racing my Explorer to the LS I got to totally change how I stage and race. Sometimes a minor brainfart slips in there and I gas the Explorer off the line like I would the LS. Bad idea!

Lets hope that for au01st it was just a brainfart day.

 

[au01st]

It was my first time racing on a pro tree after a whole 2 practice runs the day before.

 

[AiwaExplorer]

I love pro tree....thats what we race here....I am 2nd in pts....and IM averagign a .009 R/t on the pro tree.....next time deep stage....u'll get out alot better!

 

[rocket 5979]

I love pro tree....thats what we race here....I am 2nd in pts....and IM averagign a .009 R/t on the pro tree.....next time deep stage....u'll get out alot better!

While deep staging may allow you to get smaller R/T's it also leads to worse 60' and worse 1/4 mile ET's. I try to shallow stage as much as possible and make up the difference by launching a hair sooner. That lets me get as much jump as possible before I roll out of the second set of lights, activating the timers, and it also lets me get a pretty decent R/T as well. Best of both worlds.

 

[AiwaExplorer]

Did some more tweaking and Laid down a new low pass

time slip looks like this.....copier is broken.....I will get it soon tho!


60' 2.224
330' 6.411
660' 9.886
mph 70.49
1000' 12.894
1/4 15.443
mph 87.85

 

[Jakee]

Does a steep downhill 1/4 mile track count?

 

[AiwaExplorer]

haha...no but that would prolly help some of us!

 

[au01st]

Since my 15.5 run, I have added a new MAFS, throttle body, new plugs and wires, and I'll have some u/d pulleys on. I'll also have nitrous, but I'm planning on doing some n/a runs as well when I'm at the track.

 

[AiwaExplorer]

ok runs with nitrous do not count but keep us posted....i as well have just ported my TB, taylor wires, new plugs, switched to all AMS oil lubricants, Got a dyno tune....and got some things changed....should have new results posted saturday

 

[Jakee]

I'll be in here soon. You guys better do your homework!

 

[Turdle]

You should shave all the weight you can
40 lbs or more removing the skid plates from gas tank and T/C
you don't need tose on highway.

Also, 40 more removing the sound deadening material under carpet.

Id remove inner fenders, console, and rear seats also for the track runs.


I wonder if they would let you run with the rear hatch removed ( safety net?)

Anyway, putting the truck on a diet is free horsepower.

 

[Jakee]

You should shave all the weight you can
40 lbs or more removing the skid plates from gas tank and T/C
you don't need tose on highway.

Also, 40 more removing the sound deadening material under carpet.

Id remove inner fenders, console, and rear seats also for the track runs.


I wonder if they would let you run with the rear hatch removed ( safety net?)

Anyway, putting the truck on a diet is free horsepower.

Good advice as long as you don't off-road. I've removed the stock nerf bars (Although I really don't like the look without them) and the front tow hooks.

I want to keep the sound okay inside so I'll probably go with dynomat and maybe some lighter weight carpet. Maybe delete the back seat from time to time. Also, relocate the battery over the right rear wheel might help traction as long as it's done right. Another thing (don't try this at home or on the streets) you can remove the front sway bar for more traction help. Just don't leave it off and be careful!